Jamiejimbob Posted May 21, 2016 Report Posted May 21, 2016 That's a nice truck! I'm also in the UK and have just received my 45 last Friday. Keep the updates and pics coming. Quote
TomP Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Posted May 22, 2016 That's a nice truck! I'm also in the UK and have just received my 45 last Friday. Keep the updates and pics coming. Hi Jamie, I'm in North Devon where a bouts are you. Quote
Jamiejimbob Posted May 22, 2016 Report Posted May 22, 2016 Hi Jamie, I'm in North Devon where a bouts are you. Unfortunately nowhere near you I live in Staffordshire! Still a bit closer than the USA though! 1 Quote
TomP Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Posted March 15, 2017 On 12/13/2015 at 6:41 PM, Young Ed said: The trucks don't have a frame crossmember there. The bellhousing is somewhat extended and goes basically side to side within the frame. The clutch and brake pedals both attach to the bellhousing. The master cylinder does too on the front side. I'll post a couple pictures of my truck that will hopefully make more sense than my explanation. Ed can you put me right on the bell housing on this other trans we spoke about sometime back, had a closer look and I think from your photo this one in the UK is right hand drive, If I'm correct the shaft that operates the thrust bearing is on the R/H side. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 15, 2017 Report Posted March 15, 2017 3 hours ago, TomP said: Ed can you put me right on the bell housing on this other trans we spoke about sometime back, had a closer look and I think from your photo this one in the UK is right hand drive, If I'm correct the shaft that operates the thrust bearing is on the R/H side. If I remember correctly the shaft goes all the way through. The pedals just go on the part that sticks out. The non pedal side is supported in the hole and just sits flush to the outside. Quote
TomP Posted March 16, 2017 Author Report Posted March 16, 2017 Your right Ed but it sticks out on th wrong side ie must be a RHD bell housing, so I've either got to find a left hand housing or do some clever adaption to what I now have. The next photos show the left hand side of the housing and another one I have for the 34 I'm working on. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 16, 2017 Report Posted March 16, 2017 1 hour ago, TomP said: Your right Ed but it sticks out on th wrong side ie must be a RHD bell housing, so I've either got to find a left hand housing or do some clever adaption to what I now have. The next photos show the left hand side of the housing and another one I have for the 34 I'm working on. What I was trying to say is I think the bellhousing is the same and you just have a RHD pedal shaft. 1 Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted March 17, 2017 Report Posted March 17, 2017 Tom P , If you decide that you need a pedal shaft made for left hand drive let me know as I have an extra one . I don't know if the bell housings are the same left or right . Quote
TomP Posted March 17, 2017 Author Report Posted March 17, 2017 16 hours ago, Jerry Roberts said: Tom P , If you decide that you need a pedal shaft made for left hand drive let me know as I have an extra one . I don't know if the bell housings are the same left or right . Hi Jerry thank you for the offer, at the moment I'm lost without one, I would guess that the sizes don't change much on that type of spare, the engine is T142x9005x which is 1948/9 according to the registry. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Should make you aware I'm in the UK if your happy with that email/pm me and we can take it from there. It would be great to get this truck under power, I'm not intending doing a lot to it just get it safe and running to get it through our MoT regs. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted March 17, 2017 Report Posted March 17, 2017 Tom P Here are photos of the spare part that I have . It came from a bell housing in a 1939 Dodge truck , 1/2 ton . If you or anyone else knows if it is what you need , please speak up . Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 18, 2017 Report Posted March 18, 2017 Do the throw-out bearing fingers only have contact pads on one side, or could the shaft be flipped to work the other way? Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted March 18, 2017 Report Posted March 18, 2017 48 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: Do the throw-out bearing fingers only have contact pads on one side, or could the shaft be flipped to work the other way? One side only . Quote
TomP Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) 6 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: Do the throw-out bearing fingers only have contact pads on one side, or could the shaft be flipped to work the other way? Agree with Jerry, the fingers have a curve on them, had the been straight I could have turned it around the other way but thinking about that the key way would also been 180 deg. out. The other shaft I have from the car bell housing looks a little short. From 7000 miles away your spare shaft is what I need Jerry. Edited March 18, 2017 by TomP Quote
TomP Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Posted July 28, 2017 On 3/17/2017 at 11:37 PM, Jerry Roberts said: Tom P Here are photos of the spare part that I have . It came from a bell housing in a 1939 Dodge truck , 1/2 ton . If you or anyone else knows if it is what you need , please speak up . Hi Jerry got back to working on the engine trans today, the pedal shafts fits like a glove and the pedal assembly goes together as it should, will get some photos next time I'm at my unit. Thank you. Next problem, on the distributor the points look to be riveted over to prevent the nylon follower lifting, question is do I have to remove the basement plate complete and replace it. Engine no. T142x9005x Hoping to run it up while strapped the pallet before starting the big clean. Thanks for your help gents. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 28, 2017 Report Posted July 28, 2017 Tom , Are you saying that the contact points are somehow fastened together ? If you just need new points you can order those by your distributor number located on the side of the distributor . I can look up most Auto-Lite point numbers from your distributor number . The best way to service the distributor is to remove it from the engine . It can go back in two ways so mark the location that the rotor is pointing before removal . Quote
TomP Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Jerry, my problem is that can't get the moving point off of the vertical post it seams to be riveted to the post as indicated in the photo, do I have to buy the complete plate assembly or can I just get the points and fit them to what I already have. The points open and close no problem. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 28, 2017 Report Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Remove the screw up near the point's contact pads, loosen or remove the screw where the the wire/strap connects, and the points assembly will lift off. The "rivet" that you point to is either part of the whole assembly, or it is just a guide post for the points to sit onto. Edited July 28, 2017 by Merle Coggins Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 29, 2017 Report Posted July 29, 2017 Just like Merle said . It just slips on there . If it is still stuck , use a little penetrating oil . That isn't a rivet , just a smooth post . Quote
TomP Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Posted July 29, 2017 OK I will give that a try, the moving point is free to revolve must just need a little leverage to get it sliding up the post, WD40 type spray. Thought it was a bit stubborn and didn't want to force it, easier to first thanks. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 29, 2017 Report Posted July 29, 2017 You also have to disconnect the wires and remove the other screw on the fixed plate. They come off as an assembly. Quote
TomP Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Posted August 1, 2017 On 28/07/2017 at 8:47 PM, Jerry Roberts said: Tom , Are you saying that the contact points are somehow fastened together ? If you just need new points you can order those by your distributor number located on the side of the distributor . I can look up most Auto-Lite point numbers from your distributor number . The best way to service the distributor is to remove it from the engine . It can go back in two ways so mark the location that the rotor is pointing before removal . Think I'm having to go for a new set, my distributor is Auto-Lite 1233564, if I can get it, would go for assembly as above, could you see if you can find a part # and where I might go for one Jerry, might be able to get one in the U.K. but if I google that # it takes me to electronic conversions. Thanks Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 Tom , My Auto-Lite catalog distributor numbers all start with letters followed by numbers , such as IGS-1107 . If you don't have any letters , I can't help . Jerry Quote
TomP Posted August 2, 2017 Author Report Posted August 2, 2017 This is on a T142 1948 engine hope this helps. Thanks Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted August 2, 2017 Report Posted August 2, 2017 (edited) Tom , Use distributor number IAP - 4001-1 when ordering parts . Cap IAO-1003 , rotor IGS - 1016B , contact set ( points ) IGP - 3028ES , condenser IG - 3927G , Breaker plate assembly IAP - 3004 R . These are all Auto-Lite part numbers . I usually find my NOS Auto-Lite parts on ebay . If you don't have any luck finding that breaker plate assembly let me know and I might be of further help . Here is one on ebay for $25 . 222446349012 He doesn't ship to UK but you might ask . If not , I can forward it to you . Edited August 2, 2017 by Jerry Roberts 2 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.