Mattias78 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Posted June 20, 2015 The ingnitor install! Did see that if i remove the plate in the Lower part there will be a hole for the wires! Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Posted June 20, 2015 Sorry for my sick humor but I always thought you had to actually have something before you could lose it. Tomorrow will be a better day. you are so right Don! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 20, 2015 Report Posted June 20, 2015 Mattias; It is best to remove the distributor and work on it on a bench. You can go ahead and remove the old wires inside the distributor as they are no longer required. The ignitor itself is an isolated component. I found that while the distributor is out it is very easy to remove the breaker mounting plate to clean and lubricate the vacuum advance mechanism. This needs to be in good working order if you want the car to run properly. It sounds like you found a spot to route the wires out of the distributor. These wires should be protected against chaffing and not ever get shorted on the distributor housing. The ignitor I have had a grommet on the two wires that fit perfectly in the hole through the distributor. Jeff Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Nothing works!! When i try to start engine it Sounds like it trying to start bakwards! Thats the only way i can describe it! F****k Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) sometimes when you are stalled like this it is best to walk away a bit and set it aside...also going back to baseline prior to any change and get it running again to verify that all is still well except for the proposed ignition upgrade is also a good place to regroup and then when it is smooth running...try you igniter again..the directions you posted along with the schematic picture that Pertronix supplied is as simple and explicit as it can get...just follow their instructions and Bob should truly be your uncle get a cup of coffee...read this...do not think normal ignition with the Pertronix when applied in Positive ground applications.. http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/PerPosGndWiring.htm http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/PerPosGndTest.htm Edited June 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Just now i went back to the original setup! Set the cap on the points and tryed to start! Felt like i had the same problem with the points back in the car..!?! Then the battery died... Ohh happy days!! Will try agian tomorrow i hope! Just have to say that the car was running just fine before i started the petronix uppgrade! How do you say... If it ain't broke don't try to fix it!... Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Mattias; I wonder if you have the correct Ignitor module? Or if during your attempts at trying to wire it ....it was damaged? I have one in my truck and it has been flawless for the last year. It is a 6 volt positive ground module but unlike your module both leads are black......one lead has a white stripe. I have a spare module that has the same black leads. Since your has a red lead I am wondering if it might be a 12 volt unit? Do you know what the model number was for the ignitor you have? I can only go by my own experience. With the distributor out of the truck it was a 20 minute job to do the complete conversion. Once placed back into the vehicle and wired mine fired right up and has ran properly ever since. You do have to look at it differently than the conventional system and it could be damaged by having it wired incorrectly. Jeff Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Hi jeff! The pic that i uploaded shows the wrong wires! Got from the eBay page witch i bought i from! The wires on the ignitor is as you say 1 black and 1 black/White. It might be that i broke the ignitor when i wired it wrong! But if i can get it running agian now when i have the points bak in i will give it another try! I posted a pic of the distributor when i have ignitor installed! Do i need to take of anything else? (The small wires i took of) I was wondering if i need take of the mounting plate for the points? Mayby the ignitor sits to high?!? /Mattias Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Mattias; I know there are a couple of different ignitors depending on distributor model. The mounting plate in my distributor did require a modification. The plate itself stayed in place but I had to remove a metal tab. Some model distributors need to have this done ...... and others don't. I can't really tell from your photos if there is anything wrong with what you have done. Also I am away from mine so I can't make a good comparison. The basic installation after the ignitor is in place is very simple. Feed from ignition switch to ignitor and wire from ignitor to negative side of coil. Positive side of coil goes to ground. No other wires are needed and the old ones inside the distributor can be removed as they no longer do anything. A couple of other things to note is that the ignition switch should always be shut off when the car is not running as leaving this on can cause the ignitor to malfunction. Also you should be using sheilded spark plug wires and plug gap should be set to factory specifications. I get very quick starts with my set up and my engine runs very well. The cap and rotor show no abnormal conditions and have stayed nice and clean. I switched over to this system because I kept seeing what I considered abnormal wear and pitting at the points. Even after trying several different sets. That is all history now. I can't imagine going back to a points system. Jeff Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Thats how i wired it now before i changed back to the points! And still no go! As there were 2 wires going to minus side on the original setup (new wires by previous owner) I did check witch One that was connected to the ignition swith! When the key is in off position was showing 0volt when i turn ignition it was ca 6 volt on that wire! So that must be the right wire to connect to the ignitor! Right! Quote
suntennis Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Is there a part that fits over the cam area of the distributor which the wired Petronix unit needs to pick up when to fire? If so it was not shown on photos. Without this the system will not work. Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 When i read the info on the ignitor i says that there are no need for the magnetsleeve for this setup! It will pickup the signal anyway from the shaft. It has 6 ridges, thats wy i was wondering if i had to take of the plate that the points mount to! To get the ingitor a little bit lower! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Mattias; This now sounds very suspicious. Mine uses the magnetic sleeve.....and I would bet it is needed with yours! The way these work there is a specific air gap between the sleeve and the ignitor that is set by the mounting point of the ignitor. What was the model number on the Ignitor you have? I wonder if you were sent some sort of universal pickup instead of one that was made to fit your specific distributor? Jeff Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 I have to agree with Jeff...these normally use a slip over magnet assembly on the rubbing block....these units are Hall effect..magnet induced....did you buy this as a replacement pick up or did you get an conversion kit. You need the install kit and not merely a pick up. do you have a picture of what was included in your order? Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Jeff!; Yes i know!! The part number is 2563LSP6 The kit included a coil and the ignitor see pic, and nothing else!! I read that the 6 side shaft should be enough? See pic Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Mattias; What model number distributor do you have? Is it an Autolite IGS or IAP? If so then this may be the correct ignitor. I thought all of these units required the magnetic sleeve though.....so I suppose I could be wrong? Jeff Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Jeff It's an IGS! Mayby i broke the ignitor! Hopefully i will get it started and runnig god with the points back in! Then i will try again! Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 If i would buy new sheilded spark plug wires What is the diffrens between unsheilded/sheilded? So i can explaine it to the parts shop! (In swedish) Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 decoding the numbers shown is not found on the Pertrnix site by the number you posted..but online it does show up...while LSP6 will be for lobe sensor positive ground 6 cylinder, the online ad I found still says the unit uses the cobalt magnet trigger collar about the rubbing block.. http://pertronix.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/139922/2563LSP6 so it is with this info I still would question if you got the initial install kit or a replacement unit for a failed in the field unit... Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Sorry but i can't answer that question! Here are a link the eBay ad! Mayby you see that info! http://m.ebay.com/itm/190732457967 Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Found this! http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/ignitor-for-autolote-igs-iap-series-6-volt-pos Quote
William Davey Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 Sorry but i can't answer that question! Here are a link the eBay ad! Mayby you see that info! http://m.ebay.com/itm/190732457967 Looking at the picture, the little round black thing by the bottom right corner of the Ignitor box is the magnetic trigger that slips over the 6 lobes of the center shaft. You don't have that and I think you need it. Quote
Mattias78 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Posted June 21, 2015 Think they use the same picture for all listings! The link to the pertronix webb site shows the ignitor that i got in the kit! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted June 21, 2015 Report Posted June 21, 2015 decoding the numbers shown is not found on the Pertrnix site by the number you posted..but online it does show up...while LSP6 will be for lobe sensor positive ground 6 cylinder, the online ad I found still says the unit uses the cobalt magnet trigger collar about the rubbing block.. http://pertronix.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/139922/2563LSP6 so it is with this info I still would question if you got the initial install kit or a replacement unit for a failed in the field unit... Yes I feel the same about this. I am not sure how it would sense the metal lobes.......but if it could it would still be gap sensitive. Jeff Quote
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