1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Still waiting for switches (should arrive tomorrow, my last day at work....forever) and the glass. But making progress.

 

Remember the old Mazda bulbs that were original, and the little tiny second lamp in the lens that served as running light? Remember you replaced them with 6V sealed beams....and forever after burned out the sole 30 amp fuse on the car every hour on the hour that you used headlights? I remember....I was in charge of changing fuses, even hot! My hands fit under the dash better while you were driving.

 

Well, now Ol Bessy has 12V sealed beam halogens. I'll put them on hi and low beam relays. This will remove all the high amperage load under the dash (less fire risk) and assure the headlights get the full 14.8 volts from the alternator. Should by just like the two blazers I put on relays, darn bright at night. The Headwinds sealed beam conversion kit looks good. I'll need to replace the plastic retainer, they'll probably be off once or twice more and are getting a bit beat up with all the fitting. No worries....even Walmart has the retainers. We can get them anywhere.

 

As for the running and turn lamps up front. I made up new steel brackets with a brace against vibration and got them painted and mounted tonight. Even hooked up the battery charger and tested them out. Looking good out front.

 

I also received the red dash lamp which will ensure the alternator is energized on start up. Mounted the red lamp and the wiper switch on the dash plate.

 

I have one more red lamp I need to find a spot for without drilling holes in the dash. This one will be for brake warning.....loose a brake circuit (front or rear) and the red warning lamp will let you know half your brakes are gone.

 

Finally, rear brake cylinders arrived. Time to tear off the wheels and drums and see what needs done for stopping that big 12 bolt out back.

 

See you soon.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

Switches arrived. Got your dash set up from left to right. Lights with dash dimmer, Alternator Charge Lamp, Ignition switch (with accessory position), hole for choke (yep, we'll likely have a real manual choke on those dual Rochester carbs), temporarily upside down wiper switch.

Later i'll get a set of dash knobs off a 50s dodge and replace the various knobs so they all look the same.

The shop didn't weld the hole in the floor for the headlight dimmer, here roughly in place till I wire it up. Also picked up a self resetting breaker and two relays to put the headlights on full power.....just got to find a place to mount them under the hood, damn its tight in there....more about that in a moment.

Rear cover is back on and sealed up, I can fill it in the morning. Still got to clean and paint the rear axle and possibly replace the pinion seal. Rear brake cylinders arrived so I'll soon pull the wheels and see if the drums and hardware need work or replacement.
As for the tight under hood space. It was a 23" long 6 cylinder about a foot wide and it kinda filled the engine bay. I have no idea if an AC compressor will fit in there. Certainty not down low and as the real high mounted AC compressor/alternator combinations just look like hell, a high mount is a last resort.

A mid mount set up needs 32" across the top of the valve covers. We have 28" with the hood closed. I am thinking that what will work for us is Power steering on the DS side, probably just below mid mount and alternator on the Passenger side just above mid mount. Essentially, there don't appear to be room for an AC compressor, but we'll see when the motor is set in October.

Additionally, we have two options for brake master cylinder, under the floor (shop cut out and disposed of all the original under floor bracketry, pedals, pedal mounts and linkage) or up on the firewall. I will have to make a mount in wood (due to the firewall being recessed 4" right in the center line position where a master cylinder would hang) and then copy it in steel for a firewall master cylinder but I think it will fit in with the new engine. Again, we'll see once the engine is in place.

Over all, no worries but i can see that the easy jobs are coming to an end and the whiskey and a cigar sitting on a milk crate while thinking and listening to rock and roll challenges are about to commence.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Very successful first day of 6 weeks practice to retirement. I exceeded my sleep in goal of 0500 wake up by not waking up until 0600.

 

Among other thing, including sitting on the porch at 0615 with a cup of coffee and watching other folks go to work......I started fun with paint on Ol Bessy.

 

Not knowing what color they shot, and irritated enough with them not to call and ask, I assumed they used what I requested, Dodge, PB5 Electric Pearl Blue. Given all the marks and unpainted interior trim I ordered a can of Patritot Pearl Blue PB7 as its a shade darker than the PB5.....and the aftermarket sprays always seem a shade light.

 

So, I was sent Intense Pearl Blue PB3, a shade lighter. Didn't notice till the first coat was shot on the Opera Window Garnish. So, inside the car, it'll be fine, matches well and the opera windows are not too close to other painted garnish. But, its no match for the PB5 we assume is on the car.

 

So, Ok......we won't tell anybody the rear trim is a different shade of blue and they'll probably never notice anyway. But, I have to try to find PB5 or at least PB7 to work the dash, if not, I'll just repaint all the interior trim in the lighter shade I used today.

 

Also, laid out the Painless Performance wiring harness. Looks good, every wire is labeled. It won't be easy but it won't be too hard. For now i can start wiring everything from the dash to the trunk. Can't wire forward of the firewall because all the sheetmetal has to come off to set the motor and radiator.

 

I'll get you some photos of Ol Bessy Lit up as soon as the wiring starts to go in place this week.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

21 circuit wiring harness....that means more than double that in wires cause what comes in the box, has to go out the box and around the circuit.

 

So, started by dividing the harness up. Painless has it rough divided into accessory, engine and tail. I further divided each loop/set of wires in the bundles. A total of 13 loops to handle.

 

First job is to decide where to hang the fuse box. After that, the big loop at 6 oclock is the start point, thats the tail section with dome, turn, brake, fuel sender, etc.

 

Gonna have to make a lowes run, looks like we are going to need a box of wiring loops and about 40eleven feet of cable cover.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Picked a spot for the fuse box. Driver side, cowl. The tail section wiring, I'll probably route as original, inside the car, up and over the doors, down and out through the factory hole in the trunk.

 

Looks a mess right now don't it?

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

This is the original wiring hole in the DS side of the trunk. To keep the connections weather free all the rear wiring was routed inside the car, in this case, like factory, up and over the inside of the roof on the drivers side. Everything is wrapped full length front to back.

 

And to allow for easy repairs, addition of tow connections, etc, I did like we did back in the 90s by installing a gang block which provides hook ups from top to bottom as follows: Left turn/Flasher/Brake, Right turn/Flasher/Brake, Left running lamp/license lamp, Right running lamp, Left reverse light (right reverse lamp is left off/not in use), Ground point for all rear lamps and the fuel sender.

 

From the gang block I'll take ground from trunk floor to frame.

 

Probably finish this up tomorrow and that will be all the wiring for the rear end. Only about 80sixteen more wires to go.

[Sharps40]

Working on dads hotrod today. Brake light switch,  fluids,  cleaning linkages.  Needs run more than it needs tuned.  Run the snot out of her Dad....that built 305 wants to holler for ya.

 

 

[Sharps40]

Dad. Separated out all the dash switch wiring. Gotta route and wrap it. Then we'll have hook ups for wipers, lights, dimmer, radio. Heat and air.   Just gotta fish out the alternator excitor wire for the light bulb.......its in there.....somewhere!

 

 

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Spent most of the day on wiring. Managed to get the dash switch plate wired up, ignition, alternator light, headlight switch and wiper switch. Everything wrapped, soldered and crimped.

 

A huge amount of the day was spent upside down looking up into the dash and separating out those wires that go up over and into the switch plate from those that go down and through the firewall to the engine bay.

 

So far, the wiring part is pretty easy. The hard part is the monkey contortions to get the wires in the right places after reading the itty bitty numbers on the wires and double checking to determine if its going the right place.

 

The big scare today is a misprint in the painless wiring harness guide book. After separating out the wiring by number, wrapping it, fishing it, clamping it all the the inside of the firewall, i had a brown wire in hand and the picture called for green when using a painless ignition switch. Ouch. Back through the harness for an hour, traced the brown wire, its right.

 

Of the 5 or more switches highlighted in the instructions, only one calls out a green wire on the schematic (labeled brown in the instructions and colored brown in the harness). Since it had the right number and went the right places, I hooked it up. Hope it don't explode the tail lights when I put power to it the first time! (I'm sure its right. Misprint in the book)

 

PS....last of the glass arrived. Guess what I'm doing after dinner?

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Glass is finally done. Everything fits and works. The last three pieces are a much darker green tint than the original and replacement glass we used in the past. But, she's buttoned up.

 

As for wiring.....I have just about run out of wiring to do. Firewall to rear bumper is 98% complete. Fire wall forward is not being done yet as I have to pull the sheet metal and engine/trans to swap in the new power plant. But gauges, switches and the back end are all hooked up and ready to work.

 

So.....time to start on the rear brakes tomorrow. Time to clean and paint the underside, clean the fuel tank and plumb fuel and brakes at least as far as the firewall.   Probably need to order the stereo and speakers now as well.  I'll also measure the wheel spaces and order the first wheel and tire to check fit all around. Will likely also convert the points distributor to electronic (of the two on hand, the HEI unit is worn out, the 71 Chevelle dizzy is in nice shape and the smaller size is prettier under the hood with a big coil beside it).

 

At this pace, and barring any heavy duty deer hunting (that's very likely to happen), it'll be time to find an engine hoist and order the motor and trans by or before the end of October.

 

 

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Diving into the rear brakes, back to front as always for this job.

 

New wheel cylinders arrived. Knew I'd need them. First look at the passenger side rear drum brake.

 

Drum is August 72 and 150 thousands oversize. Will replace both drums then. 2 lug studs missing, other three good shape and chased to clean up the thread. With luck I can press the new lug studs onto the axle flange through the hole in the backing plate for the wheel cylinder. If not, its take apart the differential and then decide whether to replace studs or the entire axle assembly.

 

I have all the measurements and so checking the parts availability tonight.

 

After some lunch, on to the drivers side rear drum to see how it looks.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Got through the rear brakes today. Ordered the right parts to make it stop.

 

On the way is 2 brake drums, brake shoes, wheel studs, wheel nuts, axle brake lines, rear brake hose, brake hose bracket, and the first of the chrome smoothie wheels with baby moon caps.

 

Hunting tomorrow but will inventory the fuel tank and system. Probably just need straps and tubing for that, an easy job that can be accomplished in concert with the brakes on the rear axle.

 

I think the shop had us stuck in a well, and kept throwing in crap. But in fine fashion, we climbed up the ******* pile and are out of the trap. So far, so good and I see Ol Bessy starting to shine. Lots of work ahead but we will make it.

 

Be ready to work between hunting trips when you get here in a few weeks.

 

A photo of your wheel attached. Should be sexxy with a whitewall. We can't afford Cokers but we'll have nice riding radial tires on it.

 

Once I pop it on, I can double check for fit, but right now the 235/75R15s on the car stick out of the fenders. Measurements indicate a good 15" x 6" wheel with less than 4" backspace should accommodate a tire size like 225/75R15 - Good height, fills the wells, doesn't rub or stick out......I hope.....Measure 75 times, purchase once!

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Found a way to convert an original 1" hole to a 1.25" hole without chewing up the metal. Drill a hole in a block, line it up, drill out the new larger hole. Works like a champ with a hole saw and a variable speed drill.

 

So, all the wires to the front now out the floor and headed forward along the original frame clamps on the Drivers side.

 

All that is left under the dash is 2 radio wires, AC and Heat wires, speedo sender wire, cigar/power wire, one accessory wire.

 

Its starting to look much less like a spaghetti bowl on the drivers side floor.

 

Off to hunt. Back on Ol Bessy tomorrow.

[Merle Coggins]

I ran across this video recently. I know it’s too late for you on this one, but may be useful in the future.

 

 

[Sharps40]

That is a great idea, Thanks!!!!!

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Took a break on Ol Bessy and got us some supper.  .45 Round ball with cloth patch and 60g fff powder.   40 yards, no tracking.   Thanks for teachin me to shoot good!  Let eat!

 

Edited October 7, 2019 by Sharps40

[rhelm1953]

No need to pull the axles to replace the wheel studs.  Slide the stud into the hole, add a stack of greased flat washers, flip the lug nut upside down so the flat side is against the washers.  As you tighten the bolt the washers will slip against each other and you will draw the stud into the hole.  I learned this trick when I was 18 (many decades ago) and the tire shop over torqued the lug bolts on my old Chevy,  The bolts started popping as I was driving down the road and I was down to one lug bolt when I pulled in the library parking lot.  My Dad showed me how to fix the first one and left me to finish the rest.

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Some of the parts arrived today. After the morning hunt, I was able to install brake new Raysbestos drums and Wagner riveted shoes. Nothing adjusted yet, still waiting on lines and clips. Rear brake hose (71 Camaro) arrived along with the proper brackets, will get them mounted in a couple days with the lines and clips....then I'll finalize the rear brakes (except for the emergency brake cables).

 

The light socket arrived for the license lamp. Got the replacement bracket made up and the wires routed. Some soldering to do yet and waiting on the third brake light to arrive. (A pair of red bullets to mount on the license plate. Brakes will be four red lamps across the fenders and trunk.....maybe that'll wake up the folks behind).

 

Half the lug nuts arrived for the rear wheels, so, have one side done. Still waiting on the other lug nuts and new studs for the passenger side rear.

 

The chrome wheel is supposed to arrive tonight....but we are in the country and FeDex will often hold all the remote packages till later in the week and make one trip out to the boonies.....we'll know after the evening hunt if there are no boxes on the porch.

Edited October 8, 2019 by Sharps40

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Rim arrived. Largest that will likely fit all the way around. I checked it in the rear as its the tightest fit. Its a 15x6 rim for a 225/75R15 tire (same size as your 47 Chevy truck.)

 

With that tire size, looks like our inside clearance between inflated tire and steel fender/inner fender well will be 1+" to fender and about 2" to inner fender well.

 

Shes bright. I'll drop it off to get a Hankook Optimo or similar white wall mounted and balanced tomorrow. When its back I'll check fit again with weight on the rubber. If its good, will be ordering 3 more to shoe up Ol Bessy.

 

Also, your third brake light will be red bullets on the license plate. Naturally, one broke on assembly so.......I have a do over to do but, they look pretty good. Since one broke I'll try to find some antique jeweled red glass lights instead of these LED models. But, assembled and wired here for proof of concept.

 

Work to do in the woods tomorrow, rifle season starts Sat. Will be hunting the AM sat with Uncle Vic's WWII capture rifle. In between times I'll keep moving forward on the brakes. But at least today, I got new lug studs pulled into the axle and I have the axle brake lines and hoses now. So, moving quickly forward.

 

Probably 2 to 4 full days work and then I think I must dung out the shop and start removing the front sheet metal. You see, we are rapidly approaching the need to purchase the engine, trans and cooling system.....Right on time/target. All is well. Don't quit your day job, its about to get expensive!

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Spent the morning setting up new deer blinds in the woods. One more to do tomorrow.

 

Got in tonight and plumbed up your rear brakes across the rear axle. Still have to put in the bracket for the flexible hose. Then I'll plumb it all the way up to the firewall.

 

In the past, we've always bent brake lines from scratch. Thought I'd save some time by buying and installing preformed brake lines since I knew exactly what year and model the rear came out of. No dice on time saving. You still have to bend and tweek the preformed lines to get them in place. But they look good, fit good and only a couple more hours work to finish all the break work all the way to the rear.

 

I also dropped off the wheel to get a tire installed. Should have it back tomorrow afternoon and by evening we should have some final measurements and photos. If its all good, I'll get the other three wheels and tires ordered and installed.

 

Tank and fuel plumbing is next. Then we get to the heavy stuff up front!

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Back brakes done, everything is new. First wheel and tire is on and looking sharp. Plenty of clearance to the frame and inner fender well. Bulge of the tire sits just inside the lip of the fender and plenty of clearance for the axle to move up and down over the deep NC pot holes and off road when running through streams and over logs when we go hunting in the old gal.

 

Additional wheels arrive next week, we'll get the remaining tires and the spare then.

 

Tank straps and supplies are ordered, so I can get the tank in place.

 

So, gotta do the dirty job cleaning , sealing and painting the floor pan underside....I'll slow boat that so maybe when you get here you can get your eyes and hair fulla rusty crap too.

 

Barring any issues, we'll pull the sheet metal and perhaps pull the engine and transmission while you are here this month!

[cturboaddict]

LOVE THOSE RIMS!!!
Where did you get the tank straps from? I broke one today removed the old tank. 

[Sharps40]

Tanks plus.  Universal kit and t bolts

[Sharps40]

Sorry. Tanks inc.  

 

  www.tanksinc.com

Edited October 12, 2019 by Sharps40

[Sharps40]

Dad,

 

Front end is off. Picking up a loaner hoist today. Its tight in there, oddly, you see how tight better with the metal off.

 

I don't know.....small block or big straight six. Much to think about.