Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

 

First I would like to wish everybody a happy new year.

 

I know this subject has been talked about before but, I need to fit a new tank to my p15 as it looks like someone has tried to jack the car up on the tank or maybe it's been backed up over a post or something. Anyway there is a large dent covering half the tank.

 

I hope someone can help. My questions are: is the sender unit voltage sensitive or only the gauge. The car has been changed to 12v neg earth but the gauge is not working. can anyone give me a diagram how to wire it up as when looking at the schematic in the manual it looks like one wire goes to the starter button and I am not sure why. Also where do I wire the resistor. So can I buy a tank with a 12v sender and still use a 6v gauge. Sorry for so many questions.

 

Pete :confused:

Posted (edited)

On my '47 Plymouth converted to 12 volt, I am using the original gauge and sending unit.  If your original sending unit is working fine there is not need to replace it. 

 

I've got a runtz resistor wired in series before the hot wire on the back of the gauge. That is the one coming from the starter button, which is getting it's power from that feed wire. 12 volt will most likely damage your 6v gauge, but with the resistor it works great. Sending units are not voltage sensitive, but the gauges are. 

 

If your sending unit is bad then there are several folks here on the forum that have used a 12 volt alternative, seems there has been a lot of talk about that in the past, so you may do a forum search to read up on that information. 

 

If you are looking for a new fuel tank rather than a used one, the Tanks, inc tank is a good choice and after looking at their website they do offer a new sending unit you can purchase as well.  Not sure if it is compatable with the original fuel gauge though. 

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=226/prd226.htm

Edited by steveplym
Posted

On my '47 Plymouth converted to 12 volt, I am using the original gauge and sending unit.  If your original sending unit is working fine there is not need to replace it. 

 

I've got a runtz resistor wired in series before the hot wire on the back of the gauge. That is the one coming from the starter button, which is getting it's power from that feed wire. 12 volt will most likely damage your 6v gauge, but with the resistor it works great. Sending units are not voltage sensitive, but the gauges are. 

 

If your sending unit is bad then there are several folks here on the forum that have used a 12 volt alternative, seems there has been a lot of talk about that in the past, so you may do a forum search to read up on that information. 

 

If you are looking for a new fuel tank rather than a used one, the Tanks, inc tank is a good choice and after looking at their website they do offer a new sending unit you can purchase as well.  Not sure if it is compatable with the original fuel gauge though. 

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=226/prd226.htm

 

Out of curiosity, does anyone know if the sending unit opening on the tanksinc  tank line up with opening in the trunk floor?

 

Phil

Posted

Thanks guys for the response. Funny enough the tank I was looking at is the same but, on ebay No 221363238582 (i'm not sure how to post a link on here to the item No). It is $397.88 but includes everything Straps, sender unit, new hose, clips, body grommet and cap etc.

 

Phil I asked the seller the same question about lining up with the hole in the floor of my P15 as it looks to be quite off center in the picture, and the reply was "MY BOSS SAYS IT SHOULD BE OK" which is not a very positive answer. As I am in the UK, I would have to pay in addition to the price $139.85 shipping and approx $95 import tax/duty. So I am a bit worried about ordering it and after receiving it it's wrong. Has anybody used one of these tanks on a P15?

 

Am I right in thinking that the live feed goes from the gauge to the sender and then back?

 

Thanks

Pete

Posted

Pete, firstly actually how bad is the original tank?.....not trying to be smart here but even if its severely bashed in its only metal and by my calculations you are looking at a minimium of $631 for an ex US tank that may not work, should work but?.........why not remove the original tank, drain and completely clean it and see about getting the tank split and the lower half, assuming its only the lower half, panel beaten out then reassembled, at least you know it fits and you should get out of it for less than $631...........btw on my 1940 Oz Dodge, yeh, a hotrod but its been like it for 41 yrs, longer than it was stock......I have the original tank and sender unit and original fuel guage with a resistor or voltage drop unit wired into the line from the iginion key, ie,  before the guage.....been like it since 1973 and it works fine........my 2 cents Oz worth........btw welcome to the best mopar forum..........regards from sunny Sth Grafton, NSW, Oz...............andyd.   

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I just installed the Tanksinc on my 48 Plymouth. The hole in the floor lines up with my sending unit.  Buying direct from Tanks the price for the fuel tank is 230.00 and the sending unit is 35.00. That comes with the straps and clamps and rubber hose for the filler neck. I had to do some minor engineering to get the straps to mount but overall very happy with it. I have an updated gauge but according to the website you can get a sending unit compatible to the original gauge.

post-3631-0-11727800-1420155628_thumb.jpg

Edited by bobd1976
  • Like 1
Posted

Pete, firstly actually how bad is the original tank?.....not trying to be smart here but even if its severely bashed in its only metal and by my calculations you are looking at a minimium of $631 for an ex US tank that may not work, should work but?.........why not remove the original tank, drain and completely clean it and see about getting the tank split and the lower half, assuming its only the lower half, panel beaten out then reassembled, at least you know it fits and you should get out of it for less than $631...........btw on my 1940 Oz Dodge, yeh, a hotrod but its been like it for 41 yrs, longer than it was stock......I have the original tank and sender unit and original fuel guage with a resistor or voltage drop unit wired into the line from the iginion key, ie,  before the guage.....been like it since 1973 and it works fine........my 2 cents Oz worth........btw welcome to the best mopar forum..........regards from sunny Sth Grafton, NSW, Oz...............andyd.   

 

Hi Andy,  I see where you are coming from but, the damage is quite bad plus I think the sender unit would be damaged as well. Whilst I know the repair route would be cheaper I think I would be happier with a new tank.

 

 

I just installed the Tanksinc on my 48 Plymouth. The hole in the floor lines up with my sending unit.  Buying direct from Tanks the price for the fuel tank is 230.00 and the sending unit is 35.00. That comes with the straps and clamps and rubber hose for the filler neck. I had to do some minor engineering to get the straps to mount but overall very happy with it. I have an updated gauge but according to the website you can get a sending unit compatible to the original gauge.

attachicon.gifSunday 009.JPG

 

Hi Bobd. Thanks for that info. Makes me feel a bit happier knowing that you have fitted one, so I have just emailed Tanksinc to get a total cost.

 

 

Pete :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Got a reply from Tanksinc but, I am a bit worried as they sent me a link to what they say is the only tank that they have for a 47 Plymouth and it looks totally different and says it's for a 37-39 Plymouth and it's heavy polythene with the filler on the wrong side. After checking on their site there is another tank they do list which is for a 47 which looks more like the tank on bobd1976's car, so bobd I would appreciate if you don't mind looking on their site and type in "1947 Plymouth" and confirm that this is the tank that you used. The other thing they said is the sender is not voltage sensitive but the OHMS of the gauge should be 73 -10, can anybody confirm that for me?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Pete

Posted

Hi again

 

Sorry I have only just noticed the link that steveplym posted is the tank that I am refering to. So bobd you only need to click on that link to see if that is the tank you used.

 

Thanks again

 

Pete

Posted

Hi Pete,

 

I bought a repro Tank from Andys Auto Parts for my '39 DeSoto and I'm very happy with what I got. Still not installed though.

 

Cheers from Switzerland
Elvis

Posted

Hi Pete,

 

I bought a repro Tank from Andys Auto Parts for my '39 DeSoto and I'm very happy with what I got. Still not installed though.

 

Cheers from Switzerland

Elvis

Could you please post a picture, is it a stock tank?

Posted

Hi Frank,

 

No, it's no NOS tank, it's a repro plastic tank. Will make some pictures.

Cheers

Elvis

Posted

i would also like to see pics of the  andys  auto  parts  plastic tank,,,,

 

i just went thru all this  today with all the  vendors i could find,,,i talked to a local shop that  would  of  boiled out my  tank, to get the  rust out,,,around  150  bucks,,,my  question is ,,how long till the  rust returns with todays  gas ???

 

im asuming my tank is the  original,,it still has the  drain  plug,and  its still serviceable,,,,,,i dont think any  repops would have the  drain  plug,,,and if my tank is a repop,  it cant be that old,,,and  it is  rusty  inside like mad,,ended up with a lot of rusty  sludge in the carbs,,with  2  filters in line,,,

 

then i called rock valley,,,stainless steel tank made to fit my 1940 dodge,,,,,same tank as  1940 thru  1948,,,,  795.00 bucks,,,they are proud of there stuff,,,

 

then  i talked to tanks inc,,,i think maybe the guy on the  phone wasnt having a good day,, we talked about that poly tank stated to fit 1937 to 1939,,,he  kept tryting to tell me  it is a passenger side fill,,,its not  i  know some oen with that tank in a 1937  plymouth,,,it is  drivers side,,,but it is  7 inches wider then there 1940 to 1948 steel tank,,,all tho  im sure it woudl fit,,  I would have to relocate and  electric  fuel pump,,,so  i opted for the  aluminum  coated steel tank 1940 to 1948,,, it does measure  a little smaller then  the stock tank,,,and  is  3 1/2 gallons less in  size,,,it will fit perfect and  the  gauge  sending  unit appears  to be correct,,,

 

only  problem  on my  car is  there fill hose for this tank doesnt  seem to be  as tall as  it  needs to be,, so  i will be  adapting the factory  fill tube  to that tank,,,ill try to get  pics of the installll,,,

Posted

i would also like to see pics of the  andys  auto  parts  plastic tank,,,,

 

i just went thru all this  today with all the  vendors i could find,,,i talked to a local shop that  would  of  boiled out my  tank, to get the  rust out,,,around  150  bucks,,,my  question is ,,how long till the  rust returns with todays  gas ???

 

im asuming my tank is the  original,,it still has the  drain  plug,and  its still serviceable,,,,,,i dont think any  repops would have the  drain  plug,,,and if my tank is a repop,  it cant be that old,,,and  it is  rusty  inside like mad,,ended up with a lot of rusty  sludge in the carbs,,with  2  filters in line,,,

 

then i called rock valley,,,stainless steel tank made to fit my 1940 dodge,,,,,same tank as  1940 thru  1948,,,,  795.00 bucks,,,they are proud of there stuff,,,

 

then  i talked to tanks inc,,,i think maybe the guy on the  phone wasnt having a good day,, we talked about that poly tank stated to fit 1937 to 1939,,,he  kept tryting to tell me  it is a passenger side fill,,,its not  i  know some oen with that tank in a 1937  plymouth,,,it is  drivers side,,,but it is  7 inches wider then there 1940 to 1948 steel tank,,,all tho  im sure it woudl fit,,  I would have to relocate and  electric  fuel pump,,,so  i opted for the  aluminum  coated steel tank 1940 to 1948,,, it does measure  a little smaller then  the stock tank,,,and  is  3 1/2 gallons less in  size,,,it will fit perfect and  the  gauge  sending  unit appears  to be correct,,,

 

only  problem  on my  car is  there fill hose for this tank doesnt  seem to be  as tall as  it  needs to be,, so  i will be  adapting the factory  fill tube  to that tank,,,ill try to get  pics of the installll,,,

Thanks. I look forward to the pic's of the install.

 

Pete

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi. Sorry to BUMP this thread again but, I am just about to order my tank from tanks inc (at last) and I do need to order the correct sender unit. Could any body confirm or suggest how I find out the ohms sender I need? They are stating that Early Ford and Mopar use 73 - 10 ohms, does anybody know if this is correct?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Pete

Posted

I just  finished up the  fuel  lines for my  new tank from  tanks,,, ill  load the pics in the  computer and  post in a few minutes if it works,,,

 

as for the sending unit,,i have  after market  gauges stewart warner,,,i TRIED  to  figure out the  ohms  on  the  sending unit that wass in the original tank,,  im sure it  came with the  stewart warner gauges and is not  original,, usully  afterr marktet  gauges  use GM  resistance of  0-90 ohms,,I couldnt not  get a reading on  my sending unit,,,

Posted

ok here are some pics,,glad u gave this topic a bump i couldnt rememebr the title,,,

as u can see in the pics, i ddint use the BOLT on hose and fitting that came wit hthe tank,,bolt on dump idea,, i cut the old fill tube off the original tank,and welded it in place, the hose they send with the tank will not fit my fil tube,,and is too fat to go between the frame and leaf springs like the original,,,and i reused the tank straps that were used on the original tank,,the straps they send are big enough for a tractor trailer,,, for some reason my usuall blue font is not working on this topic,,,hope these pics help you,,

post-938-0-31625400-1427780691_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-89889300-1427780706_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-30615200-1427780734_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-81210800-1427780753_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-69099200-1427780788_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-22033000-1427780804_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-10871400-1427780820_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-19623800-1427780836_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-42583200-1427780857_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-77242300-1427780875_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-31579500-1427780913_thumb.jpg

post-938-0-80176600-1427780923_thumb.jpg

Posted

"ok here are some pics,,glad u gave this topic a bump i couldnt rememebr the title,,,

as u can see in the pics, i ddint use the BOLT on hose and fitting that came wit hthe tank,,bolt on dump idea,, i cut the old fill tube off the original tank,and welded it in place, the hose they send with the tank will not fit my fil tube,,and is too fat to go between the frame and
leaf springs like the original,,,and i reused the tank straps that were used on the original tank,,the straps they send are big enough for a tractor trailer,,, for some reason my usuall blue font is not working on this topic,,,hope these pics help you,,"

 

Thanks For the pics.

 

Why did you not want to use the Bolt on fitting?

 

Pete

Posted

For what it's worth, for my 1950 D34, which is still 6V positive ground, I used a sender from a mid 70's Jeep CJ5, which is 12 V neg gnd and it works fine. I wired it the same was as factory.

 

Senders don't care about positive or negative ground.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use