Smokeybear Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Posted December 29, 2014 If the NV is anything like the AX15 of similar vintage then installing a mech speedo is just a parts swap/bolt-in. The AX15 elec speed part is very much the same as the mech part in regards to the gear and the tailshaft. Thanks for this info, this is interesting. This is what I've found so far The 96 has the electronic output that goes to the speedometer via three wires. orange/white, red, and black. The orange white is the sensing wire, the red is a voltage input that accepts 5v and the black is a ground. The sensors themselves on the outside are similar here is the 96... The older model have a mechanical drive with the same square end as a normal speedo cable... it has a two blade type output. Looking at the pictures I can see where it could be possible to use the original cable and hook it up to the NV3500 transmission if there are threads inside like the older sensor looks to hook up to. That would just leave a question as how to seal up the opening in the side of the transmission. I'll get under the car tomorrow and see if this is feasible. Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Posted December 30, 2014 I am ONE HAPPY MAN!! When I started this project I wanted to be done before the spring so I could enjoy the car in the warmer weather. Well sometimes things go wrong and sometimes things go right. I got to the point today where it was time to try to start the engine. I double and triple checked the start up list and after everything had been looked over I bumped the starter and she rumbled and sputtered a little. I gave it a little timing and it sounded better but still didn't start. So I gave her some more advance and here is the result... http://s210.photobucket.com/user/Smokeybear31/media/1948%20Plymouth%20Special%20Deluxe%20Business%20Coupe/IMG_0554.mp4.html?sort=3&o=2 Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Posted December 30, 2014 Just for giggles I started her again. She sounds STRONG!! http://s210.photobucket.com/user/Smokeybear31/media/1948%20Plymouth%20Special%20Deluxe%20Business%20Coupe/IMG_0555.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1 2 Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Posted December 30, 2014 After double and triple checking for leaks or any other signs of problems, she came down off the jack stands and out the door I went. The first times she's been driven in two months. I am IN LOVE all over again. The brakes are outstanding, the clutch is smooth as silk. She goes through the gears with no effort at all. The power steering is light as a feather with no catching or notchiness. There is the loss of some turning radius but not enough to complain about. I didn't get to drive it far because I haven't finished bleeding the air out of the cooling system and I didn't want to chance overheating so just out of the garage, a quick turn and back in is as far as I got. http://s210.photobucket.com/user/Smokeybear31/media/1948%20Plymouth%20Special%20Deluxe%20Business%20Coupe/IMG_0556.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0 Again. I will update this thread with a lot of pictures of the build and explanations of how I overcame the problems when I get everything ironed out. But for now, you couldn't knock the smile off my face with a speeding Mack truck right now! 2 Quote
falconvan Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 Far out! Great job, she sounds awesome! Quote
fstfish66 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 congrats on your quick progress,,, you talked about the effortless streering,,,the first time you go out at high way speeds BECAREFULL ,,,take notice to the feed back you get from the steering wheel,or the effortless steering,,,i have the same rack and pinion,,, i had to change the pressure on the pressure side of the pump,,it was to easy at faster speeds,,,if I would have sneezed ide of gone off the road,,,, i had the pump slowed down,,,and it is still a little sensitive at faster speeds,,, i may slow it down soem more,,, Quote
Smokeybear Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Posted December 31, 2014 congrats on your quick progress,,, you talked about the effortless streering,,,the first time you go out at high way speeds BECAREFULL ,,,take notice to the feed back you get from the steering wheel,or the effortless steering,,,i have the same rack and pinion,,, i had to change the pressure on the pressure side of the pump,,it was to easy at faster speeds,,,if I would have sneezed ide of gone off the road,,,, i had the pump slowed down,,,and it is still a little sensitive at faster speeds,,, i may slow it down soem more,,, Thanks, I didn't get to highway speeds but I did see how it would do up to about 45. So far really good. I'm am going to have to realign the front though, the steering wheel is off about half a turn. I'm going to let the front springs settle for a few days before I do that but everything seems to be working well. It steers as nice as my wife's Lexus. Brakes are outstanding. It shifts perfectly. I did find a small leak from the waterneck. The Edelbrock intake said that a newer style waterneck wouldn't work but it fits fine. I think I'll just make a thicker gasket and see if that stops the leak. It's just seems to seep just a little. I also noticed that the carb needs to be tuned a bit more, It may be where it's still cold out but it had just a bit of stutter when you first get on the gas. After that it pulls VERY STRONG. As strong as any car I've ever been in including my uncles 71 vette with the 454 4 speed. And I still even haven't had it above 45 yet. 3 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Your tie rods should be arranged, left hand threads and right hand threads, so that if you rotate both of the tie rods in the same direction, such as top of rod to the front, the tow-in will remain the same, but the centering of the steering wheel will change. You are shortening one tie rod while lengthening the other, thus moving the pitman arm and the steering wheel. I forget which way to turn the tie rod ends to move the wheel right or left. Experiment. This assumes that someone didn't bugger the splines at the steering wheel or the pitman shaft. Your steering wheel is off half a turn? 180 degrees? Hmm... Edited December 31, 2014 by DonaldSmith Quote
Smokeybear Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Posted January 1, 2015 Your tie rods should be arranged, left hand threads and right hand threads, so that if you rotate both of the tie rods in the same direction, such as top of rod to the front, the tow-in will remain the same, but the centering of the steering wheel will change. You are shortening one tie rod while lengthening the other, thus moving the pitman arm and the steering wheel. I forget which way to turn the tie rod ends to move the wheel right or left. Experiment. This assumes that someone didn't bugger the splines at the steering wheel or the pitman shaft. Your steering wheel is off half a turn? 180 degrees? Hmm... I should have said a quarter of a turn... almost. There's no pitman shaft anymore, I've replaced it with a rack and pinion. I'll tweak it in a few days to get the steering wheel straight. Quote
Smokeybear Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Posted November 10, 2015 Sorry for the wait, I have been having way too much fun with the old girl. Here are some updated pictures... I painted her again, I went with gloss black this time. I also airbagged the front end. I'll be adding a 4 link and airbagging the rear this winter. I drove her all over this summer and had a great time. She is running and driving perfectly. 75 on the highway is right at 2200 rpm and she still has plenty of power in reserve. If there are any questions, just ask, I'll be glad to go over anything I missed. Gratuitous shiney picture... Quote
Smokeybear Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Posted November 10, 2015 Here's what is nestled up with her in the barn. My dads 55. She's getting power steering and a few cosmetic touch-ups this winter too. At least I won't be complaining that I don't have anything to do. LOL. Quote
fstfish66 Posted November 10, 2015 Report Posted November 10, 2015 was wondering what happened to you,,,car looks great ,,,wondering,,,seems like every one has a different reply,,,how do you like the ride from the air bags ?? i was going to bag my front end when i rebuilt it,but more told me it rode harder then real coils, so i just went with the coils,, kool car u have Quote
Smokeybear Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Posted November 10, 2015 Good question, I can tell you what my seat-of-the-pants-ometer thinks of the airbags....MUCH better. I've driven the car with the original springs, then I cut an inch and a half out of them, then I put in new Aerostar coils in when I rebuilt the front end, then I put in the airbags. The airbags win hands down. No comparison. The front end rides so smooth and tracks so much better. I can adjust on the fly if I need to. I set them up so that when completely deflated, they sit on the bump stops. That gives me plenty of adjustability and I can ride anywhere from 30 PSI to 120 PSI depending on how I want the front end to sit. Usually 70-75 PSI is the sweet spot for comfort and drivability. And the best part is, the mods I made to the lower A-arm wont interfere with the coils if somewhere down the line I decide to go back. I'm really looking forward to bagging the rear, not so much for the looks but for the comfort of the ride. Quote
YukonJack Posted November 11, 2015 Report Posted November 11, 2015 I must have it, what rear end are you using? Quote
Smokeybear Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Posted November 11, 2015 I must have it, what rear end are you using? Ford 8.8 from a Ford Ranger. Quote
fstfish66 Posted November 15, 2015 Report Posted November 15, 2015 Good question, I can tell you what my seat-of-the-pants-ometer thinks of the airbags....MUCH better. I've driven the car with the original springs, then I cut an inch and a half out of them, then I put in new Aerostar coils in when I rebuilt the front end, then I put in the airbags. The airbags win hands down. No comparison. The front end rides so smooth and tracks so much better. I can adjust on the fly if I need to. I set them up so that when completely deflated, they sit on the bump stops. That gives me plenty of adjustability and I can ride anywhere from 30 PSI to 120 PSI depending on how I want the front end to sit. Usually 70-75 PSI is the sweet spot for comfort and drivability. And the best part is, the mods I made to the lower A-arm wont interfere with the coils if somewhere down the line I decide to go back. I'm really looking forward to bagging the rear, not so much for the looks but for the comfort of the ride. sounds great, keep us posted on the rear air bag project,,, Quote
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