austinsailor Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 Is there a list somewhere that would give some ideas of what carbs to use? And when you say bigger off a truck, I assume you're sticking with 23" and 25" stuff. When I sent my carb off a 331 big truck 30" motor to George a few years back for rebuilding he commented he'd never seen a Ball and Ball that big. I have a few intakes and this discussion has me fired up to get them on something. I have an Edmonds 2 2bbl for the 25" and a pair of weber progressive 2 bbl carbs to go on them, and a 25" Edmunds dual single bbl with no carbs yet. I have to wonder which would be the best choice? I am planning to use the dual 2 bbl Webers. Cam was reground pretty agressive. Head was shaved .100". I'll use a set of tube headers Langdon made up. I need to get this one together and in the car. Also 2 23", one an Offenhsuser dual with adapters to 2 2bbl carter webers, and an Edmunds dual single bbl with 2 ball and balls. The dual webers look pretty good, but it sounds like if I want some performance, I should stick with the Edmunds. Would I be helping or hurting to put the 2 bbl Webers on Edmonds. Both manifolds were made for singles. I have a set of Fenton cast exhaust headers to use with them. Quote
timkingsbury Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 Is there a list somewhere that would give some ideas of what carbs to use? And when you say bigger off a truck, I assume you're sticking with 23" and 25" stuff. When I sent my carb off a 331 big truck 30" motor to George a few years back for rebuilding he commented he'd never seen a Ball and Ball that big. I have a few intakes and this discussion has me fired up to get them on something. I have an Edmonds 2 2bbl for the 25" and a pair of weber progressive 2 bbl carbs to go on them, and a 25" Edmunds dual single bbl with no carbs yet. I have to wonder which would be the best choice? I am planning to use the dual 2 bbl Webers. Cam was reground pretty agressive. Head was shaved .100". I'll use a set of tube headers Langdon made up. I need to get this one together and in the car. Also 2 23", one an Offenhsuser dual with adapters to 2 2bbl carter webers, and an Edmunds dual single bbl with 2 ball and balls. The dual webers look pretty good, but it sounds like if I want some performance, I should stick with the Edmunds. Would I be helping or hurting to put the 2 bbl Webers on Edmonds. Both manifolds were made for singles. I have a set of Fenton cast exhaust headers to use with them. Sure I can do that for you pretty easy ! Yes I am talking the 23 1/2 and 25 1/2" truck stuff. For the 7 main crank engines, 331, 377 , 413 engines they used a completely different series of ball and ball carbs and the expert on rebuilding those was my Dad. Sadly he passed away a few years back. But if you were stuck, I might be able to help out on the big truck stuff. I do have a truck with a 413, an ellis dual carb intake and huge carter ball and ball carbs. I am not a fan of the progressive webers. You get far better mileage and performance out of a triple intake and single barrel carbs. So between the two intakes its a no brainer.. use the dual single barrel intake. On the offy, lots of rev, terrible torque pattern. Id sell that one. The webers are better than nothing, but just dont make sense for a flathead mopar. remember your dealing with 3 siamese ports. The design of the weber was to use 1 barrel at low speed, and as you press the throttle the 2nd barrel engages. The problem is that two of them both using the 1st barrel is less cfm than most single barrel carters and so your into the second barrel too early. Then wide open those 4 barrels have less cfm that two reasonable sized carter truck carbs. So while the webers work super well for a lot of cars like MG;s they are not effective for the flathead mopars. Take the dual carb dual barrel intake, out a converter from a 2 barrel to a 1 barrel and your better off. But too your question, here is a list of most of the common carter ball and ball carbs and I have included the throttle bore and venturi sizes for most of them. My1949 plymouth business coupe is running 3 - e7u2 carbs modified, and running now hard to find Grose Jets. Our Dragster is running 3 e9k1 carbs and they have been heavily modified so the total cfm of the 3 carbs is pretty close to 2500 cfm in total. Not exactly high fuel mileage street carbs.. CARBURETOR STUFF Plymouth 1933 – 1938 – model 439s (1 7/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) 1940 – 1942 - “P9” Carter Carb Ball and Ball model # b6p1, b6r1 and b6s1 (2 hole base) (1 5/32 throttle bore 1 3/32 venturi) 1942 (p14) and 1946-48 (p15) Model d6g1 – (2 hole base) (1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) * 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2 ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi) there was a d6n1, d6n2 and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors * 1953 – 1954 – P24-p25 Plymouth with overdrives – D6U1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) Dodge 1937 – 1940 truck - etr1r (2 hole base) 1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb) 1941, 42, 46, 47 truck etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r 1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi) * 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1 * 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) * 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi) 1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft) ** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carbureters – e7u1 and e7u2 1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi) * Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953 - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi) ** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) (this is the 265 ci motor carbs) *1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs) * 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 9/32 venturi) (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb) * 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi) Quote
timkingsbury Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 Is there a list somewhere that would give some ideas of what carbs to use? And when you say bigger off a truck, I assume you're sticking with 23" and 25" stuff. When I sent my carb off a 331 big truck 30" motor to George a few years back for rebuilding he commented he'd never seen a Ball and Ball that big. I have a few intakes and this discussion has me fired up to get them on something. I have an Edmonds 2 2bbl for the 25" and a pair of weber progressive 2 bbl carbs to go on them, and a 25" Edmunds dual single bbl with no carbs yet. I have to wonder which would be the best choice? I am planning to use the dual 2 bbl Webers. Cam was reground pretty agressive. Head was shaved .100". I'll use a set of tube headers Langdon made up. I need to get this one together and in the car. Also 2 23", one an Offenhsuser dual with adapters to 2 2bbl carter webers, and an Edmunds dual single bbl with 2 ball and balls. The dual webers look pretty good, but it sounds like if I want some performance, I should stick with the Edmunds. Would I be helping or hurting to put the 2 bbl Webers on Edmonds. Both manifolds were made for singles. I have a set of Fenton cast exhaust headers to use with them. I meant to ask.. what engine are you using that you have shaved the head 100 thou.. depending on the motor and head, you may find yourself needing octane booster depending on what octane fuel you have access to. You definately want to avoid some of what I can corn infused gas.. Quote
austinsailor Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 I meant to ask.. what engine are you using that you have shaved the head 100 thou.. depending on the motor and head, you may find yourself needing octane booster depending on what octane fuel you have access to. You definately want to avoid some of what I can corn infused gas.. 251 bored .060 over. I expect to use high octane, maybe just run av gas. Edgerton ground me a cam that is pretty aggressive, I have the specs somewhere. Block is ported. Intended to be a better than stock motor that sounds awesome. Not for long trips, just local playing around.. It's going into a 42 Plymouth with 3 speed with overdrive. I have everything to finish it - except time, it seems. Quote
timkingsbury Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 251 bored .060 over. I expect to use high octane, maybe just run av gas. Edgerton ground me a cam that is pretty aggressive, I have the specs somewhere. Block is ported. Intended to be a better than stock motor that sounds awesome. Not for long trips, just local playing around.. It's going into a 42 Plymouth with 3 speed with overdrive. I have everything to finish it - except time, it seems. Sounds cool. Yes 100 thou off is pretty agressive for pump fuel. I think his "radical cam" is the old 1/4 mile stock car cam. You will see decent performance improvement over stock. The overdrive will definately help. Id suggest changing the "pumpkin" in the rear end with something out of a 1948-1954 chrysler which would get your 3:54 gears. Easy change. Pull the axles and you can change it over easy. Other than that, either use your edmunds two carb intake, and stick a couple of carter ball and balls on them. If you need them, George can provide you a matched pair of completely rebuilt ones for $300 for the pair with exchange of a couple of carbs and seriously even if you use your own rebuilt carter ball and balls, George's stainless linkage is seriously awesome. Or step up since your using headers, and get one of our AoK triples. Ramps up the cool factor, will definately increase the performance and because you have a carb over each siamese intake port, you have absolutely perfectly balanced flow. Hint Hint.. rofl $490 + shipping .. Tim Quote
austinsailor Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 I have a 49 Chrysler sitting here, i haven't checked, but i think it's most likely 3.90 or so, but it's complete and could be a driver with little work, so I'm not ready to part it out. I also have an NOS 3.54 ring and pinion gear set on the shelf but I understand I need a later pumpkin than the'42. But, my feeling is with overdrive that may be a bit tall for gearing. But I'm no expert, so I'm interested in any feedback. Gene Quote
Young Ed Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 I've got a 3.73 behind OD and a stock 218 in my 48 Plymouth club coupe. With the bigger motor and the mods I'd think a 3.54 would be ok. Quote
timkingsbury Posted November 30, 2014 Report Posted November 30, 2014 I have a 49 Chrysler sitting here, i haven't checked, but i think it's most likely 3.90 or so, but it's complete and could be a driver with little work, so I'm not ready to part it out. I also have an NOS 3.54 ring and pinion gear set on the shelf but I understand I need a later pumpkin than the'42. But, my feeling is with overdrive that may be a bit tall for gearing. But I'm no expert, so I'm interested in any feedback. Gene Hi Gene - On your 3:54 gears.. You can put that pumpkin right into your 1942 plymouth. What you need to change is the connection piece on your plymouth Pumpkin over to the chrysler pumpkin. 1937 - I think 1950 all interchangeable.. I think its 1953 they used a finer spline on the axles, but you will be ok. Your 49 chrysler, check the pumpkin as the gear ratio is marked on it, on the drive shaft side. In terms of being too tall, nah, not even remotely close. A stock 218 or 238 has all kinds of torque to utilize an overdrive and 3:54 rear end. A 250 bored out 60 thou, a fairly radical cam and an AoK triple, and too tall .. rofl, your issue is going to be burning the rubber off the tire. No worries you will be just fine. Tim Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.