Front Brake Distribution Block (1940)

[Bmartin]

I redid all the hard lines during my disc brake conversion and used the stock distribution block.  Turns out the 5/16" input flare was flattened by a bad line flare.  So it would not seal to any adapters or plugs.  I drilled and tapped it out to 1/4" NPT, my buddy was helping me and grabbed a plug and threaded it in, problem is, I don't think it was 1/4" NPT.  That was still in the package.  So its still leaking.  I only need three ports, so I was wondering if anyone has found a block that is similar to the stock one.  I don't want to have to redo the hardlines, but most blocks I've seen have the outputs going up and down, not horizontal like the stock one.  It does not need to match the stock one, but needs horizontal ports.  3/16" preferred.  So far, I have not found anything. 

 

Another option is to find someone to braze the hole closed.  Anyone with experience in brazing, can this be done well enough to hold pressure? 

 

I've seen some used stock ones on Ebay now and then.  But they go for $100 and up.  So its not my first choice, especially when I'm not a stock braking system.  Let me know if you have found anything.  Thanks.

[Don Coatney]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Car-Truck-Parts-/6030/i.html?_nkw=brake%20fittings&_trksid=p2050890.m1602

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Inverted-Flare-Tee-Brass-Brake-Line-Fitting-NEW-/371116560807?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56684551a7&vxp=mtr

[Dave72dt]

Edelmann  # 130333   3/16" union tee

[desoto1939]

There isa NOS 36-42 Front brake block tee on the bay   $76.42 can be found under 39 Desoto but this will work for your car.

 

MArting Are you saying that your fron brake block is a straight across setup horizontal unit.  The factory brake block is a vertical unit just lik the one I just found onthe bay.  I have looked in my Wagner Catlog for a wagner number and they do not list this brake block so I can not provide you with a Wagner number.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Bmartin]

This is what I have in my car. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-1941-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Brake-T-Switch-MoPaR-/111429804765?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f1bbe2dd&vxp=mtr#ht_1954wt_1105

 

The issue with the T's are that they are laid out differently, at least one port is in the verticale plane (When installed in the car).  So its difficult to get the existing hard lines to line up.

 

Rich, that is the same one.  I was hoping to find a different application that I could use and not 'steal' a stock piece from someone staying original.  Plus they are pretty pricey.  Its just odd that every other block I've found kicks at least one of the ports up or down.    Perhaps another stock one is the easiest choice. 

[Don Coatney]

The only vertical port is the brake light switch that you said you don't need.

 

[desoto1939]

This is what I have in my car. 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-1941-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Brake-T-Switch-MoPaR-/111429804765?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f1bbe2dd&vxp=mtr#ht_1954wt_1105

 

The issue with the T's are that they are laid out differently, at least one port is in the verticale plane (When installed in the car).  So its difficult to get the existing hard lines to line up.

 

Rich, that is the same one.  I was hoping to find a different application that I could use and not 'steal' a stock piece from someone staying original.  Plus they are pretty pricey.  Its just odd that every other block I've found kicks at least one of the ports up or down.    Perhaps another stock one is the easiest choice. 

As Don posted the top hole is used for the brakelight switch.  Also the hole or port for the master cylinder line I think is a bigger hole and larger piece of tubing. I will check the spare one that I have and make measurements becasue mine still has the lines and the flared end attached to it.  Yes these are expensive so that is why you have to be careful when threading the flared nut into the unit.

 

ALso on yours the four holes are on each side of the block on Dons it seem as if  one of the hole is coming out of the block on the side of the block that faces the engine block.  On mine and yours the holes would be facing the front of the car townards the rad - 2  and 2 holes facing the rear of the car towards the cowel.

 

Rich HArtung

Edited August 14, 2014 by desoto1939

[desoto1939]

Ok I took some measurement of my spare front brake block  Number 668929 which was used  from 1937 - 1940 on at least my Desoto.

 ok looking down from the top hole which is the brake light switch.

topright brake line is  5/16  the flare nut is 1/2

bottom right, top left and bottom left are all 1/4 brake line with 7/16 flarenut

 

hope this helps

 

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Bmartin]

Thanks guys, I guess I should have been more clear.  I switched to a dual master and 3/16 brake line as part of my disc conversion.  The 5/16 input had a hard line with a bad flare, kind of flat.  It bent the flare in the block.  It sealed to the previous hardline, but nothing else.  Since I went dual master, I only needed one of the fittings on the back side.  So I have been trying to seal up the 5/16" input.  I pulled the plug out and it was wrong, but the threads still looked good.  So I put the 1/4" NPT plug in and we'll see what happens. 

 

I was looking for other options with a similar layout so I would not have to redo my brand new brake lines to match one of the others with ports in different planes.  If this does not work, I'll be shelling out for a NOS one.