Omioteks Royal Build

[omiotek]

Well after my introduction I can say I have talked to quite a few cool people on here. So I think it's time to start a build thread since I have officially torn into the car.

 

The back story: Originally I was not planning to buy another car as I have 2 current projects that I'm always messing with. Anyways for my wedding my fiancé and I were looking for a vintage car. Out of all the ones we have looked at we only likes a black and red Bentley Coupe. To rent the car for the amount of time we would need it for was going to be in the $2500 ball park. Neither one of us were to pleased with it but its something she really has her heart on.

 

After a few weeks of tossing the idea of this Bentley around my dad sent me a random text with an Ebay link attached to it with the following text. "How about this for your wedding?" I took a look and it was a 1938 Chrysler Royal. Never in a million years did I think I would ever have an old car like this. I am more of a modern performance guy but I do appreciate old cars. Well eventually we won the auction and we drove up to Michigan to pick it up. Upon site I was pretty pleased with what we had on our hands. Literally almost everything was there minus some little things(later they were found).

 

My idea with this car isn't to do a picture perfect restoration. I will be painting it how I want but the body styling of the car will be original. No hot rod stuff here.

 

So here's a few refresh pics from when I got the car home. The car had the title and keys believe it or not.

 

 

On Sunday I started doing some little things. I found the missing shift knob under the seat

Heres a few floor shots.... Not to bad in my opinion.

Edited May 20, 2014 by omiotek

[omiotek]

I got everything in the bay relatively situated as there was a lot of debris and things that weren't connected. I have a list of parts and cleaning stuff on the way before I even think about firing this thing up.

 

AC STLL WORKS!!!!!!

 

 

I took off the inner fenders and got them taken apart so I can get the front end to the blaster next week,

 

I don't have pictures of them totally disassembled but they are. I also got the seat track and everything totally out and im going to clean them up and get them painted as its a relatively easy task to just finish up. Also I got some stuff boxed up for the chromers depending on how much they want to charge me. Might just end up with powdercoating on some of the stuff since a friend of mine does it.

[desoto1939]

Since your 38 seems to be still original and when you took off the side panels to the hood is the color on the underside a dark black with a sort of green tint to the inside sufaces?  If this is that way and not the color of the car then this is the factory color for the insdes. They did not paint these inside parts the same color as the car.  i have a 39 Desoto that had this dark black greenish paint sort of an primer paint.  Also note to see if the under side of the hood is the same way.  Take pictures of these panels for future reference if you are going to paint the car and if you want to keep it as original looking as possible.  Most owners just paint these sections the same as the body color.

 

But if you plan to have it AACA judges then pictures will save you when the judges questionor want to take off any points.  You have a great starting point and will have a fine car when you are done.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[RobertKB]

You have your work cut out for you but it should be a great project. Good luck with it and keep the updates and pictures coming. We love pictures! 

 

Just out of interest, the shifter knob, although it looks old, is not the factory original.

[40plyrod]

Looks like a very nice project, I'll keep watching. Good luck.

[omiotek]

Oh well I was really hoping it was the original.

Anyways what do you use for batteries in these cars? Anything specific?

[desoto1939]

If your Battery is under the set you can use any good 6volt BAttery. I think you might be a group 1 battery.  I use the NAPA 6 v but any one is fine.

 

If you are planning to have the car judged at an AACA event or Chrysler Convnetion and the battery is visable then you willneed to have the correct style tar top battery. If I remember correctly I think they used the Willard battery.  These are not cheap,but if you are planning to make this a fun car and a driver and take to local shows and are not a perfectionist then a general 6v battery will work.

 

It all depends on what you plan to do with the car.  During the rebuilding process get a generic bateery and then when finish then get a period correct if this is how far you want to go with the car. Also this should be a positive ground setup not negative ground check your data on the car. SO if Positive ground thenthe positive post battery cable will be going to the frame. 

 

ALso do not use 12 volt battery cable. The car will start when it is cold but when it get hot the 12 v will not carry enought juice to get the car start or it will struggle and grind to get started.  Yoiu willneed to get the 6v 0 gage battery cable to get enough electrical supply for the car.  We all have been there and done that.  Check all ground wires and clean up the contacts. Grounding is very important on 6v cars.

 

Rich Hartung  - Desoto1939@aol.com

[Lumpy]

That is like a dream find...rough enough that the price is right, but mostly just requiring some elbow (or lots) grease to make a nice driver, which is what I think your first post indicated.

 

On 6v batteries for 6v systems, my philosophy is get the best you can, don't spare the change.

 

Is the engine free and turning over? How much time do you have until the wedding? As the car looks like it has sat for a very long time, it might be wise to pull the head and check things out and clean things up. ?

 

These cars have a charm that trumps performance. I like performance, I have a Dart with a hot 360 in it, and a couple of motorcycles, but when I get in Lumpy, (my 1948 D24) I couldn't care less about power and performance...I'm transported back to the 1940's, and just watching the world go by through the split windshield puts a big smile on my face.

 

Having said that, there is always "fun" performance upgrades that you can do, such as dual carbs, shave the head, stuff like that. Just making an old flathead look pretty with some fresh paint and chrome makes you think it's got more power. !!!

 

Enjoy...good luck, and have fun.

[omiotek]

Thanks.

No this won't be a picture perfect aaca car. I just want a driver that will be as perfect as I can get it myself. The only things I'm outsourcing are parts and media blasting. Everything is else is bring done by me. I have till October 31st 2015 to get it done.

The engine does turn and the oil was liquid and not all sludgy but I'm going to pull the pan and valve covrt and check a few things and clean up. I just want to see if it will run l. If it does I'm going to yank it anyways and replace all the gaskets.

I do have my work cut out for me but I will get things done as I can.

[54Illinois]

Good idea to drop the pan.  You can tell a lot by what is going on in there from underneath. 

[omiotek]

Very true.... That's why I want do it. Better to be safe then sorry

[Lumpy]

Pulling the head would also be worthwhile, and easier than pulling the pan, check for stuck valves, condition of the cylinders, and de-carbon while it's off. In fact, I'd pull the head before the pan, then start it up. If there's anything wrong with the lower end, you'll hear it.

 

Looking again at the pics, that car looks like it was very well cared for before it was parked...(the more I look at the pics, the more I'm impressed at the fine condition)...lower end problems would be unlikely, but any engine could use a de-carbon job. Again, I think the most likely possible problem with the engine would be some stuck valves. Looking at the cylinder walls will tell you how many miles is on it. Looking at the crank and rod ends won't really tell you anything unless you take the rod caps off...a long dirty laying on your back job.

Edited May 21, 2014 by Lumpy

[omiotek]

This is true main point of taking the pan is just clean it out. The engine rotates freely. I'm drilling my scope down in there soon to I can get an idea of what's going on without yanking too much apart. I just wanna see if it fires quickly and I will tear it apart when th bodies off

[Lumpy]

I have found some strange things in the bottom of oil pans, aside from gunk and muck. Have you drained the oil yet? That might tell you if you want to do that. But if you are planning to pull the head and pan later, I think I'd just change the oil and try to start it. But again, after a long sit I'd think that stuck valves would be most likely, in which case she won't want to start. On the other hand, some old engines fire right up.

 

Where was it stored, and under what conditions? In a "sunshine" state, dry conditions/climate? That's what it looks like.

 

When you try to start it, video it if you can. That might be a cool one, "Dodge starts and runs fifty years later". Or something like that.

 

ken.

[omiotek]

Not to sure about the storage...the guy I bought it from had it in a climate controlled garage with his collection. Prior to that Idk and he doesn't know either. I haven't drained it yet but the oil on the dip stick is liquid still so I'm hoping for the best......

I'm just going to do some basic things and try firing it to see what happens. If it doesn't fire the engine has to come out anyways. I will be making a video as well haha. If it does fire it will be awesome and I will be a happy camper.

[RobertKB]

My money is on it firing quickly!

[omiotek]

That's where I want to put my money too.....

[Don Coatney]

My money is in my pocket. Do I win?

[omiotek]

Edited August 29, 2014 by omiotek

[omiotek]

[omiotek]

[omiotek]