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lowering the rear '50 coupe


derek_m

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Right now I have 3" blocks and a couple leaves pulled from the spring packs....and the rear still sits a bit higher then the front....is 4 link and coilovers my only option to go lower? Anyone have photos of how they setup their car? Thanks!

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Saw that thread, doesn't help any. Usually can't find much of anything with the search.

Does anyone have photos or input on a 4 link in these cars? I don't think I can get anymore drop out of the leaf/block unless I do a 4" block.

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Check out "50 Freak". He's on YouTube and Hamb, maybe even here. There are many more mostly on the Hamb but some here. In my opinion 3" block is already too much and I would not go to a 4". Scrub lines and wrapping on rear springs is multiplied many times with blocks. This comes from a person who lowers all his old cars. Poise makes a super slide spring with reversed eyes and a better ride that will start you at about 2" below stock (non sagging spring) height. Add a 2" block and you are about the safe limits of a leaf sprung car. Any more and go with a 4 link and bags.

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MAN I love going low because I'm a stance guy but if you are going below the scrub line wich you are most likely all ready at you are playing with fire. I'm more interested with what you did to the fron to get it so lowered that you cant get the rear to match as well because its easier to correctly drop the rear than the front! The only safe way past 2" blocks is air ride my man.

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I've got three inch blocks and sagging rear springs that give me 4-5" of drop.  I'm right at the scrub line on a factory 16" rim. I've had a flat in the rear and nothing actually scraped the ground.  I'm sure it was close though.  

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MAN I love going low because I'm a stance guy but if you are going below the scrub line wich you are most likely all ready at you are playing with fire. I'm more interested with what you did to the fron to get it so lowered that you cant get the rear to match as well because its easier to correctly drop the rear than the front! The only safe way past 2" blocks is air ride my man.

 

Air ride WITH C-notch.  I went with Posies 3" Super Slide rear lowering springs, removed a couple leaves & added 1" blocks (using my stock U-bolts). Rides decent, not a lot of travel, & NO scrub line issues. Any lower & I would go with a C-notch, 4 link, & bags.

Edited by deathbound
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There's other things that can cause a vibration. Tires out of balance, bent rims, u joints not phased on the driveshaft, driveshaft out of balance, bent driveshaft, belt shifts on the tires, rough brgs in the axles front or rear, loose steering parts. The other problem may be the amount of torque that can be applied to the rear spring. Those lowering blocks give a mechanical advantage over no blocks and may be wrapping the springs a bit which will alter the pinion angle. I wouldn't expect that to be the most likely cause but if it didn't vibrate before the blocks and does after and nothing else was changed, it's the results of the blocks

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