sig Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Have you done a compression test?? What are your readings? nope..don´t know how to...I know it is guzzling petrol at the moment and needs some choke to run smooth..also there is some exhaust coming out of the oil filler tube when running..is this anything to worry about?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I have never ran a starter motor as long as you did. I am surprised the starter motor did not burn up. I do short bursts only 3-5 seconds with longer cool down times between attempts to start the engine. And you should never run an engine with no coolant for even a short time. Did you see the steam coming out of the engine? That will cause damage very quickly. If you do a forum search for compression tests you can learn how to do one on your engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I ran my little Ford Ranger around my property for over a year with no radiator. I just connected the lower radiator hose to the upper hose with some tubing, and watch the temp gauge, heater sure worked good. Engine too cold or too hot is not good.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 fear not... radiator now rigged up again, new oil in and starts within 3 seconds....lovely sound, really is, a bit of a lumpy idle, I ´m not sure if thats normal. also I noticed the exhaust has been crushed , probably by the forklift, which can´t help its breathing. I´ll probably try and sort out the rear inner wings tomorrow, and rebuild the rot on the wings so I can start to visualise for the channeling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeywolf Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Are you going to strip down to the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 yep I think so, it needs and deserves it, but I can´t take the bodywork off until its more ...err....substantial ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 I ran my little Ford Ranger around my property for over a year with no radiator. I just connected the lower radiator hose to the upper hose with some tubing, and watch the temp gauge, heater sure worked good. Engine too cold or too hot is not good.. That is why I said with no coolant, not with no radiator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 hi all...can someone confirm that andy bernbaum spares as good and reliable etc..just about to order a bunch of stuff from him I think...the carb has started leaking so I need a rebulit kit, and fuel pump , window rubbers etc cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 been ripping into the rot!..a scary job but rewarding. I´m replacing all the lower door skins and door floors with stainless, the rear wings have been slightly widened and tacked into place. also the (very complicated) driver sill is done and strong. there is some slight rust growing under the paint so I´m trying to strip it all back to steel then anti rust phosphates to kill it before primer it looks a right sight at the moment but I guess everything has to get worse before it gets better ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 the jaguar front suspension is in place pending the new reinforcement and couplings..I think it looks quite " stealth" which is important for the inspectors. the size fits well, and I managed to save the upper part of the old crossmember. the lower part was toast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builtfercomfort Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Better check the rest of that frame as well. That looks quite gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 yep I will do..I´m guessing it had a leaking radiator in the past and no escape for the moisture down there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 yep I will do..I´m guessing it had a leaking radiator in the past and no escape for the moisture down there There was a drain hole in the bottom,and mice liked to crawl up in there and build nests. They would urinate in the nests,and the result was rusted out crossmembers. My diesel GMC truck only gets driven maybe once a week,and I have to pull mice nests out of the front bumper and grille area a couple of times a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 its standing on its own 4 wheels!...(albeit temporary ones), the new crossmember is fixed along with the new shock mounts and all hunky dory so far..shouldnt be too difficult to attach the old steeringf to the new rack and pinion either Iñm pleased with how its going and having great fun harley, after a bit of digging I found the 8mm hole..it really should be 20mm or something no? heres the pix with the beefy jag wheels (and a sneak peak at the 46 ford just inside the workshop that I´m doing for a client) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 harley, after a bit of digging I found the 8mm hole..it really should be 20mm or something no? heres the pix with the beefy jag wheels (and a sneak peak at the 46 ford just inside the workshop that I´m doing for a client) Since 13mm is a half-inch,I'm guessing somewhere around 20mm would be about right. BTW,that sure is a straight and clean 46 Ford pu. You do nice metal work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Sig...........have you measured and checked the Jag suspension travel as compared to what was the original suspension?........reason I ask is that the way that you have the suspension installed makes me think that it will be VERY high at the front, 4 wheel drive territory......if you compare where the original upper A Arms were located and their semi horizontal aspect and compared to the Jag upper A arms which appear to be about 4-5" below where the Dodge arms were then this is gunna sit very high.....looking at it all I'd be trying to mount the Jag front crossmember much further into the Dodge chassis.......this is basically the way this style of front end is mounted in hotrods here in Oz, the original Dodge crossmember is a pain I must admit....also where did the car come from in the USA?, that amount of chassis rust makes me think that it came from a salted road state......btw have you found a workshop manual yet?..........lol.......not trying to be critical but just concerned that it looks & handles o/k........regards, andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 yeah I had wondered that andy as the bumper supposrts seem a lot higher now, but I´ve just been to check and the actual height of the top of the old cross member is about 2 inches higher than before...(with the reduced diametre tyres), I´m guessing that the jag engine is much heavier than the flatty because the jag suspension is basically fully open..as if it had no weight on it at all. I´m wary not to start cutting coils and stuff as I don´t know yet whether the big jag engine will go in eventually or not.. so at present my theory is that it´ll go down by 10cm ( 3 or 4 inches ) anyway with the body drop...so I´m just going to go with the flow for the moment. If I chop the chassis anymore it becomes really obvious that there have been changes, and the inspectors won´t like that. also I´m loving the nose high stance on these dodges at the moment...so we´ll see it was from north carollina (although the newyork taxi theory is still in play ) I also think it was stood in long grass for a few years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I'd be surprised if the Jag is much if any heavier than the Mopar as the only aluminium the mopar has is its pistons, lol, but the Jag has an alloy head, etc......btw are those the remains of the Jag upper shock mounts that are sitting on the top of the chassis?.......most rodders here replace the Jag shocks with a shock that has an "eye" at the top rather than leave the Jag "pin" upper mount........getting back to the ride height, have you compared the rear bumper mount height with the height that the front ones sit at, whilst not abosolutely accurate it should give you an idea, also have you bolted the front fenders, okay, "wings" back on at the cowl, that should show you where the tyre will sit in relation to the fender opening...........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 ok, so you got me wondering about the stance..so I rigged it back together to check a few things. the tyre to the wheel opening is 12cm (5 inches up front ) and 10cm out the back..and yes it does look like a 4 x 4 !.......the 10cm channeling will bring it back to a normal looking ride height with a bit of a heavy looking tail (which I want) I would love to just get on with the body drop now, but I´ve learnt from other projects that its much more sensible to leave it until later to save back ache. (working on a lower car is much more difficult) plymouthy has expressed some worries about the strength of the cut down chassis. as yet its not finished and various flanges need to be extended etc. also its important to understand the jag set up.. the weight is distributed from the springs through the cross member to 2 "arms " that fall towards the back of the car and are attached between the engine mounts and the 1st set of body mounts (at that point the chassis is untouched and super strong)..2 other mounts from the cross member go directly to the engine mounts ( via big rubbers ) and the smallest 2 mounts are where the old suspension arms used to fit..but these are small flexible rubber mounted things which seem more about location and stabilisation than taking the weight (the original jag bolts there are M10 diametre only) my way of working is quite odd!...I like to grow these projects organically and visualise as I go.. there is no great master plan apart from getting it through the first technical exam as a historic vehicle ( with no rust!) from then on I see the car going into phase 2 of its development anyway heres the pix from the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builtfercomfort Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 From the look of the last pic, the front wheels are too far forward. Can you center them on the wheel well better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Your progress is such a short time is impressive. Hopefully the inspectors go easy on the car...and you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeywolf Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Progress is remarkably quick are you working on the car full time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 haha ! don´t believe the hype you 2 !..rmember theres still a massive hole where the floor should be and the pix are always from the side I can access..other side and back not advanced yet. but yes I´m pleased with how its going...theres a big (and pretty much the only ) hot rod show in spain in may..I´d like to be able to trailer something down at least I´m also doing a 46 ford pickup for a client at the same time along with the furniture stuff (day job)...its all go and great fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 big day today, got the body dropped down by 10 or 11 cm (4 and a bit inches)..it now looks right and less like a 4 x 4 . took the rest of the floor out, braced everything , dropped the back first and then the whole of the afternoon tweaking the various cuts and stuff that needed doing, the starter pedal will need raising and the pedals shortening. the angle of the steering wheel will be changed a bit to aid access also (it needs connecting to a UJ anyway to fit onto the jag steering setup. starting to hate those jag wheels up front !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 welded the rot in the drivers side rear inner wing and made up a skirt to try out the art deco streamliner look! I think I like it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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