12 volt on fluiddrive car

[Phil Martin]

I want to change my 50 dodge to 12 volt. I'm sure this has been done. My problem is how to keep 6 volts to the fluid drive. Any help is appreciated.

[Don Coatney]

The fluid drive requires no electrical power. I dont understand your question.

[wdoland]

Models M-5 and M-6 operate on a combination of electric circuitry and hydraulics.

 

[Don Coatney]

M-5 and M-6 are transmissions, not the fluid drive unit.

[48mirage]

I want to change my 50 dodge to 12 volt. I'm sure this has been done. My problem is how to keep 6 volts to the fluid drive. Any help is appreciated.

Try this  http://koolcars.us/catalog.html

[Phil Martin]

Sorry I have gyromatic it uses elect to shift.

[Phil Martin]

kool cars reducer sounds like the easy way to go. Thank you 48 mirage

[Don Coatney]

Call George Asche as I believe he has or can get 12 volt coils. His contact information can be found in the links section.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Ohm's law will get you where you want to go..

[wdoland]

Chrysler offered its “semi-automatic” transmission in combination with the fluid coupling. The semi-automatic transmission consists of the fluid coupling, a two-speed manual transmission. The early models (M-4) operate on engine vacuum (“vacamatic”), while the later models (M-5 and M-6) operate on a combination of electric circuitry and hydraulics. There is an electric solenoid for shifting the transmission.

 

[mike00]

if you're still running the 6-volt system, check the current in the line youre concerned with (or any line that would need six volts with a 12 volt battery/gen system installed) if its a pretty steady current (when operating) you could just line up diodes to drop the voltage. i'd imagine that theres a bit of variance there (like 12V-14V on a "12V" system) so chances are you could get away with this.

theres fancy formulas for the dynamic resistance of a diode, (varies slightly with current) but generally, most silicon diodes will drop between 0.6V and 0.7V a piece. so if you line up ten of them in series, they will drop 6-7 volts (whatever they would drop, it would drop the same at all times, tune within .7V or so by adding/removing) (if an amp or less these could be soldered together and shrink wrapped to look like a 2 inch long piece of 10 guage wire) (15A diodes are about the size of a pencil eraser) you could also use a single zener diode (in reverse bias) or a combination, like if you find a 5V zener, use that, in reverse bias, along with two regular diodes in forward bias to drop approximately 6.2-6.4 volts. (out of 12-14, leaving 5.8-7.6)  just if you do that make sure you put the zener in reverse or it will only drop the same as the other two (about 1.8-2.1 total, leaving around 10-12 volts) possibly burning the coil in that solenoid on that valve in your transmission.

 

as with anything, always better to check one more time, than one fewer time.

 

also solid state voltage regulators are cheap and precise. that way it'd stay at a nice steady 6V no matter what the battery/gen are at  but if its just for a solenoid, the diodes should work fine.

6V ss regulators such as the LM7806 (good up to 1A) can be had for less than a dollar.

ones up to 20-30A will come in a T0-3 package (such as the one in the article linked to above) in this case,

(and id hope the instructions mention this) the output (positive output if a positive regulator) is usually connected to the TO-3 case of the regulator, which is connected to the heatsink, which probally connects to your cars body. (these can be electrically insulated from the heatsink)

 

this raises another question, as these cars are factory positive ground, will it remain that way, or will you convert it to negative ground?

 

if this is any help to you, (or if you just feel like being nice) please chime in here:http://p15-d24.com/topic/34445-found-a-nice-solid-50-meadowbrook-things-to-look-for/#entry347754 as i need help with what to look for in a simmilar car, a 1950 meadowbrook. for which if i buy, I'll probally be dreaming up a way to keep charge on an auxilliry 12V battery from the existing 6V system (just to make it hard on myself)

Edited October 14, 2013 by mike00

[50net]

hey mike00, new to this site, been reading your guestions.just curious which car you decided on? if you did.i have a 50 coronet purchased 1yr ago.everthing stock as she was made from factory.i was also thinking about all the upgrades,but then if she made it all these years why change it.the car is older than me and probably outlast me too

[mike00]

I'm still looking for a nice '50 Meadowbrook or Coronet. I could do without it, but after I find one and check it over and everything, I'll probally add a 12V conveinence outlet just for random accessories.

Edited February 19, 2014 by mike00

[DonaldSmith]

If you just want 12-volt convenience outlets, you can add a battery, without changing over all the 6-volt stuff. .

I added a second 6-volt battery to get 12 volts for a pusher fan and for convenience outlets (GPS, cell phone, etc.). 

This auxiliary battery has the negative post grounded to the chassis.  

I get the 12 volts between its positive post and the negative (live) post of the main battery.  

Occasionally I have to put a charger to the auxiliary battery, but a 6-volt alternator keeps the main battery charged.

[mike00]

Thats a good way to do it. If you wanted to use a 12V battery, you could actually charge it off of a 6V alternator (but not a 6v generator) at the same time as the 6v (original voltage plus 6v+). I like your way too. if you wanted you could add a switch something like this... (see pic) of course you wouldn't be able to use your 12V stuff while charging, but you could charge it without hooking it up to a charger.

 

resistor value depends on charge limit, which depends on charge rate - - depends on how sturdy of a switch, alternator capacity, battery condition, etc. - - - the switch is a "double pole double throw" (dpdt) switch NON-SHORTING (or "break before make") type contacts - - using shorting or "make before break" types will burn something

 

also its never a bad idea to throw fuses in there wherever they seem to fit

Edited February 20, 2014 by mike00

[Don Coatney]

Thats a good way to do it. If you wanted to use a 12V battery, you could actually charge it off of a 6V alternator (but not a 6v generator) at the same time as the 6v (original voltage plus 6v+). I like your way too. if you wanted you could do something like this... (see pic) of course you wouldn't be able to use your 12V stuff while charging, but you could charge it without taking it out of the car.

No picture. Please explain further.

[mike00]

http://p15-d24.com/gallery/image/1890-aux-battery-6-12v/

[mike00]

unlike a generator, an alternator alternates current, and voltage.... AC.  its rectified

making pics now

[Don Coatney]

If I understand your drawing you are using 2 six volt batteries with an either/or switch to direct what battery gets charged. Is that correct?

[mike00]

No, Two six volts batteries, The main battery is always hooked up as normal. The Auxiliry battery can either be charged in parallel with the main system, or can add the 6 volts above ground to make 12 for the accessories. but not both at the same time.

[mike00]

what i meant when i said "If you wanted to use a 12V battery, you could actually charge it off of a 6V alternator" was that you can, an alternator typically works as such, frequency being a multiple of engine speed

the alternators probally a three phase design, but the ideas the same (just uses more diodes)

[mike00]

in order to use a six volt alternator to charge a 12 volt system, while still charging the six volt system, you could add something like this, to double the voltage, note the ripple frequency is half what it was before, making the ripple voltage (little sawtooth looking bit on the waveform towards the output) double what it is using it for 6v

 

also this system could be used with a large capacitor and no second battery if not too much current is required at 12V, but without a battery, all 12V power would be dead when the motor isnt running.

Edited February 20, 2014 by mike00

[Phil Martin]

the electrics for gyromatic get power from ign coil. After I changed to 12 volt and put a resistor between ign and coil I checked voltage from coil. It was still 6 volts so I left wires for gyro hooked the way they were. All works fine. I don't understand why I had to change to 12 volt coil and the drop voltage to 6 volt. I know I changed one before and burned up points until I put a resistor on it. Hope this makes sense.

[mike00]

it may be a setup with 6V points, are they the original style points?

[Don Coatney]

it may be a setup with 6V points, are they the original style points?

All points are designed to operate on 6 volts.