Re-wiring my P-15

[steveplym]

I got up early this morning and pulled the windshield trim and the dash. The job was not too bad at all. Once I took the time to read the manual on how to remove the head light switch knob everything else went pretty smooth.

Started by removing all the tape from wiring harnesses so I could better determine what each wire was connected to. So far nothing has been different than the wiring diagram. That has made it much easier. I was able to take the inline fuses apart and rewire them into the new circuits. This makes everything go together much better.

I only replaced about 9-10 circuits today. Started out by doing the shorter wires and working my way up to the headlight and horn circuits. I've been going off the gauge on the p-17 wiring diagram and using the same gauge or larger. Using a lot of 10 and 12 gauge. Some 14 gauge on the smaller circuits.

Started a photobucket album with some of my progress. Posting a link here and will add to it as time allows me to get back in the garage.

Hope everyone had a good holiday weekend!

http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u122/siufan6/Plymouth%20wiring%20project/

[mackster]

I will keep an eye on this thread as I started to do mine with a kit and got lost somewhere in the steering wheel column and gauges (dash) it's not too fun, but I will copy anything you do right! MKSTR!

[Normspeed]

Steve, was the under dash stuff pretty dry and crumbly or still OK?

Mackster, I thought your wiring looked pretty much like you had it installed.

[Frank Blackstone]

Tell me again how easy it is 'cause those pictures make it look harder than Chinese arithmetic. As I get older my definition of the ease at which tasks are accomplished has become more conservative and narrower. Keep me informed and let me know your opinion when everything works and dose not smoke when activated. Good luck, Frank

[Normspeed]

The parts that I've rewired so far, it gets easier if you remove the black wrapping tape like Steve did do you can see the actual color you are replacing, and just work on making one wire at a time, end to end.

[bob_amos]

The job on these older cars is not bad at all. It's the new ones with multiple computers that can get you into trouble. I have been doing this for a living for over 40 years and try to get people to just jump in on their vintage cars all the time. Many are affraid as to what they can screw up. But there is nothing that cannot be corrected if that were to occure. But then, I get newer cars in my shop all the time where the owner can't even find the opening for the keys and they try working on their electrical systems only to do a real mees up job to their cars. Go figure. Anyway, I am happy to see that you didn't let it keep you from doing the job. Also, glad you told everyone here how easy it is. Maybe more will give it a try.

[BobT-47P15]

Seeing those pictures made me want spaghetti for dinner........... :)

I think you are getting there.

What inline fuses did you find? The only fuses I know of in a P15 are on the rear of the headlight switch, the radio and perhaps the heater.

[mackster]

Mackster, I thought your wiring looked pretty much like you had it installed.

it's done except for the steering column and the switches for the lights and other misc. stuff, my biggest problem is that all my parts are from several different vehicles and models so I have to retrace every single thing in order to work. Get this, I just put in my generator with a steering pump and it turned out to be 6V from a 51 desoto Hemy 276. talk about a mess, now I have to get a step dow nfrom 12V to six to feed the generator, will it charge the 12Vac battery? I don't know....

[Don Coatney]

I just put in my generator with a steering pump and it turned out to be 6V from a 51 desoto Hemy 276. talk about a mess, now I have to get a step dow nfrom 12V to six to feed the generator, will it charge the 12Vac battery? I don't know....

Not sure what you need to feed the generator as it is an output device. A 6 volt generator will not charge a 12 volt battery if that is your question. You should be able to find a drop in 12 volt generator (and voltage regulator) from a later 50,s Mopar. Or possibly a better option would be a 12 volt alternator.

[steveplym]

Seeing those pictures made me want spaghetti for dinner........... :)

I think you are getting there.

What inline fuses did you find? The only fuses I know of in a P15 are on the rear of the headlight switch, the radio and perhaps the heater.

Right, there is one from the ignition switch to the flasher and the headlamp switch. Haven't found any others yet.

Steve, was the under dash stuff pretty dry and crumbly or still OK?

Everything under tape was still in decent shape visibly. The wires that were exposed were pretty crumbly and cracking.

Will be a much safer ride when it is finished.

[steveplym]

I received my replacement turn signal switch today that I ordered off of ebay and hope to install in within the next two weeks.

My hydraulic brake switch has been giving me fits and by following some of the suggestions on here I called Watson street works and ordered a mechanical switch. Hope to get that installed the next few weeks as well.

A neighbor came over and sold me a few 802 radios. They've been sitting a few years, but appear to be in good shape. What are the odds one of these radios may work? Anyone have a wiring diagram or know what wires connect to what?

I'd like to add an original radio and wire it into my new harness if possible.

Gonna be tough not to be able to drive it for a few weeks, but will be well worth the wait once the project is complete.

[BobT-47P15]

On that turn signal, the green end of the handle has a bulb in it, which flashes as an indicator that your signal is working. Once you install it, if the bulb does not flash, the unit may need additional grounding. Mine does not work just right, but I have added other indicator lights below the dash which may have messed it up.

The only bad thing about these signals is you have to remember to cancel them yourself after turning. Sometimes I remember, sometimes I'm like "grandpa" driving down the street with light blinking for a while. I can't hear the click emitted by the flasher under the dash.

[BobT-47P15]

Those radios only have a couple wires coming from them. One is for power, with a fuse in the line. The other should have a plug on the end to plug into back of the original electromagnetic speaker.

That "L" bracket is a support for the weight of the radio, attaches to the vent brace under middle of the dash. Did you get any knobs, nuts, etc for where it goes thru the dash? Often times the tubes are OK, but the capacitors are shot due to old age. There is a vibrator that sometimes can be limbered up by taking it out and tapping it on the workbench to jog the spring or whatever is inside.

There was recently a discussion here about using a replacement, current style speaker. You don't need all the connecting wires in the bundle for the old style one....just one or two. Can't remember who started that thread.

The radio turns on by pushing one of the buttons.....check the writing beside them closely.

[steveplym]

Bob,

The non-cancelling switch is not a big deal as I already have an older switch in the car that does the same thing. Contacts are worn out on that switch and wires are not good. That is why I am replacing it.

I do have a question about the bulb. I guess I will need to replace it with a 6v bulb? Where can I find one of these? I assume use a flashlight bulb?

On the radio, all the radio knobs and face are in tact. I guess I should just hook some power up to it and see if it works. If not I'll probably troubleshoot it and see what I need to do to fix it.

Thanks for the help.

[mackster]

] I just put in my generator with a steering pump and it turned out to be 6V from a 51 desoto Hemy 276. talk about a mess, now I have to get a step dow nfrom 12V to six to feed the generator, will it charge the 12Vac battery? I don't know....

Not sure what you need to feed the generator as it is an output device. A 6 volt generator will not charge a 12 volt battery if that is your question. You should be able to find a drop in 12 volt generator (and voltage regulator) from a later 50,s Mopar. Or possibly a better option would be a 12 volt alternator.

Just replaced the alternator, I need the generator because it has a power steering pump piggy back on the rear, to get the steering goin, and yeah you are right I meant if I were to wire it up to my 12V system it would not charge my battery as it is a 6V Generator, what do you suggest?

[james curl]

Take it to a good starter/generator shop and have them convert it to 12 volts, they can rebuild it at the same time. Should be less than $100.00. The power steering pump probably should be rebuilt also.

[Don Coatney]

]

I need the generator because it has a power steering pump piggy back on the rear

Suggest you change your bracketry to eleminate the generator as it is doing nothing for you except adding unnessary weight and rotating mass.

[Plymouthy Adams]

If I were in the need for a PS pump..I think I would get a small pump with the remote reservoir and adapt it to my needs. The 54 Plymouth I came across int he junkyard was equipted with factory Power Steering...

[steveplym]

I just received my mechanical brake switch in the mail from Watson street works. I know some of you have installed these on your p-15 to eliminate the hydraulic switch. Does anyone have photos or an explanation as how this can best be installed on a p-15?

[mackster]

Take it to a good starter/generator shop and have them convert it to 12 volts, they can rebuild it at the same time. Should be less than $100.00. The power steering pump probably should be rebuilt also.

Thanks James, I just spoke with one today and they told me they can rebuild it and convert it for about 100 bucks your like a mind reader and stuff

[Normspeed]

Tim, that sounds like a scarce setup. Might be worth grabbing for future use, or for ebay.

If I were in the need for a PS pump..I think I would get a small pump with the remote reservoir and adapt it to my needs. The 54 Plymouth I came across int he junkyard was equipted with factory Power Steering...

Mackster, call me when it's time to hook up the battery. I need to field test a new smoke capturing device I invented. You can catch all the smoke that escapes and then re-install it in the wires and stuff afterwards.

[mackster]

Mackster, call me when it's time to hook up the battery. I need to field test a new smoke capturing device I invented. You can catch all the smoke that escapes and then re-install it in the wires and stuff afterwards.

HA HA HA I will, you can help me clean out all the burn marks from the walls after I connect the battery.... MKSTR!

[Don Coatney]

Does anyone have photos or an explanation as how this can best be installed on a p-15?

I installed my mechanical switch onder the floor board so the arm makes contact with the brake pedal. With the switch installed this way I can activate the brake lights long before the brakes are actually engaged. The arm on my switch was longer than yours.

[Norm's Coupe]

I just received my mechanical brake switch in the mail from Watson street works. I know some of you have installed these on your p-15 to eliminate the hydraulic switch. Does anyone have photos or an explanation as how this can best be installed on a p-15?

I have the Watson switch on my coupe. It's installed in about the same place as Don pictured his. It installed outside the car next to the pedal arm. It's not hard to install. However, to make life easier I had to go to the hardware store and buy a long drill bit to drill the holes due to all the stuff under the car there. Just follow the instructions step by step. To locate the best spot you'll have to crawl under the car and hold the switch up there, then mark your spot. Then mount the switch so the arm is on top of the pedal arm. (in between the floor and pedal arm, with the nylon roller making contact with the pedal arm). Once you have the switch mounted you can then adjust the arm to have the brake light come on as fast as you want it to. (see instructions on adjusting the switch arm). Actually, it's best to have two people for mounting the switch. Someone in the car and someone under it. The person in the car can put the mounting screws in the floor for you to and hold them while you put the nuts on. Then the person in the car can operate the brake pedal when you are trying to adjust it. They can see the amp meter jump when the switch is activated. That way you can fine tune it like I did. I have mine set so you just barely touch the brake pedal and the light comes on.

It's best not to sit and read the instructions in the house. Go out, crawl under the car and then read the instructions and just place the switch by hand as you read them. They will make more sense that way.

[steveplym]

Thanks for the input Don and Norm.

I've been out of town all weekend and hope to continue rewiring it this week.

Once it is all rewired I'll be ready to install the switch. I'll take more pics this week as the project continues.