Can't Read Timing Marks on Crank Pulley

[Guest philedmonds]

I have done all I can to clean up the timing marks on the crank pulley so I can set the timing properly (1949 B1FA). Unfortunately I still can read the marks and can't find a picture in any of my manuals. I can see what pretty clearly looks like a "10" and 10 marks off from that another marking I can't make out. It looks like it might be "DC" (dead center?). If it is "20" I really have the timing off! Can someone tell me what the markings are or post a readable picture? Thanks.

[greg g]

Usually the scale goes from 10 or 15 BTDC to 10 or 15 ATDC with O or TDC centered in the scale So if you can find the ends and then the middle, you can make your own scale by dividing the segments equally with 5 lines on each side of 0 will give you 2 or 3 degree increments. Close enough for these old engines.

[Guest philedmonds]

Thanks. I still have a question. The lines themselves are readable and there is a center line that is bigger than the others. There are 5 small lines on each side of the long one and then a medium size line. Then there are 5 small ones and then a medium size line at each end. There is no marking on the center line. One of the end lines has a "10" on it and the the one on the other end (farthest away from left side of engine) has a marking that I can't read. If I assume the center one is 0 degrees (TDC) then the one I can't read should be 10 degrees as well. It may be - I just can't get it cleaned up to see it definitively.

The book says to set the timing at 0 degrees at curb idle and it should advance to 20 degrees total advance under higher RPMs. i assume that one has to "guess" at the 20 degrees since the timing marks don't go that high. Is that correct. Thanks much for your help.

[greg g]

Seems like the medium length lines would be at 5 degrees at the middle point of the ten degree arch. You could measure the scale and extend it if you want to see if you are getting full advance. But you seem to have it scoped out. If one end is at 10 degrees, the other end will be also. I currently run at about 6 degree BTDC at idle. My reaction to an article that says today's fuels have a slower flame front than in the old days. Whoooomph instead of bang, so igniting it sooner in anticipation of the cylinder reaching TDC, puts the major part of the combustion back at tdc.

[Merle Coggins]

Or you get a timing light with an advance adjustment. Then you can dial in 20 degrees on the light and you should see the "0" mark at full 20 degrees advance.

[grey beard]

Mr. Clemens,

These marks are often quite indistinct - hard to see, too. I cleaned mine with a wire wheel and then painted TDC white with a small brush. These marks are not easy to read on PIlorhouse applications with all the sheet metal in place. My B1B nose is still off, so it was more accessible. Anything you can do to make them more visible while things are apart will be helpful down the road for maintenance tune-ups, etc. JMHO:)

[billwillard]

I keep a bottle of typing white out in my garage for marking. Dryes fast like now.

BILL