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Posted

hey guys anybody have some good advise on adjusting window regulators. The story is.....we had the glass installed and the windows will not roll up straight, both sides get cocked. I have looked, but could not determin and adjustment to keep the glass straight when rolling up.

 

thanks for the help

 

-tom

Posted

Tom;

Just put mine in this past weekend. Do you have new channel in? Mine were a bit sticky and wanted to cock at first. Try lubing the regulator mechanism with White Litium grease. Also I sprayed the channels with RZ-50 dry film lube and this made a huge difference. Home depot sells both. After running up and down about a dozen times I reapplied the RZ-50. They work great now.

Hope this helps, Jeff

  • Like 2
Posted

Tom;

Just put mine in this past weekend. Do you have new channel in? Mine were a bit sticky and wanted to cock at first. Try lubing the regulator mechanism with White Litium grease. Also I sprayed the channels with RZ-50 dry film lube and this made a huge difference. Home depot sells both. After running up and down about a dozen times I reapplied the RZ-50. They work great now.

Hope this helps, Jeff

Hi Jeff,

 

yes, there is new channel in. I will put some white grease on the rails to see if this helps. if not i will use the dry film see if that does the trick.

 

thanks for the advise

 

-tom

 

oh yea, attached a pic of the truck :) (its my wife's)

post-3283-0-38544600-1375895122_thumb.jpg

Posted

there is also an adjustment nut/bolt on the lower side behind the door trim panel you can use to cant the assembly.  You also need to make sure there is enough play in where you set the front channel.

Posted

Tom;

Nice looking truck! :DI like the color........

The white grease on the metal to metal parts helped some......but the dry film lube is what really made a difference. I actually thought I was going to have to remove the glass and have it re-sized. Glad I tried it before removing the glass. Work'em up and down several times and don't be afraid of "helping" them get seated.

 

Jeff

Posted

Tom;

Nice looking truck! :DI like the color........

The white grease on the metal to metal parts helped some......but the dry film lube is what really made a difference. I actually thought I was going to have to remove the glass and have it re-sized. Glad I tried it before removing the glass. Work'em up and down several times and don't be afraid of "helping" them get seated.

 

Jeff

Thanks for the help Jeff, put some white grease on and used the adjustment nut behind the trim panel and they go up straight and smooth now YIPEE!!!

Posted (edited)

there is also an adjustment nut/bolt on the lower side behind the door trim panel you can use to cant the assembly. You also need to make sure there is enough play in where you set the front channel.

 

 

 

Thanks for the help Jeff, put some white grease on and used the adjustment nut behind the trim panel and they go up straight and smooth now YIPEE!!!

glad that the adjustment nut helped.   I had the same problem and was told of it...now I preach it!  :)  it's those little things that'll get you.

Edited by ggdad1951
Posted

You are right Mark. It is the little things ....and I never mentioned that adjustment. I assumed that this adjustment was not the issue and the new channel was a tight fit like mine. :o At first I thought I had a real problem with the glass sizing. But it just turned out to be a snug fit between the glass and the channel. That is fine by me as there is no excessive play in the glass and nothing rattles around inside the door. I love the solid sound the doors make now when you close them.

 

One of the little things that struck me as an oversight on the way these windows go together was the lack of a decent sealing surface between the trailing edge of the vent window and the division bar. If left like that it is has to be noisy and probably leak a bit. I remedied this on mine with a length of narrow bulb type peel and stick weather strip attached behind the small lip on that edge of the division bar. The stuff I used is off the rack at Home Depot and fit the division bar like it was made for it. This extra weather strip provides an effective sealing surface for the vent window and still allows for for up and down movement of the main window.

 

Jeff

Posted

yah, I debate about trimming my wing windo glass to line up better with the roll up, one looks and fits nice....the other has a tich of overlap...but I drive in summer and not in rain, so the roll downs are DOWN!  :P

Posted

:D Since this will be my daily driver I have to look at these issues a little differently. Not that it rains much here lately mind you...... but I think you would agree it should be fairly water tight. The fix was about as simple as could be and is almost invisble. I know it is not original but if you look closely at the division bar it sure looks like they had intended or considered fitting something here.

 

Jeff

Posted

:D Since this will be my daily driver I have to look at these issues a little differently. Not that it rains much here lately mind you...... but I think you would agree it should be fairly water tight. The fix was about as simple as could be and is almost invisble. I know it is not original but if you look closely at the division bar it sure looks like they had intended or considered fitting something here.

 

Jeff

there is supposed to be an L" shaped "fuzzy" in there.  It gets riveted with semi-tubular rivets in 4 places along it's length.

Posted

there is supposed to be an L" shaped "fuzzy" in there.  It gets riveted with semi-tubular rivets in 4 places along it's length.

 

I got my 'Vent division bar L-shaped fuzzy' from Andy B.

They still list them as A-381 in their catalog... http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-weatherstripping-dodge-and-plymouth-trucks-1948-1953.aspx .

I don't have the truck home at present to take a photo.

Interesting. I will have to keep an eye on this and report back after some time has past. My parts book does not show a weather strip of any sort in this location nor was there any evidence that any thing was ever riveted to the division bars I have. I do have extra fuzzy bar that I thought about using in this location but did not like the idea of cementing it in place. I never considered drilling holes for rivets. The bulb type stuff I did use seems to work just fine and is easily removed or renewed so if it doesn't work out I can always revisit this. Learn something new every day.

Jeff

Posted

My original had them so I knew what to do. ...

Posted

Mark;

Well it seems as if there must be more than one configuration of the divison bar. The parts book only calls out one item for each side with no reference to the fuzzy. Perhaps the fuzzy was not considered as a renewable item. Mine has a weather strip retainer at the top but no holes to attach it to. Could be they revised things a few times and made no notations in the parts book.

 

Jeff

Posted

Yah I think it wasn't meant as a service part tje fuzzy that is

  • 8 years later...
Posted
On 8/8/2013 at 3:30 PM, ggdad1951 said:

there is supposed to be an L" shaped "fuzzy" in there.  It gets riveted with semi-tubular rivets in 4 places along it's length.

 

Mark,  do you remember the diameter and length of rivets you used and where you got them from?

 

I just ordered  the Rigid Pile Lining from Restoration Specialties.  I also ordered some rivets just in case, but they aren't like the originals.  My original aluminum rivets were approximately .100" in diameter with a head not much larger and were probably about .100" long.  The only semi tubular rivets RS has are stainless rivets and I'm not inclined to use them unless I can't find anything else. 

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

Posted
16 hours ago, bkahler said:

 

Mark,  do you remember the diameter and length of rivets you used and where you got them from?

 

I just ordered  the Rigid Pile Lining from Restoration Specialties.  I also ordered some rivets just in case, but they aren't like the originals.  My original aluminum rivets were approximately .100" in diameter with a head not much larger and were probably about .100" long.  The only semi tubular rivets RS has are stainless rivets and I'm not inclined to use them unless I can't find anything else. 

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

oh geeze....SOOOO long ago!  :P

 

I got that from Roberts I believe

 

https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/l-channel-for-the-back-side-of-the-vent-window-rubber-dodge-trucks-1945-to-1965

 

I used semi-tubular rivets I got from work vendor as a sample....good chance I have some still.

Posted
1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

oh geeze....SOOOO long ago!  :P

 

I got that from Roberts I believe

 

https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/l-channel-for-the-back-side-of-the-vent-window-rubber-dodge-trucks-1945-to-1965

 

I used semi-tubular rivets I got from work vendor as a sample....good chance I have some still.

You trying to say you've slept since then? :) 

 

Roberts L channel  looks to be the same as the stuff from Restoration Specialties but is almost twice the price.  RS sells them for $20/pair.  

 

I measured one of the old rivets last night and it appears to be .100"/diameter by .120/long with a head of about .155"/diameter.  I found some semi-tubular rivets that are .095"/diameter by .125/long that I think will work.  I'm going to go ahead and order a box today.  

 

If these rivets don't work I might give you a shout....

 

Thanks!

 

 

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