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1949 Busy Coupe Update


falconvan

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Yeah, I did. I don't think the stock Ford Ranger 5 speed with the 8" clutch would last behind it plus I could see the overall costs getting way up there. I can build the engine and throw a 727 behind it for quite a bit less, plus sell the whole SHO setup to offset the costs.

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I've got a full size mid 90's Chev/GM 1/2 ton/Suburban 5 spd OD manual in my Roadster and I love it.  It's what you got if you ordered those vehicles with a manual trans.  Made by Getrag.  I've been told there is an equivalant for the full size Dodge trucks which probably had a 360.  Probably same bell housing bolt pattern as your 440.  If you're considering a manual, I'd recommend you check it out.  Stick even comes outta the floor where it should.  

Mine is currently on the garage floor at the moment and I could do measurements if you wish.

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Thanks but I think the Mopar big block bell housing pattern is different than the small blocks. Does that have a bolt on bell housing? Maybe someone makes a conversion.

No,....the bell housing is integral with the trans case.  However,....I'll bet you could get an adapter for the 440 to a GM automatic and that then (with a flywheel and clutch) puts you in business.  That's my combo for the Hemi to my GM manual.

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Butch's cool stuff sells mounts for the change over.

 

Maybe a 440?  :)

 

 

Not cheap but easier?

i-8412806-mopar-big-block-aluminum-bell-housing-tko.html

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Forgive me for not reading your earlier posts to find the answer to my questions,.... "stock steering?", "engine off-set?"  I'm thinking you'll need to do the off-set with a big block and stock steering.  I struggled with that and the dilemma festered until I used it to rationalize a new front susp.  I'm pleased that I did.  However, it took me several years longer to resolve because of the way I work my proclivity for over thinking  :o  

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I plan on keeping the stock steering and probably building headers to fit. The nice thing about using the B block mopar rather than the RB block is they are narrower. So you end up with a 470 that is 60 lbs lighter and narrower than a 440.

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I plan on keeping the stock steering and probably building headers to fit. The nice thing about using the B block mopar rather than the RB block is they are narrower. So you end up with a 470 that is 60 lbs lighter and narrower than a 440.

Cool!.......Now get the adapter to the GM 5 spd and you gotta real Hot Rod.

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Got the engine tore down and picked up a 440 crank this week. Everything looked good; probably could have ran the engine like it was the way the bearings looked. Off to the machine shop this week to see what everything looks like. I decided to go with the 451 stroker. That's the 400 block, turned down 440 crank, stock rods, and Keith Black stroker pistons. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got my block back from the machine shop; everything looked good and it cleaned up at .030. I blew my car budget for the month so I'll drop the crank off in a couple weeks. We're leaving next week for our 10th wedding anniversary so no car stuff for a few weeks. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Not much car stuff happening the last month; we had our little anniversary vacation and I recently went to work for IKEA as a Facility Manager for the new St Louis store. We're in the midst of construction and getting ready to open the store in about 8 weeks so it's been pretty nuts.

 

I decided to change the formula a bit and just go with a warmed over 400 rather than the stroker. Just going with a set of TRW forged flat tops, a bigger cam, some home porting on the heads and I picked up an old Edelbrock TM6 intake. It should be plenty for what I want and will save me a good bit of $ going this route. I got my heads cleaned up and tore down today and will probably start some porting this coming week. I also found a highly elusive big block truck oil pan with a rear sump for a decent price; this was a tough item to come up with but a must for the install.

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I took the 49 to the car show last night with my grand kids for one last time this season and then went ahead and pulled the motor today. It really does run nice for a cruiser but I think the big block will be a lot more fun. I'm putting the SHO motor up for sale to help finance the swap; I'm sure someone out there has a Falcon, Mustang, or Ranger they might want to stick it in.

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You are to be congratulated for your courage to re-do a project that, 'tho turning out well, did not meet your needs.  I'm sure you'll hear, "How can you do that after all that work?"  Some folks just don't understand what we do,.... and never will.  A lot of it is the journey.  I can hardly wait to see documentation of your next adventure, w/big block.

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You are to be congratulated for your courage to re-do a project that, 'tho turning out well, did not meet your needs.  I'm sure you'll hear, "How can you do that after all that work?"  Some folks just don't understand what we do,.... and never will.  A lot of it is the journey.  I can hardly wait to see documentation of your next adventure, w/big block.

You know, for me the build is the most enjoyable part and I suspect it's the same for you. Yeah, I like cruising around in the finished product and hanging out with the other car show geezers but it's long weekends in the garage doing the fabricating and stewing up new ideas while listening to Cardinal baseball on the radio that really floats my boat. So as far as all the work; well, if I wasn't working on this one I'd be working on one of my other ones so it's all the same. Either that or I'm just incapable of making up my damn mind about what I want!

 

Thanks for tuning in; this one is going to take some thinking.

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The SHO motor left today on a truck to Milwaukee for it's new home in an Austin Healy Bugeye and I got some $$ to help finance the 400 swap. The crank and freeze plugs went in today; I'll be out of town working all next week but hope to get a little more done next weekend.

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I did some prep work tonight; I couldn't find the right oil pump pickup for the rear sump pan anywhere as it's out of production and the pan itself was hard enough to come by. So I just welded on a 6" extension and it looks like it will work and clear the crank fine. Also pulled out the clutch pedal as I'm going with a 727 trans, pulled out the 5/16" fuel lines and pulled off the exhaust. I hope to get the short block together next week if the machine shop gets my pistons put on the rods. 

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I got all my pistons in, went to put the cam in and it got really, really tight when slipping it into the last cam bearing. You cant turn it by hand with the gear on it so something is wrong. I'm using one of Jeg's house brand cams; I guess I'm going to call their tech support and see if maybe one of the cam bearing surfaces could be a hair oversize. I think that's probably more likely that the new cam bearings being wrong?

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