Electrical Modifications...

[Mikemomd]

My '48 Dodge Flathead 6 had been modified by the previous owner to 12V system, remaining a postitive ground. In the last 5 months, I have had two dead batteries.

 

I am not concerned about maintaining all original equipment. Modifications have already been made to accomodate the 12 Volt change.

 

So...I am upgrading to an alternator  [ rather than generator ] along with switching from a positive ground to a negative ground. I have seen literature and web sites listing the changes necessary to convert both.

 

What recommendations are there for possible alternator options?? I have seen listed on several sites the use of a "One Wire Alternator". Also, the General Motors 10SI unit.

 

Any idea, tips on making this transition easier.

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

My present generator:

 

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

depends on what you want and how you wish it to look..personally I use the mopar alt with the dual field tap and electronic external regulator..to me they are fail proff..and while the possibility always exist for problem with anything mechanical..the trouble shoot is so much easier...

[Scruffy49]

NAPA part number is I believe a 213-4011. Internally regulated, 12v, 63A, negative ground. S,L or S1 series Delco replacement. Max output 71A, at 2000 rpm is 45A, 2400 rpm is 54A, 3500 rpm (just shy of L6 goes pop) is 65A.

 

Have one on my late 50s or early 60s John Deere 1020 UL 3 cyl gas burner farm tractor, same basic unit on the 4.3L V6 equipped 85 C10.

[Mikemomd]

depends on what you want and how you wish it to look..personally I use the mopar alt with the dual field tap and electronic external regulator..to me they are fail proff..and while the possibility always exist for problem with anything mechanical..the trouble shoot is so much easier...

Looks actually mean little....ease of installation and reliability most important.

[Plymouthy Adams]

ease is the one wire GM set up...but to do it right you want the sense voltage to properly maintain and the idiot light hooked up...

the Mopar is basic easy setup...the external regulator for longevity and cooler operation, longer life and ease of troubleshooting (no split the case to read it) etc..just two more small wires..

[Mikemomd]

Any links to sites with the Mopar alternator of which you speak, Zen Master???

[Plymouthy Adams]

Mike..the dare to be different does not have a following...lol The Mopar engine bible will show you a quick and easy set up using this as a race car feature...or just copy any basic charging circuit of the era..its not at all hard to do..big benefit is that you can actually change the brushes with the alternator still mounted on the car..I really do not see how anyone would consider anything else..except maybe the three wires...(either wire to either side of the field even) how can you screw it up?

[Scruffy49]

Just ask the parts store for a 1970 D100 alternator and voltage regulator. 1969 was the last year for the single field round case. Which is nicer looking (and fits better) on some engines than the 70 up square back does. I couldn't fit a 70 up on the stock 318 in my 69, different brackets (just slightly).

 

Easy to wire in, but the 70 up voltage regulator is less than half the size of your stock unit. Plan to plug a couple holes and drill a couple new ones...

[Plymouthy Adams]

 ^{just ask for this across the counter..harly likely to get what you want...application is the key...most of the V8's will have a twin belt pulley..would look silly as a doorknob on a motorcycle..but am sure some do have these on their Hardly motorcycles...anyway..get a slant six application so you can get a single pulley}

[Don Coatney]

I must ask why you have had battery trouble. And why you think switching to an alternator will fix that problem? I suggest you find out what is wrong first.

 

If you do switch to an alternator it is very easy to make a bracket mounting using your old generator bracket as the base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

the point Don makes is a good one..why mess with prosperity if you have a working system now and only have a drain to a short or maybe a miswired accessory...find and fix your problem then if you decide you would like to upgrade..then you will not be compounding your problem and transferring bad wiring forward to a new system where you will then doubt everything about your electrical system..there is not an abundant amount of wiring on a D24 so it would be a relatively easy fix...do not overlook a regulator drain...it that is the problem..upgrade will give you best of both worlds..

[Don Coatney]

The biggest single battery drain on your car is a faulty brake light switch.

[Mikemomd]

Many thanks, guys...

 

 

I checked as best as I could as far as any battery drain...none found. A faulty generator suggested by a friend / mechanic....he is going to double check all the electrical system this week with his equipment....I'm just considering all possibilities and options out there.......therefore , the upgrade to the alternator if I was going to have to install a new generator. Your thoughts???

 

If I do go with a new alternator, do I need to make any changes with my dash Amp Gauge????

Edited June 10, 2013 by Mikemomd

[Don Coatney]

You will need to switch the wires on the back of the ammeter if you reverse polarity. Other wise it will show a negative charge.

[Plymouthy Adams]

...often amp meters in conjunction with the alternator is shunted and reads just a sampling of the current...the trend today is a volt meter instead....many here have converted to the alternator and have not made any negative posts on the gauges capabiliites...you really do not need a super output alternator unless you running some serious audio amps or maybe air conditioning at night, high beams, country road with aux driving lights and raining with the wiper on full speed with 4 way flashers..while on the CB screaming mayday into the mic

[Mikemomd]

I need those highbeams to avoid an encounter with those migrating armadillos!!! Otherwise, I will have a low e-burden on the system....55-60 amps adequate then?

[Mikemomd]

Problem possibly solved:

 

Yesterday afternoon, after jumping my Dodge with the "dead" battery, I took it out for a 15-20 mile drive. Headlights worked fine, turn signals fine, horn fine.....cut the engine after the 30 minute spin....battery still dead.

 

Yesterday night, I checked the voltage regulator.....not apparently gounded well or at all.....so, I grounded it well....charged the battery....it started right up without a jump. The Amp gauge spiked positive at 35 AMPS for about one minute....[something it has NEVER done after starting it....usually stays at 0 ] ....then slowly returned to zero.

 

Tonight, a cold start....it turned right over....second try [usually the case] it started.....same thing with the AMP gauge spiking at 35 AMPS for about a minute....then zeroed out.

 

Hoping it was only a grounding problem and the generator seems to be working fine....since the car ran and was electrically operational even with the dead battery after the jump but no charge to the battery until the voltage regulator was grounded properly.

 

Not sure if logic is sound...any comments....will see with more time...... thanks for the help guys.

[Plymouthy Adams]

grounds are a very important part of the electrical problem..even today in computer drien cars..they say first check all connections for clean and the gournd are clean and tight