Door Reassembly......questions

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guy's;

I removed all the hardware and internals from my doors (such as they were) prior to prepping them to be painted. Now they are back from the painter and it is time to start preparing for reassembly. I have started hunting down and procuring replacement parts for worn hardware and some of the fasteners. There are a few things I am uncertain about and thought I would ask for guidance from those of you who have been through the process.

 

One of the most important questions I have has to do with the order of reassembly. I feel like this could be a real frustrating job if I don't get the order of reassembly correct. Does anyone have some words of wisdom on this subject?

 

Another question I have has to do with the the installation of all the various and sundry glass channels etc..

How much of this is should be installed into it's respective metal parts prior to putting them into the door?

 

It seems like the general consensus is that Steele is the best supplier for the rubber parts, etc. Do the door kits they offer contain everything I am going to need to put new glass in? Or do I also need to source associated items from other suppliers?

 

Any helpful suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. I know quite a few of you have been through this and have probably learned the hard way. I just want to do this right and with as little damage to my new paint as possible.

 

Thanks in advance, Jeff

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

Put the latch assembly in first, then the window regulator. The front window channel goes in before the vent windows, if you have them. A while back someone posted of a place to get the front channel and divider bars redone with authentic seals. (if you have vent windows)

 

I got Steele rubber and I'm not completely happy with the fit on the vent windows.

 

Merle

[Jeff Balazs]

Merle

Thanks. I do have vent windows. What is the problem with the Steele rubber? Does it leak?

I will try and find that posting you mention.

Jeff

[Merle Coggins]

Yes, the vent window seal doesn't seal completely around the windows. There are a couple of spots on both sides where I can see daylight between the window frame and the seal, when the window is latched shut. I also had to trim back the bottom end a bit because it would interfere with the roll up window.

 

That's the only Steele rubber product that I've had an issue with. The rest of it was great.

 

Merle

[ggdad1951]

my vent window seal from Steel seems to be working well, at least as well as the original.  I don't think these things ever sealed all that great in the first place.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Mark;

I wonder if they made an adjustment to the mold in between the time Merle ordered his and you got yours?

 

One thing I would really like to know is if the door kit includes all the rubber, runs and weather-strip you needed or if you had to get specific items from other sources?

 

Thanks, Jeff

[ggdad1951]

I got the window stuff from Steele and the one of the door seals from Roberts (bottom).   I got the top/side 2 door seals from Steele.

Edited April 25, 2013 by ggdad1951

[Monkey Truck]

Yes, the vent window seal doesn't seal completely around the windows. There are a couple of spots on both sides where I can see daylight between the window frame and the seal, when the window is latched shut. I also had to trim back the bottom end a bit because it would interfere with the roll up window.

 

That's the only Steele rubber product that I've had an issue with. The rest of it was great.

 

Merle

 

Same exact experience I've had with my vent window seals from Steele.

 

Everything else from them has been great.

Edited April 25, 2013 by Monkey Truck