How To Remove Lower Front Brake Cylinder

[DJLarson]

Hello,

 

New to the site so if I posted this in the wrong place let me know.  I have had my 48 Plymouth Coup since 1988 after I traded a single shot 16ga and $25 for it.  It had been sitting in a yard since the mid 60's but the body is in pretty good condition.  I had it sitting in my dads barn since then while I was in the service but now that I am retired I thought I would try to get it on the road.  I still live in Okinawa Japan so I only work on it when I go back on leave so it is going slow.  The engine is done so I turned my attention to the brakes so I can test drive it.  The problem I am running into is I can't get the front lower brake cylinders off, I have heated them, pounded on them, and even broke a pickle fork.  All said and done the only thing I managed to do is break one of them off but the bolt is still froze in.  Is there a trick or special tool used to remove them?  It looks like all I have to do is take the nut of and remove the bolt???

 

I will not be able to work on it until I go back in the fall but would like to get a game plan now so I don't waste a lot of time getting no where.

 

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

Dan

[bamfordsgarage]

Hi Dan, and welcome to the Forum.

 

Sorry I can't help with your cylinder removal problem, but I was intrigued to learn you run a '57 Chev daily driver in Okinawa — would love to see a picture of the car in its (adopted) native habitat.

[_shel_ny]

Edit: castle nut with cotter pin. Pin may be hiding in grease. (AKA undercoatney)

Edited April 9, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[P15-D24]

As shel_bizzy_48 picture points out (the red marks) just remove the anchor bolts by unscrewing the bolts behind them. 

[DJLarson]

As shel_bizzy_48 / Webmaster

 

 

Well I guess it is as easy as it looked because I did take the nut, cotter pin and washer off but it still would not budge.  Any other suggestions other than heating and beating?

Appreciate the fast reply and actual picture.

Thanks
Dan

 bamfordsgarage Yes I get a lot of un-wanted attention, even came out of the store and had old people sitting in it because they use to have one here when the US owned Okinawa.  I will see if I can find a picture

.

[_shel_ny]

As shel_bizzy_48 / Webmaster

 

 

Well I guess it is as easy as it looked because I did take the nut, cotter pin and washer off but it still would not budge.  Any other suggestions other than heating and beating?

Appreciate the fast reply and actual picture.

Thanks

Dan

 bamfordsgarage Yes I get a lot of un-wanted attention, even came out of the store and had old people sitting in it because they use to have one here when the US owned Okinawa.  I will see if I can find a picture

.

Possibly time to think about a disc brake conversion.

 

That wheel cylinder should be basically floating on the concentric anchor bolt. The bolt is the major adjustment for the heel of the shoe. With the nut and washer off I don't know why it would be stuck, but it obviously is. You could put the nut back on backwards to protect the threads, and give it a little tap. The 3 cars that I have removed the front cylinders and bolts on came off easily. I have anchor bolts if you should run into the need.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have removed a few that were badly frozen too. I just use a 5 lb sledge and a 1" steel long drift and wail on it. The anchor bolt will.... come our of the W/cyl and steering arm. If you are not mean enough well. A blue tip wrench will work!

[DJLarson]

Thanks guys when I get back to Mn I will attack it again.

[TJM70's_48]

When re-installing the new cylinder, how tight should the castle nut be on the anchor bolts be tightened? Is there a particular distance that should be measured for the eccentric length from the backing plate?