Looking To Buy 1948 Dodge 4 Door Car Have Few Questions

[3dodgedoobie]

Im going saturday to look at a 1948 4 door dodge car. Wanting to know what to look for as in problem spots etc. Its a mans project that he running out of time for. Has all parts in boxes type of thing. Says it runs with some gas and wiring. Talk to him for almost an hour today. Been sitting in shed in the dry, front fenders and hood is currently off and hanging on wall. Body had been sanded down and primered. What are the hard to find parts that I should look for? In picture he sent it was missing the trim at rockers. And I know its hard to put price on something sight unseen. So not going to ask that. But more than welcome to throw some figures out.

Also being 48 would that be 6v? Or 12v? Reason I ask he said something about pos. Grnd. Only heard of that on 6v systems. And any advice will gladly be appreciated.

On side note me 52 truck is coming together nicely. The car be next project mainly for wife.

[Uncle-Pekka]

Having owned a 1948 D24 for six years now, I have not come across any parts I haven't been able to find. However, those stainless steel rocker trims are getting rare to find in good condition and prices are high.

Further, I would appreciate if the interior wood grained panels and dash would be presentable factory paint. I do value original factory wood grain job over restored. Also professional restoring of wood graining is expensive.

 

The 1948 is 6V positive ground system. No problem finding 6V components either.

 

Good luck!

Pekka

[BobT-47P15]

What Pekka said.  Parts can usually be found on eBay and sometimes in the classified ads of this site.

[3dodgedoobie]

Ok thanks guys. Also any spots I should check for known rust issues etc etc.

[Plymouthy Adams]

anywhere there is steel.....!!!!!!!!!

 

seriously a few of the more common are rockers both in and out..usually more pronounced at the front where cowl firewall and floor come toghether...the area below the read quarter glass as this drains out the rocker and over time the drains are futzed..left and right panels of the trunk opening at the bottom where the gravel shield resides..then the lower opening of the trunk lid where the rubber seal resides has rust issues along with the very pocket for the trunk latch....front fenders at the cowl as they can accumulate dust and dirt over time and moisture gets in there every rain..and about the grille panel and turn signal lights at the front..most of the upper body survivves relaly well including gutters and pinchwelds at the glass...lower doors could be rough..and often the door corners on the outer skin..the trunk lid itself may have some lower rot usually on the insde stiffener moreso than the outer skin..

[DJ194950]

anywhere there is steel.....!!!!!!!!!

 

seriously a few of the more common are rockers both in and out..usually more pronounced at the front where cowl firewall and floor come toghether...the area below the read quarter glass as this drains out the rocker and over time the drains are futzed..left and right panels of the trunk opening at the bottom where the gravel shield resides..then the lower opening of the trunk lid where the rubber seal resides has rust issues along with the very pocket for the trunk latch....front fenders at the cowl as they can accumulate dust and dirt over time and moisture gets in there every rain..and about the grille panel and turn signal lights at the front..most of the upper body survivves relaly well including gutters and pinchwelds at the glass...lower doors could be rough..and often the door corners on the outer skin..the trunk lid itself may have some lower rot usually on the insde stiffener moreso than the outer skin..

I agree with Tim and add- take something to lay on and a bright flashlight. Look at the area mentions from under the car.

Many poorly done patches show up quickly. Most people that do poor repairs on sheet metal never bother with the undersides!

Did  I or anyone else tell you to lift up the floormats/carpets to see under them.

 

Hope the find is good but don't be surprised to find some areas that need work! Just tell the owner what you have found and adjust price accordingly!

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

[_shel_ny]

Often the cowl vent will leak. Water will drip down in the area of the radio, and rot out the floor by the gas pedal.

[3dodgedoobie]

Ok he told me about the front flr board on drivers side had some rust. Which I figured, he also said bottom of front fenders which he said he fixed, said trunk pan was good, rear flr pans was good, he has fenders off so I can check cowl area. And he said he is 3rd owner. He restores cars on the side in his retirement yrs. And just dont wanna mess with 4door car, he has 2 other 2dr sedans he working on. And rather finish than a 4dr. Luckily not dodges or im sure he swapped out good parts for bad. And its priced so low that I can afford to fix troubled areas. So we will see, and go from there. If come home with it I upload some pics.

[Plymouthy Adams]

be very careful of areas that the PO fixed..could be just bondo stuffed in rusted out holes..invetigate this..repair proper..do not invest into a good paint job over unknow quality of work..

[Robert Horne]

On my 48 four door, the foor board near the master cylinder was bad,

but as easy fix, all flat metal.

The front driver fender, rear bottom section had a quarter size rust spot,

easy fix also.

I took out the seats for inspection, every thing was great.

Trunk was great also....

[3dodgedoobie]

Robert is the rear fenders suppose to look like that? Or did some of them not have the fillers over the wheels.

[Uncle-Pekka]

Robert's rear fenders are fitted with optional fender skirts.

[Robert Horne]

My 48 had the fender skirts. Really made the car very nice, and the rear was a little

lower than normal,(weak springs)....

[3dodgedoobie]

ok fellas i went today looked at 48 4door dodge. came home with it.  couldnt pass up the deal at 500 bucks. almost all there and runs. flathead 6. diamond in the rough.i will upload pics in day or two.  where can i find info on the car like vin number lookup, firewall number, id plate number on cowl, and motor numbers too see what i have.  and where to purchase parts from.

[_shel_ny]

door post serial number:

 

 

scroll up

 

hover over reference

 

click on D24 reference

[3dodgedoobie]

Well I did the reference thing right off. But I guess what im saying is where can I find what engine it should have, what color was the car originally, what color interior, is it custom or deluxe tupe of question? On side note I did bring it home its in pieces parts missing mainly chrome, and interior shot, but she runs. I would like to know if my flathead is 218 or 230? Wife wants it back to original state. Or close as possible. So any info on where to get wiring diagrams, buy parts etc would help out greatly

[Plymouthy Adams]

48 Dodge...230 is stock

Edited March 18, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[3dodgedoobie]

Thats good. I wrote down every number on the car I could find. Just need to find out where to get all the info.

[grassfiddler]

You can get a reproduction repair manuel off of ebay for around $30 plus shipping. I bought one for my 52 Coronet and it has been a life saver! I have used the wiring diagrams to get me out of a jamb on many occasions. There are a ton of diagrams to help you put the car back together for things such as the body, engine, transmission, exhaust, brakes, wiring, etc.... A parts book would also be a great investment just for it's diagrams as well. As far as running the numbers to find out original color, motor, tranny, etc. you can apply to the Chrysler Museum with your VIN number and they can do a search for the original build sheet. Costs around $60 and it can help you in rebuilding your car back to it's original state.

Just like some others have said, most parts are fairly easy to get, but some are getting a little more rare such as fuel pumps and some trim pieces. Do your homework and shop around. I have seen some vendors charge double than what another vendor would charge for the same part. Shop your local auto parts store(s) then check places like ebay, rock auto, etc... and salvage yards like Desert Valley. Be patient when looking for these parts and also be patient with the people selling the parts because many of them have never delt with any cars of this age and will not know much about them. Best wishes with the build!

[3dodgedoobie]

yea i know people not good with cars older than them most the time. im a patient person. most the time when i go to parts store i have the number already that i need. i research numbers and pics to make sure i have what needed. i wonder if one of those cd rom repair manuels would be ok to have and i know they going to be parts i cant find or way over priced. but we will get there.

 

robert horne the master cyclinder in your pic is that factory or slightly modified to help with braking?

also robert i think your local to me. jc here.

[3dodgedoobie]

Ok got a question. Where can I find ignition switch and locks for doors and trunk?

[_shel_ny]

roberts motor parts

 

EDIT: adding roberts site. Links are not as user friendly as on the old forum.

http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp

 

or

 

oldmoparts.com

from the links will probably have them.

 

ebay seller light1nin

 

I have no affiliation with these sellers

Edited March 19, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[3dodgedoobie]

I couldnt find the locks on roberts. But did find em on oldmoparts. So I be. Ordering as soon as I See what all needed with locks.

[Uncle-Pekka]

According to my experience, you'll be more likely getting the CORRECT parts by ordering to Oldmoparts (ex. Bernbaum) than by Roberts.

 

Roberts web catalog has errors, which in my case lead to wrong windshield weatherstripping. In spite that the mistake was in their supplied information, they refused to compensate the freight of the replacement parts,

thus I ended paying the parts and freight twice (200%). a Non-returning customer, I am.

 

With Oldmoparts never had any mistakes or quality issues - do recommend.

[Robert Horne]

 

 

""robert horne the master cyclinder in your pic is that factory or slightly modified to help with braking?

also robert i think your local to me. jc here.""

My master cylinder setup is, a rebuilt Mustang II from auto parts store, about $20.

I left the original master cylinder in place, add a 9 inch rod to go through the original.

There are several threads on here where others have done something similar.

I hear J.C. Tenn, has cruise-ins near Auto Zone auto parts, have not been there yet.

Here in Abn,Va, cruise-ins are on Saturday evenings, I-81, exit 17, Majic Mart parking lot, everyone welcome....

Edited March 19, 2013 by Robert Horne