Ring job... some advice please.

[drillmastertommy]

I have a 1953 P24 code 218 in my 39 Plymouth pick up, trouble is it smokes something terrible!

In the not too distant future I have designs on acquiring a good condition Dodge 230 lump which I can transplant my twin carbs, Edgy head and cast headers onto but right now it's financially not an option.

In order to avoid gassing my local community I need to establish whether it's worth me replacing my piston rings. I know in an ideal world the engine would be pulled and properly rebuilt but that just can't happen right now.

My engine starts well, seems to produce a good amount of torque and will run smoothly. BUT under throttle local visibility is reduced to zero, my dipstick is always pushed up a little after running and my oil vent cap looks like a pub local before the smoking ban. All bores are unscored and there is only a very light lip at the top. There are no markings on the piston tops so I'm assuming they are standard bore.

I suppose I'm looking for some experienced opinions on whether I'm wasting my time removing the cylinder head and sump, removing pistons and con rods one at a time, using a ridge reamer to clean up the lip at the top of the bore, lighly honing the cylinder walls then replacing all the parts as they were just with new rings on the standard pistons (assuming I don't find any damage not currently visible).

Could this course of action keep me a little less smokey for a few more miles.....?

Thanks in advance.

[JIPJOBXX]

Try a can of No Smoke. I used it in an old Caravan I had and it did the trick to keep my exhaust from exhausting someone else. It cost about three or four dollars and is worth the try.

[RobertKB]

My engine starts well, seems to produce a good amount of torque and will run smoothly. BUT under throttle local visibility is reduced to zero, my dipstick is always pushed up a little after running and my oil vent cap looks like a pub local before the smoking ban. All bores are unscored and there is only a very light lip at the top. There are no markings on the piston tops so I'm assuming they are standard bore.

I suppose I'm looking for some experienced opinions on whether I'm wasting my time removing the cylinder head and sump, removing pistons and con rods one at a time, using a ridge reamer to clean up the lip at the top of the bore, lighly honing the cylinder walls then replacing all the parts as they were just with new rings on the standard pistons (assuming I don't find any damage not currently visible).

Could this course of action keep me a little less smokey for a few more miles.....?

Thanks in advance.

I did this exact procedure to the engine in my '53 Plymouth many years ago when it had about 72,000 miles on it. Left the engine in the car and pulled the head and pan and removed pistons and rods as you mentioned. Lapped the valves, replacing one that was bad. Pistons were OK so just put on new rings, buttoned everything up and it was good to go. Main and rod bearings were all within factory specs so just reused them. Car now has 98,000+ miles and is still running strong. My engine is original to the car so I have an unbored block and unmachined crank if it needs work in the future.

If things look OK when you pull things apart, re-ringing is good and was done to these engines lots in the past.

Edited December 12, 2012 by RobertKB
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[drillmastertommy]

Try a can of No Smoke. I used it in an old Caravan I had and it did the trick to keep my exhaust from exhausting someone else. It cost about three or four dollars and is worth the try.

Not an off the shelf product here in the UK so one credit card and a phone call to Steve at VPW later and new rings and head gasket are on route...

[MarkAubuchon]

I had the same issue with my 49 Coupe. Pulled the head, honed the cylinders put in stock rings, rod bearings, new valve springs, lapped the valves. Runs great no smoke on a very low budget

[Don Coatney]

Try a can of No Smoke. I used it in an old Caravan I had and it did the trick to keep my exhaust from exhausting someone else. It cost about three or four dollars and is worth the try.

Very bad advice in my opinion. Aint no mechanic in a can period.

[Rusty O'Toole]

How is the oil pressure? How many miles on the engine? If the oil pressure is good chances are the crankshaft and bearings are good.

In that case you can do a ring and valve job as Robertkb described. This used to be a standard overhaul procedure up to the mid fifties. Better oil, better filters and chrome rings made it obsolete.

Take the head off, if the cylinders are not scored, nor worn over .007 at the top, and the rings and pistons are not broken then a ring and valve job is all you need.

[drillmastertommy]

How is the oil pressure? How many miles on the engine? If the oil pressure is good chances are the crankshaft and bearings are good.

In that case you can do a ring and valve job as Robertkb described. This used to be a standard overhaul procedure up to the mid fifties. Better oil' date=' better filters and chrome rings made it obsolete.

Take the head off, if the cylinders are not scored, nor worn over .007 at the top, and the rings and pistons are not broken then a ring and valve job is all you need.[/quote']

Oil pressure is and always has been good and consistent, no idea as to the overall mileage of the engine as it's not original to my truck. No scoring in the bores and the tops of the pistons are in very good condition, for obvious reasons I can't tell what the sides are like just yet.

Rings and head gasket are currently winging their way from Vintage Power Wagons and I already have everything else ready to go! I'm just hoping for a delivery before Christmas....