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Posted

i am about to lower my 1950 suburban. my plan was 3 inches, but i wanted to know if there are any wise folks who have had problems with interference? right now it looks like blocks in the back make the axle very close to the gas supply line and gas tank, and the front might rub on the front edge of the fender.. maybe i should get slightly smaller front tires..

Posted

Cyber...........I have 1 coil cut from the front and 2" blocks on the rear springs, 15x6 and 15 x7" Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies with their standard offset and 195/75 x15 and 235/75 x15 Coker Classic Radials front & back, no clearance issues front or back.........I think that you may run into clearance problems with a 3" drop, also as you can see the wheels & tyres fill the fenders nicely, not stuck up inside completeely..........but we've all got our preferences............lol................regards, andyd

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Posted

Are you working with the stock suspension? Sounds like you are and I doubt very much how low you can go and still have the car handle. Listen to what the rest are saying and don't jeopardize the ride and handling for a look.

Here's a pic of my wagon but it also has major suspension mods done. The front end is Fatman and rear is Heidts IRS.

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Posted

3" dropped uprights means zero change in steering geometry. 3" blocks in the rear means no change in spring rate. i fail to see the problem? though i do recognize that many on this site dont like the look of lowered plymouths.

outside of personal preference i dont see a reason to advise him against lowering (though i might be biased as i am in the process of doing the same thing)

as far as an answer to cybers actual question regarding fender clearance, i have no input, yet.

Posted (edited)
i really like a lowered look. i realize it will hinder the suspensions performance some, but to me it's the same as not wearing sweatpants to a wedding.

Lol, dam...thought I was the only one!

Fatman drop spindles will ease the front end, but there's another way too...the spring perch can be removed from the "top" of the lower arm and bolted...with real high grade bolts"...to the bottom of the arm...yields a 3 1/2" drop on the cheap and can be returned to stock easily if you don't like it.

Fatman also makes de-arced springs too...swapping from 16" to 15" wheels...even 14"{pushing it I think} adds to the dropped illusion...

These cars only had a front sway bar...I doubt folks are planning on SCCA racing with them...just sayin....

...see your PMs.....

Edited by 40P10touring sedan
Posted

I took a coil out of the front and 2" blocks in the rear. Also removed the smallest bottom leaf and got another 1/2 inch, maybe more. Rides and handles just fine. I do have 20psi in the rear air shocks. Front stiffened a little after the coil cut. Wouldn't go much more, only about an inch before the front snubber hits, still got 4+" to the rear snubber. No tire clearance issues. 195/65/15 in front. 235/75/15 in rear. Going to a shorter tire in rear because I'm putting a taller rear gear in it as we speak.

Posted

thanks for all the info. after reading i think i will just save the money on the dropped spindles and disk brakes and go with cutting a coil, or 2" of sprung height, and 2" blocks in the back. i can please the suspension purists by the fact that i can put it back to original when they are proven right(getting used springs), but i can also listen to link wray while i pull into the chuckle hut on saturday night and feel like i belong when i scrape into the parking lot.

sometimes form is more important than function

Posted

ARRRGH...... Who cares what anyone else thinks. Build it how you want it so you will be happy with your car. If someone gets on you about what you have done, tell them to write the checks next time. Or ask them where their car is.

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