operating temp

[Guest Tavis Miller]

I bought this 47 d-24 back in spring time. I had a broken leg so i didnt get into much this summer. so this fall i did a little bit of work to her. Yesterday I went to run her. ( i dont drive her because she has no brakes, stinking wheel cylinders) and she was running hot. Went up to about 215-220 at idle. I dont know if its had this prob for the previous owner, but i know he has been into the cooling. He put a new radiator, water pump, and freeze plugs in. I havent taken thermostat housing off to see what condtion thats in. But for reference, what temp should this flatty i-6's be running at? i gotta check that thermostat, hope it isnt in the coolant passeges, they have many problems with the colant passeges? well i'm off to sand blast the floor pan, thanks for the help!

[grady hawkins]

If the fan belt is not slipping, you may have a water distributer tube problem

[De Soto Frank]

When all's right with the world, it should run about 160 - 180 degrees idling. If it runs hotter than that sitting in your driveway, something's wrong.

If there's the remotest possibilty it sat for a fall/winter with the radiator cap off or hoses disconeccted, don't be surprised to find mice/chipmunk nests / food caches in the radiator tanks/ hoses, etc.

How long did it take for it to get to 200+ degrees ?

De Soto Frank

[Guest Tavis Miller]

The belt was fine and since i've owned the vehicle the cap and hoses have always been on. It took about 10-15 mins to get to 200 degrees. I'm guessing its getting circulation because coolant came out of the waterway drain. I just changed the coolant because the previous owner only had water in the system. So i dont know if something rusted internally and clogged up. (the water was brown). I havent had a chance to run it much myself because when i bought it the gas tank had holes in it, so it ran off a small jug. so i never ran it more than about 10 minutes. it doesnt have brakes so i cant drive it to see how it operates with good air circulation. I did see in the manual that it said a water distrubution tube could cause a problem. Is it common on the flatty 6's? if so who sells this tube? again, thanks for the help

[Rodney Bullock]

Check to see what thermostat you have, if it is not opening then you will have a problem.sometimes after running the car the temp goes up and the thermostat opens and the temp will go back down, also while running the car turn the heat on to see if you have heat if there is no heat then the thermostat is not open. little steps:)

[Guest Tavis Miller]

dang, i cant check to see how hot the heater is. the previous owner has it disconnected. i'll just have to be un-lazy and check that thermostat. but like i said in the first post, the guy i bought it off of replace the radiator, water pump and freeze plugs. i'm assuming he would have replaced the thermostat while he had it all apart. but i know the ol saying about assuming.....haha thanks for the help.

[greg g]

Might be as simple as the stat being incorrect or installed upside down. The longer side should be in the head. As long as you are going to pull the stat. Run it without it to see what happens. Also put a thermometer in the radiator. the coolant should be a few degrees cooler in the Rad than it is where the temp gauge sender is. One other note, do not over fill the radiator. It should be filled so that there is about two inches of open space under the cap. Any more and it will just puke it out as it expands with the heat.

[Guest jjmorrse]

I run a 54, and it took me through the Dallas area in summer and never hit 200. My system has a little pressure, so that may help. I also run duals but the intake is stock. There is a water dist tube that prevents hot spots, maybe it is corroded or gone. People tend to get rid of tin when they do not know what it does (i.e. SBC starter heat shields)

[captden29]

I bought this 47 d-24 back in spring time. I had a broken leg so i didnt get into much this summer. so this fall i did a little bit of work to her. Yesterday I went to run her. ( i dont drive her because she has no brakes, stinking wheel cylinders) and she was running hot. Went up to about 215-220 at idle. I dont know if its had this prob for the previous owner, but i know he has been into the cooling. He put a new radiator, water pump, and freeze plugs in. I havent taken thermostat housing off to see what condtion thats in. But for reference, what temp should this flatty i-6's be running at? i gotta check that thermostat, hope it isnt in the coolant passeges, they have many problems with the colant passeges? well i'm off to sand blast the floor pan, thanks for the help!

tavis, the water distribution tube needs to be checked. andy bernbaum, roberts and other sources have them, about $35. the block can have crud in it that can be partially cleaned out through the freeze plugs.mine runs warm, not as hot as yours. i put a pusher fan on. dennis

[bob westphal]

It is quite simple to see if the thermostat is working. While it is running feel the upper radiator hose. If it is cool, the the water isn't flowing. Also put your hand on the front of the radiator. If the water is circulating the radiator will be warm from top to bottom. If it isn't the radiator could be plugged or a stuck thermostat. If water is circulating and the temp is high the distribution tube could be bad.

Bob

[55 Fargo]

I have to agree, the usual cause when everything else is in good working order,ie rad, water pump, thermostat and fanbelt isn't slipping, is the water dist tube. Last spring I pulled my water dist tube and found the last 6 inches full of crud. As mine was brass I just cleaned it and reinstalled, but before this I pulled 3 freeze plugs and ran a pressure washer through it and rinsed as much crud as possible out form the block, which was a lot. My engine now runs at 170 or so on the aftermarket gauge, the temp of the antifreeze in the rad is about 10 to 15 degrees cooler, not sure why there is a difference. Hopefully I have corrected my own problem so far so good, I also run a 160 degree thermostat, I do notice my after market gauge will rise to 180 before the therm opens and of course it drops after this, so is the gauge accurate or is it still running hotter at the back of the block.........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Here is a pic right after I removed my water dist tube

[Guest Tavis Miller]

thanks for steering me in the right direction. i'll have to pull that tube and see how it is on the inside. The guy i bought it off of never said anything about him replacing the tube, so perhaps he had the same problem before he replaced all those parts thinking it was either the water pump or rad.

[Guest jtw3749c]

The distribution tube is NOT fun or real easy to pull. I have pulled two. The first one tokk me 30 minutes and it was out of the car. The second one was a bear. But I did finally get it out. There are probably several guys out here that has pulled their own and can back me up on that. It just takes time, patients and a home made tool to get it done. Read the following for a how to.

JT

Buy a piece of 3/8" square stock from a steel supply company -- a piece about three feet long. Sharpen one end into a chisel, and drive it down the flat side of the tube to collapse it. Then, grind a notch near one end of the square rod, and bend it slightly near the notch so it makes a hook. You'll be able to grab the inner end of the tube and pull it out. This way, you won't accidentally yank the tube in two and leave one half of it way down in the engine.

I had to clamp a pair of Vise grips onto the bar and hammered on it. I'm sure there are other ways to do this. Anyway, good luck!

[martybose]

.... you can still get the rest of it out if you are willing to. When my mechanic tried to get the one out of the D24 block now residing in my 47, the tube broke off at the #5 cylinder. He just drilled and tapped a hole in the back of the block, pulled out the remaining piece, then closed the hole with a recessed head pipe plug. Maybe not for he faint of heart, but no issues with it to date!

Marty

[Normspeed]

That's a different approach for sure Marty. Mine came out in two pieces, it was quite a job to get it out, even with my engine out of the car on a stand. The difference in operating temp is like night and day. Well worth the effort.