Engine Gremlins

[Don Jordan]

I am always reluctant to write about silly problems because the resident zen curmudgeon usually has something curt to say to those who do not posses the master's intellect. But I am at my wit's end and will endure the slings and arrows if I can get some answers.

Preface: I had my P15 - 218 engine completely rebuilt. It has new points, plugs, cond, rotor, cap, wires. I have decided to make the firing order my new password: 1,5,3,6,2,4. I know that's right.

I don't want to start it. It doesn't have an exhaust pipe. I just want to hear it fire. One pop.

This might be a silly thing but I noticed that when I put my hand over the carb it barely sucks. I attribute that to the 6v system turning it so slowly. Could that be a factor?

I've pulled #1 and there is spark. The coil worked when I took the engine out. I know it's got to be something silly but I can't find it.

I've done all the obvious things now I've got to go for the obscure.

Question: if the dist was 180° out it should still fire shouldn't it? I would accept a backfire. I have sprayed starting fluid down the carb - nothing.

My neighbor said it's possible the machine shop didn't properly adjust the valves. I'm considering every thing. Today I'm doing a compression check. The engine is brand new, compression should be off the charts. Shouldn't that also tell me if the valves are close?

I would appreciate any positive, constructive hints. This is a conundrum.

Thank you for your help and patience.

d-

[Plymouthy Adams]

the ability to suck is easily to check by doing a compression test..you should be able to have compression as long as the cam/crank is properly timed by the timing gear/chain

180 out may result in a pop..but it would be best to just verify proper ignition index prior to any attempt to turn the engine over..also do you have oil pressure with engine revs without ignition applied...it is recommended to verify oil circulation prior to repeated spinning of the engine..did your builder do the complete build..if so..he should have been able to demonstrate engine running prior to deliverly..now if he just did a short block build..then I see the reason for the questions..

while some question back to you may seem short and dagger pointed, it is oft times the best way to get a response so further/deeper analysis can be done..no room for sugar coating and such when trying to mail down a problem..only facts conside ansering of those questions will get you on track..so in this order,

verify compression

verify TDC #1 and relation ship to distributor rotor and indexing of wires

verify proper ignition by opening the points and with ignition on, short the points and on release check for secondary fire..

IF above checks..

ignition off spin for oil pressure and circulation test..

proceed with attempt to start..but to be honest with you I would make my first attempt to be positive and be prepared to fully bread in the cam and engine..engine cooling is important here...I would not run the engine new in a couple short starts..too much initial wear in this process..loss of break in lubes is a primary concern..especizll in the cam and tappet area where there is metal to metal stress adn lack of lube will cause galling adn metal transfer surface to surface

[RobertKB]

As mentioned, timing could be 180 degrees out. Just because #1 is TDC does not mean it on the compression stroke. It could be on the exhaust stroke and even though you have spark it has nothing to ignite. Put your thumb over the #1 cylinder with plug removed. When you feel pressure building when turning over with the starter, then you know you are on the compression stroke as no valves are open. If you have spark, your coil should be OK.