Pilothouse switchgear

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guys;

My truck pretty much needs all new switchgear etc...

I am going to keep it 6V positive ground.

I see that Napa has quite a bit of the electrical components required but not all.

Is the quality of the Napa components up to snuff? There are a few items they don't seem to have. Panel light switch......2 speed wiper switch....etc....does any one have a good source for these?

My goal is to build up an electrical system that will stand up to day to day use. I think it is probably best to have all new components rather than trying to rely on 60 year old electrical contacts.....but of course there may not be new items available for everything. I have had my starter/generator & wiper motor professionally reconditioned.

Thanks, Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

consider the use of relays..can be had in solid state also..

[1952B3b23]

I recently bought a switch for my headlights from Napa and it works fine, and i also have the original 6 volt system. The only thing that worries me is that its only rated for 10 amps. I know that each of my lights on hi-beam will draw about 8 amps which brings the total to about 16 amps. I don't want this over draw to burnout the switch prematurely, but what worries me more is if it were to cause an electrical fire. I'm not much of an electrical guy so i don't know how likely that is. So i ended up buying a spare original switch from Todd here on the forum.

[Jeff Balazs]

Tim;

Good point about the relays. Napa lists one for the horn.....but I did not see one for the headlights.

I am just trying to get a handle on what is available and what has worked well for members of this site.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

I think it is probably best to have all new components rather than trying to rely on 60 year old electrical contactsJeff

Like almost everything else on our trucks the switchgear can readily be re-built. You might be surprised how a little bit of corrosion can trick you into thinking a switch is bad. First thing to do is without taking them apart see if a local shop will either let you or do some minor beadblasting for you. (Protect the Phenolic board with masking tape and just concentrate on the outer contact posts).

After the contact posts are nice and clean if you use new brass nuts (like mine) and new steel star washers, give the switch a quick spray of electronic cleaner (preferably one that carries a lubricant) most likely the switches will work like new for the next half century.

Hank

Personally, I'd rather spend the money you'll save on a Harbor Freight bead blast cabinet.

Edited May 31, 2012 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

I have a bead blaster. It isn't going to fix the corroded and frozen switch internals. I will save what I can as spares but most of it is truly past saving.

Interestingly I just got my generator back from the rebuilder. Biggest issue with it was that it was full of blast media from the previous owner. Good thing I didn't run it......

I think I have a much different philosophy about what to spend money on for my truck than you do. I would much rather spend a couple hundred on new electrics for it and not have to worry about it again. For the most part these are one time expenses and this is going to be my daily driver.

Don't worry though.....I promise.... I will save a ton of money (over what you spent) on the paint job.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Hank;

I have a bead blaster. It isn't going to fix the corroded and frozen switch internals.Jeff

If that's the case then that's true.

Hank

[MBF]

I've had excellent luck carefully disassembling the switches (head, dash, dimmer) freeing up the stuck parts, cleaning the contacts, and reassembling for use. Did my over 10 yrs ago, and they still work smoothly and w/o issue. I've even taken some from parts trucks and done the same to them so that I have them in inventory should I ever need them. Its a beer and a half job per switch-sometimes less. Mike

[Jeff Balazs]

Mike & Hank;

I will look at reusing a couple of these items but for the most part the electrical system in my truck was really trashed and quite beyond reasonable repair.

When I asked to question it was to try and ascertain the quality of readily available replacement components. To put it another way to find out what has worked for others who have chosen or were forced to find alternative switch gear.

I am into reusing as much of the original truck as is reasonable and safe. After all I am sticking with the original drive train and 6 volt positive ground major components.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Jeff,

Not sure if this is a significant find for you

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NOS-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-SWITCH-for-1950s-MOPAR-OEM-1479980-SINGLE-SPEED-/140766522117?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c656ab05&vxp=mtr#ht_7848wt_1094

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NOS-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-SWITCH-for-1950s-MOPAR-OEM-1498689-TWO-2-SPEED-/120925910686?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c27bef69e&vxp=mtr#ht_8067wt_1094

Mine is vacuume operated but if I remember, yours are electric?

Hank

[Jeff Balazs]

Thank you Hank;

Yes my two speed switch is shot. Had the motor shop take a look at it and they had no luck either. They were able to repair the motor at least.

I will have to make a bid for this item.

I am also going to try and repair my heater.....don't need it here so much but you never know when I might take a trip to Frostbite Falls...............

Actually the defroster function would be useful once in a while.....if it works?

Jeff