Body and Rear Fenders

[jmooner3]

Guys - I just pulled my 49 B1B out of the weeds to pressure wash (yeah washing cars in my driveway in February - not a normal Vermont winter thing to do). Got the grime off, noticed several spots where the previous owner's bondo is cracking and some just popping off... Bad passenger fender, front piece behind grill and headlight hole is a mess. My plan was never to have a show truck, just a driver. Can I grind out the loose stuff and refill with success or should I get all the plastic out and get to bare metal before re-bondoing?

Also note the rear fender in the pic, I'm guesing these are on backwards? Looks like there are two holes that were filled in the quared off part aft, that would line up nicely with the running boards if facing forward?

[Dave72dt]

Yeah, that one's on backwards and on the wrong side of the truck. Next question is whether or not 2 holes have been drilledi n the other end. If there's enough filler on there to crack, likely there's dings and dents that can be bumped out closer to where they should be. Plastic filler is only supposed to fill minor imperfections, not major dents. Personally I'd strip the entire fender and bump out whatever I could and then do the filler work. It's a lot easier to get the final shape right when you have guidelines to go by instead of trying to sculpt it.

Bondo popping off may be an indication of rust behind it and the only way to fix that is to cut the rust out and replace it with fresh steel.

[48Dodger]

I agree with Dave. Strip all the filler out. You need good scratches (40 to 80 grit) for the filler to grab onto. if its pulling up...delaminating...then chances are its growing stuff underneth (rust) and/or the filler was mixed wrong...etc.

Start out right with the steel...show truck or not....what ever paint you put on it,...it needs a solid foundation.

48D

[jmooner3]

Thanks guys. I figured anything worth doing is worth doing right!

I may put all the pieces back together again as is for now and live with it while I get the motor installed and wiring, brakes etc. I gotta get it driving so I can feel a sense of accomlishement, More importantly I don't want to have my 12 year old helper lose interest.

Maybe backwards fenders will catch on, or maybe I just need to get a good solid reverse gear and mirrors like "Mater":rolleyes:

[48Dodger]

Real quick, my suggestions have always been:

Frame check/repair: there are few places the frames are prone to crack

Supension/steering: safety issue

brakes: brakes have to come before engine...just makes sense

cockpit: if your in the driver's seat your in control, otherwise youre the passenger

enigine/running gear: at this point you'll be able to control it and stop it

dry fit the body/trim: get all "the stuff" together for the final build

paint: fitment issues resolved/ paint is less likely to be chipped off

glass: in some cases...the glass goes on/in better with new paint. If you decide to put the glass in first and then paint...chances are you wont be happy with the primer/old color sneaking a peek on the edges of the rubber.

48D

[Rusty O'Toole]

When plastic filler pops it is usually because the metal behind is bad or has a bad bond. Thickness of filler has nothing to do with it, in fact if it is real thick like 2 or 3 inches it seems to stay on better than a thin coat.

Pry out the loose stuff and look behind it for rust, or holes. Even a pin hole can let dampness in which causes rust. Clean and repair as necessary. In bad spots fibreglass or kitty hair will hold better and last longer than bondo but if the metal underneath is not good it will be a temporary repair. Just fibreglass will last years where bondo will last months, if used improperly. If there is good clean steel behind the bondo, and the surface prepared properly the fill will last indefinitely.

When replacing glass during a body job the way we do it is to first paint around the window opening, let the paint dry, install the glass then tape it off and sand before doing the complete paint job. This way there is no danger of damaging the fresh paint when putting in the glass, yet you know there is paint under the rubber.

As a general rule it is best to do all mechanical work first, then the paint job, upholstery last.

Edited February 20, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole

[48Dodger]

When replacing glass during a body job the way we do it is to first paint around the window opening' date=' let the paint dry, install the glass then tape it off and sand before doing the complete paint job.[/quote']

Interesting idea.....

48D

[Dave72dt]

As far as body and paint goes, there's a lot of "right" ways of doing a particular job. Technicians and shops find methods that work for them that may be different from other shops. Passing a method along may help someone else do a better job. Personally, I shy away from kitty hair and fiberglass on steel. I'd rather cut and weld replacement steel in and I keep bondo use to a minimum. JMHO

[ggdad1951]

As far as body and paint goes, there's a lot of "right" ways of doing a particular job. Technicians and shops find methods that work for them that may be different from other shops. Passing a method along may help someone else do a better job. Personally, I shy away from kitty hair and fiberglass on steel. I'd rather cut and weld replacement steel in and I keep bondo use to a minimum. JMHO

which, I for one, REALLY agree with and appreciate!

[Rusty O'Toole]

which, I for one, REALLY agree with and appreciate!

You are both right but some people do not have the resources to do it "right" or the $$$$ to pay a good body shop.

It is easy to sneer at someone trying to do a job with limited resources but not much help when that is all you have to work with.

The questioner indicated he was going to try to fix it himself. I tried to offer some suggestions that would make things go better or easier.

[nj viking]

1. black beauty

2. dollys , pullers and hammers

3 2 part epoxy

4 then filler.. no more bondo, ..........evercoat; much nicer.

5 paint.

much easier nowadays..

[Dave72dt]

You are both right but some people do not have the resources to do it "right" or the $$$$ to pay a good body shop.

It is easy to sneer at someone trying to do a job with limited resources but not much help when that is all you have to work with.

The questioner indicated he was going to try to fix it himself. I tried to offer some suggestions that would make things go better or easier.

I know the kind of results Mark is getting can come out of a single car garage by a non-professional with limited tools and equipment because it is. Granted, it's not the first vehicle I've painted, but each one I do is better than the one before. Those are my standards. I have no problems with people using the methods you suggested. Certainly an alternative. Like I said. Many different ways to do it right.

[ggdad1951]

I know the kind of results Mark is getting can come out of a single car garage by a non-professional with limited tools and equipment because it is. Granted, it's not the first vehicle I've painted, but each one I do is better than the one before. Those are my standards. I have no problems with people using the methods you suggested. Certainly an alternative. Like I said. Many different ways to do it right.

yah, I don't think anyone was "sneering".

[jmooner3]

Guys - I certainly appreciate the advice, there is a wealth of knowledge here on this forum and I have learned a bunch so far.

Body work and paint seems like yet another art...Plenty of right ways to do it. I've only ever done a little. Rockers and fenders on 10year old cars. The times I have patched with bondo clearly I didn't prep right (not sure what to do) because within a year it was cracking and rust must have started underneath.

Got a welder for christmas last year, welded in a couple patches on fenders, used filler, sanded, then primed and painted and they came out awesome. Paint color was a little off but smooth and still looks good.

Again I appreciate all of your input, all is good advice. Advice is free right? and people will choose what they want from it no disrespect. After you weld in a patch and grind it close to the right shape. How do you seal it and, what do you use to fill it? Thanks!

[Dave72dt]

I use butt welds, grind down to near surface and then match to the surface with either a Roloc disc or a flap wheel, check for pinholes. Pinholes get welded up. Warpage gets corrected as it occurs. Low or high spots get dollied and then filled followed by epoxy primer and 2k primer.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Guys - I certainly appreciate the advice, there is a wealth of knowledge here on this forum and I have learned a bunch so far.

Body work and paint seems like yet another art...Plenty of right ways to do it. I've only ever done a little. Rockers and fenders on 10year old cars. The times I have patched with bondo clearly I didn't prep right (not sure what to do) because within a year it was cracking and rust must have started underneath.

Got a welder for christmas last year, welded in a couple patches on fenders, used filler, sanded, then primed and painted and they came out awesome. Paint color was a little off but smooth and still looks good.

Again I appreciate all of your input, all is good advice. Advice is free right? and people will choose what they want from it no disrespect. After you weld in a patch and grind it close to the right shape. How do you seal it and, what do you use to fill it? Thanks!

The surface must be clean of rust and grease or wax. Grinding off the paint is recommended but frankly if the paint is stuck on good it won't hurt anything.

Any holes will allow moisture to come through, cause rust and lift the filler. Any welding slag or brazing flux likewise, will cause bubbles. Sandblasting is recommended or, a wire brush in a drill then kill rust with metal prep.

Have used seam sealer or butyl caulking to seal small gaps when in a hurry and never had a problem. This can be a handy trick on a long seam on a flat panel like a door, they tend to warp if you weld them solid.

The filler will last as long as the metal underneath if it is applied properly.