Valve Gap Adjustment

[Powerhouse]

Hello all.

I decided to do the valve gap adjustment finally at 1000 miles after the rebuild. I did it hot running and then not running as well. The diagram I made came in handy. BUT...It seems to clack louder now. I don't get it. I even slowed the rpm down to where I could read the DCPD on the lifters! hahaha Anyway, it seems to be not changing the clack from the valves.

Any pointers?

I set hot Intake at 8 and hot exhaust at 10.

Edited February 12, 2012 by Powerhouse

[Jerry Roberts]

When your engine is running , slip your feeler gauge into the gap of each valve and listen . When you reach the one that is clacking loudly , it will get quieter with the gauge in there and you can give it a little more adjustment . Perhaps everything is alright as is . They are normally a little noisy . Better too loose than too tight .

Edited February 12, 2012 by Jerry Roberts

[Powerhouse]

Thanks. I tried that to no avail. No difference across the board.

The confusing thing is...that clacking noise wasn't there before I did the adjustment. I am definitely closing the gap and not opening it. I just don't get it...

It sounds like crap now...kind of like a tin can with a bunch of washers in it. I should have just let it be. But I read and was told to make sure and adjust the valves after the rebuild.

Edited February 12, 2012 by Powerhouse

[Rusty O'Toole]

You did right to check them. Sometimes the adjustment closes up as they break in.

They should not be noisy. I know it is not a very enticing prospect but you will have to go over them again.

[Powerhouse]

well...i checked them again. I had to go out and buy a new set of gauges at the auto store...a whole $6. Mine were kinda old and the tips were all out of shape.

I checked them all cold. They still needed tightening up a tad. I set the ex at .014 and the int at .010. I checked them again while running and hot....ex - .010, int - .008. The seemed just right. It does sound a bit quieter but The noise didn't quiet down while inserting the gauges at all. I am beginning to think something else decided to start making noise just when I decided to do the valves. I have no idea what though. It runs strong though..so I guess it's fine.

I will play with the timing next...maybe that will do t? I don't see why though.

[Don Coatney]

Suggest you re-install the valve covers and then listen to it.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I did a complete proper engine rebuild on a 47 Chrysler T&C straight 8 engine for a customer (The engine burned oil) in 1982.

Broke the engine in. Valves were kinda ticky. Adjusted them hot .010" In/Ex. Still way too ticky sounding! These engines should never have valve noise!

Anyway the one thing that got done that I did not authorize to be done is the cam was reground by a big name cam rebuilder here. I always carefully check the cams/lifters out before the rebuild process starts on these MoPar flatheads. I have only had two bad MoPar flathead cams- this one was fine and ended up being noisy! The original cam and matched lifters had no wear problems and the engine was silent before the rebuild.

I do normally always replace cams/lifters on the V-8's/ 6's ect., but these MoPar flatties-no because new cams are not available and obviously I don't have much faith in our cam grinders.

Anyway the reground cam clearance ramp was the issue! Another cam and it was quiet.

What a waste of my time on that one!

[Powerhouse]

I reinstalled covers with nice fat new rubber gaskets...and checked timing...still noisy. Motor seems as powerful as before if not better.

It is really wierd that I am getting this ticking/rattleing noise when they weren't noisy to begin with. Any ideas on what else could make a noise that is constant with rpms? Sounds as if it is coming from the manifold side of the engine too...what the heck?!

I guess I should take a video and post it but I have to get batteries for the camera...will do tomorow.

[Don Coatney]

Is the noise coming from your fuel pump? You might want to invest in a mechanics Stethoscope. Found this one on line for 3 bucks.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=engine+stethoscope&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1024&bih=612&wrapid=tlif132912005229610&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=14120775352656237522&sa=X&ei=-8I4T9aXFO3DsQKm7vWmDg&ved=0CHoQ8wIwBQ#

[Powerhouse]

I listened to that fuel pump last night but the noise is definitely coming from up by the valves. I will take a video clip ASAP.

It seems to die out at higher rpms while driving...and then when I slow down it starts back up again.

It almost sounds like a loose washer or something rattling around in a tin can but it is pretty loud and seems to be coming from the valve/manifold area according to the stethoscope. With the stetho I can hear it pretty plainly on the manifold..but not very plainly on the valve covers? I tis not a steady noise as if it were happening every stroke...kind of more "rattley" I pulled the plugs out and checked for anything weird...looked fine. I even pushed on the valve heads for the heck of it to see if they wiggles at all..nothing...luckily.

[Don Coatney]

Is your heat riser ratteling?

[Powerhouse]

It does kind of have that sound to it...but I don't have a heat riser on my manifold anymore. I have a sort of customized stock manifold setup. The intake is a dual carb tube type manifold and the exhaust is a stocker with the heat riser, top port(ti int manifold) and passage to other end sealed up and a second dump out of the center from a circular whole I machined out. Works rather nicely.

I am beginning to wonder if it is a wrist pin or something like mentioned on the forum before....but the noise occurs at a different time and in a different place...hahaha.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Wrist pin can tick at idle, quiet down when you rev up.

[Niel Hoback]

A pinhole tiny exhaust leak can make a nasty little popping noise too.

Get a length of heater hose and listen aroung that side of the engine while its running.

Watch that hot pipe.

[Powerhouse]

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a9/m_maringola/?action=view&current=MVI_0050.mp4

FIGURED IT OUT! That stethoscope sure did help.

The noise would come and go...so I new it was something wierd.

It was my poor welding that was the problem. The plate I put in to block off the other end of the exhaust came loose nd was get tossed back and forth in the exhaust. After the valve job the exhaust was more powerfull I guess and rattled that thing loose.

If I take it out and just run it as a dual dump with no cut off/sepeartion between first 3 cylinders and last 3 cylinders would that hurt anything?

Edited February 14, 2012 by Powerhouse

[Powerhouse]

drove it around last night after the fix...and it was so nice.

this morning on the way to work was different story....the freakin carbs are now overflowing into the secondary barrels and causing it to chugg like crazy at idle and almost cut out!!!!! The fun never ends folks..as I am sure you all have experienced. hahaha

I am guessing Both carbs have blockage....out of no where! Seriously getting too be ridiculous with this car.

[Adrian41D-19]

ha ha this remind to me the same memory xith a 56 cadillac convertible

 

big tune up on it and ticking sound like you and finaly after days of reserch it's only an exhaust leak ^^

 

i have the same problem on my 48 dodge, but in my case, i need to check the valve adjustment before anything else. 

 

this morning i going to replace the brake shoes of my 41 dodge coupe, i use this car as a daily she run & drive very fine but need some care after the last big travel i made with her ^^

 

i drove it for aproxymatly 1000 miles last week in the south of france it's a very very cool travel !   (i'm french and i live in bordeaux)