I switched trans, (more work)

[Todd B]

I had a 3 speed on the floor on the back of 327 chev motor for the last 27 years in my b1b. When I gave it to my son he said he would like an automatic so his soon to be wife could drive it. I was OK with his decision because the cobbled clutch system we had I really never liked. I thought it would be a simple switch. My son found a 700R trans and said here you go dad. Well, I am changing the flywheel, starter, cross member, radiator, floor center piece, shifter, wiring, kick down brackets to the carb, electronic speedo and installing cooling lines. My father is no longer here to guide me so I am depending on help from others and this web site. My goal is to have it back on the road for July 2013. That will be my 30 year class reunion and most of my class remembers that truck (back in the day). Once I get past this trans thing I think I can handle it myself.

Todd B

[Dan Babb]

It is a lot of work just to change the trans. I kind wish that the stock trans would have been strong enough to put behind my hemi. It would have saved a ton of work.

What are you doing for the pedals? Does the truck still have the stock pedal setup?

[sniggle_t]

It doesn't sound that bad. The new trans should bolt right up to the engine. If you have the flywheel and torque converter for the new trans they should bolt right in also. The starter might be a bit tricky but that depends on if your 327 has both straight and angled patterns. If not, you may have to drill and tap one hole. Been there, done that, no big deal.

The cross member might be in to correct place already. If not, you may just have to move it a little. Is yours welded or bolted in? The driveshaft would be my biggest concern as you might have to have one made.

The other things like the kick-down, radiator, speedo, etc. will just take a little time and patience. July 2013 is a loooong way off. If you keep at it you should have no issue getting it done way before then.

[Todd B]

It is a lot of work just to change the trans. I kind wish that the stock trans would have been strong enough to put behind my hemi. It would have saved a ton of work.

What are you doing for the pedals? Does the truck still have the stock pedal setup?

The pedals was changed last time. They were mounted to the firewall and I am just taking the cluch pedal off, I tackled that yesterday. I also figured out the cross member. That also was an earlier change that just had to be moved and new holes drilled. I had to add 1/2" plates to move it down, the trans was very close to the original cross on the frame.

Todd

[Todd B]

It doesn't sound that bad. The new trans should bolt right up to the engine. If you have the flywheel and torque converter for the new trans they should bolt right in also. The starter might be a bit tricky but that depends on if your 327 has both straight and angled patterns. If not, you may have to drill and tap one hole. Been there, done that, no big deal.

The cross member might be in to correct place already. If not, you may just have to move it a little. Is yours welded or bolted in? The driveshaft would be my biggest concern as you might have to have one made.

The other things like the kick-down, radiator, speedo, etc. will just take a little time and patience. July 2013 is a loooong way off. If you keep at it you should have no issue getting it done way before then.

I did not think about the drive shaft, it will be to long, there is place in Green Bay that does that. I had one built for my camper. I was told they make an offset starter that will bolt in. If I remember right the 327 is a 1975.

How do you know what year a chevy small block is????

Thanks for all the inputs from you guys.

Todd B

[Plymouthy Adams]

I did not think about the drive shaft' date=' it will be to long, there is place in Green Bay that does that. I had one built for my camper. I was told they make an offset starter that will bolt in. If I remember right the 327 is a 1975.

How do you know what year a chevy small block is????

Thanks for all the inputs from you guys.

Todd B

I am not a chevy guru but I think the 327 was long gone before 1975..I believe 69 being the last year for production use of the 327

[sniggle_t]

Should be a pad on the right (passenger) side of the block behind where the alt. mounts. It should have a bunch of numbers stamped there telling what vehicle etc. it was in originally. I have seen decoders on the web before to translate that data. I too believe that the 327 went away after 1969.

[Todd B]

The #'s are F0309HCR, The second 0 seems to wider than the first, I am not sure if it is 0 or O.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Todd B

[48Dodger]

Well....according to the few pages left in my chevy book that I use to line the bird cage with....lol.

HCR build code: 1966 327ci 275hp 4bbl powerglide, Rochester Carb

(66 is the only year to use HCR)

F (Flint, Mich): Plant it was built at

0309: build date/ March 9th

48D

[Todd B]

Well....according to the few pages left in my chevy book that I use to line the bird cage with....lol.

HCR build code: 1966 327ci 275hp 4bbl powerglide, Rochester Carb

(66 is the only year to use HCR)

F (Flint, Mich): Plant it was built at

0309: build date/ March 9th

48D

Thank you, I printed this info and put my file. All these years I was mislead, I wonder what else is not what it seems to be. Is there a way to tell what a chevy rear end came out of?

Thanks again.

Todd B