fire damage repairs

[p24-1953]

well today i got a better look at everything. (granted everything is still covered in white powder and soot until the appraisers get here)

1.)it appears that the fire was mostly at the front passenger side. the fuel filter and first 2 spark plug wires are gone.

2.)the new sision choke i just installed looks blackened but okay (it is yet to be tested)

3.)the radiator hoses and rubber hood to radiator piece is gone, so is the heater box.

4.)carb and air filter look to be okay.

5.)it looks like the tie rods and suspension parts are okay.

6.)driver side of the engine doesn't seem to have any major fire damage, other than the original jiffy jet washer bottle is shattered.

7.)Odd thing is both radiator hoses are gone but he belts are still intact.

8.)Spark plug wires are all intact at the coil and distributor, but i will open the distributor to make sure the internals are okay. the wires leading to both of them are completely gone.

9.) unfortunately it appears that in the heat of the fire shorted out something and all the under hood wiring is toast, and some of the under dash wiring also. most of the insulation is gone or the bundled wires have merged into one. So i will have to rewire yet again.

so.... Here are my questions.

a.)could the localized heat to the passenger side damaged the block, intake, exhaust, or valves in anyway? should i replace all gaskets to be safe?

b.) will FEC powder kill an alternator/water pump or a/c compressor? Are these safe to reuse.

c.) Any tips on getting the FEC powder out of the a/c condenser and radiator grills?

d.) I have to get the car running under its own power to get in in to my garage.

What is the absolute minimum wiring that is required (which will have to be done on the street) to get the car to fire up and run. from the starter solenoid can i run a wire thru a switch to the negative terminal of the coil and by pass the dash and all other wire's? I would need to short the starter solenoid to turn the car over but it should run correct? I know i will also need a ground to the block, startercables and ground the distributor.

i plan on running a new fuel line connecting the 2 hard lines at the missing fuel pump, installing a older coil i have laying around, hard wiring the choke 75% closed and driving the car with no coolant for the 500 yard sit will require.

Does this sound like it will work?

Edited October 4, 2011 by p24-1953

[randroid]

P-24,

Whether or not the lack of coolant will do any damage is iffy but it won't do it any good so I suggest you replace the radiator hoses first and run straight water, which can be dumped once it's in the garage.

You need to isolate the ignition system so disconnect everything from the VR so no juice will get into the system and make any bad wires glow again. Hot-wire the dist and coil (and ground the coil) from your battery and jump the starter solenoid to get it running. You can get gas to the carb via a siphon hose and a gas can on the fender but be careful because you wouldn't want an engine fire.

That's how I'd do it on my P-15 but you know your wiring better than I so use what I said only as a guide.

-Randy

[Young Ed]

After I crashed my car I drove it briefly without a radiator with no harm done. But you must keep it brief! 500y should be fine just start it drive and shut it down quick

[Plymouthy Adams]

the powder from the extinguisher is not good for bearings and coummutators..I would clean the generator good..the water pump should be fine..the AC compressor also is a sealed unit and can be washed and flushed with water externally without cause for alarm..only thing there is it could have melted the internal clutch coil if fire was centralized near it. The engine should be fine, look close to your fittings and such at or near the fuel pump, fuel pump itself, look at the oil pressure short flex line to ensure no damage there..replacing hoses and rewire will get you cranked up and running and you can do a good test and am sure you will have the doghouse off the car to prep it again for paint..as the metal is also burned below and out of sight..this must be addressed..most folk say a burnt panel cannot be salvaged but if you have access to both side using today's products you can save it. Just be sure it is not warped out of shape..good part is these cars were real heavy metal..back to the car with the doghouse off..doing it this way will allow the body work to be done off and away fron the car while you address detaining the engine and wiring and other firewall issues. As for the Jiffy Wash bottle..I know where a number of these are...hint hint