Chrysler 251 price check

[Oberstar]

What would be fair market value for a running and complete Chrysler 251 Spitfire 6cyl? I love the engine as its a quiet flathead and really makes the Dodge WC move, but I would like to get the original 218 rebuilt as its a little more 'correct'. Anyway, the oil pressure is a consistent 40-50psi and it would be pulled as is from the Dodge, so when I mean complete with accessories, it's everything. Don't want to ask an arm and a leg, but would like to recoup some of the cost of the rebuild.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Kind of difficult to answer, it depends if anyone in your area needs one. I will say $200 to $500. How do I know, well that is my guess.

It might be easier to get the higher price if the engine is in the car and the customer can see it run and drive it. Or, you could make a demonstration video before you take it out.

[B1B Keven]

Ya OB, that's kinda what I was thinkin'. I searched around and couldn't find any used 251's for sale.

Did you get a hold of a 'correct' 218?

[Niel Hoback]

Its gotta have a "P" on the head!

[Tom Skinner]

OberStar,

If you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay there is a guy that is (here lately) trying to sell a recently (Totally) rebuild 251 for $1,999.

I would think you could beat that price, however, even to do a (complete)

rebuild yourself using say Kanter's Kit would be @ $1,400 just for parts.

That being said a 251 engine that is say $500 is probably a pretty tired or not running engine. Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) would be wise to say here.

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

OberStar,

My bad I misread your post. I see now you are going to sell a 251.

Well thats different, but I would say with all the fixins you could probably get

$1,500 - $2,500 for a good strong engine.

Tom

[Reg Evans]

I would say before pulling the engine ... warm it up and give it a compression test. If the readings are all similar and over 100 lbs you could probably find a buyer for around $500.

[55 Fargo]

OberStar,

If you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay there is a guy that is (here lately) trying to sell a recently (Totally) rebuild 251 for $1,999.

I would think you could beat that price, however, even to do a (complete)

rebuild yourself using say Kanter's Kit would be @ $1,400 just for parts.

That being said a 251 engine that is say $500 is probably a pretty tired or not running engine. Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) would be wise to say here.

Tom

I dunno Tom, around these parts, we would not pay those sorta prices for a rebuild only or tired engine.

I would venture to guess rebuild or tired = $100-$250, strong and rebuilt $500-$700 range, I think at prices between $1000 -$2000, gonna be a tougher sell, and there are lots of dreamers and gougers on Epay trying to sell things for high prices.

I am sure the engine is worth more money, than it will be sold for, getting a buyer is another story. I do know if this were close to me, I would definately be interested.... shipping, a whole other story

[BeBop138]

I would think the 251-265 are getting hard to come by---I paid $250 for a 265 that needed a total rebuild. A 251-265 that runs good---compression good and no smoke--- $500 bucks isn`t to bad for a ready to use engine---my 2 cents............Lee

[Don Coatney]

rebuild yourself using say Kanter's Kit would be @ $1,400 just for parts.

If I were looking to rebuild any engine Knater is the last place I would look for parts at that price.

I would say before pulling the engine ... warm it up and give it a compression test. If the readings are all similar and over 100 lbs you could probably find a buyer for around $500.

I bought my 251 completely disassembled but it came with new pistons, new timing gears and timing chain, rings, new valves, valve guides, all bearings including new cam bearings, and most machine work done, and misc (freeze plugs gaskets) etc. for about $500.00 if memory serves me well. This was several years ago so at the prices today I would say add 25-30%. I did not like the crankshaft michrometer readings on my engine so I had the crank turned and bought new bearings but sold the new bearings included in my purchase price for close to a direct trade off. Add a regrind on my camshaft and I put my engine together completly rebuilt for about $750.00. As I did the assembly myself there is a "trust" factor involved as I know everything inside my engine is good to go. Buying a used engine with good compression and good oil pressure minus the "trust" factor and the reground camshaft would drop the price somewhat.

[Tom Skinner]

I agree with Don on the parts supplier thing, however I was using them as an example. The Kanter Master Kit has it all for that price so they were easy to plug in for the example.

I would most Likely go with Terrill Machine out of Texas for parts, or even Andy Bernbaum out of Massachussetts. Heck if I was closer to Washington State I would go buy it for $500. But I'm way down here in North Carolina so no dice.

Anyway I personally think a good 251 at $500 is a heck of a deal for anyone that can drive and pick it up for that price.

Tom

[Rusty O'Toole]

Forgot to ask if it is the partial flow or full flow oil filter? Also why do you want to change it? I appreciate it is not the original engine but it is better than the original engine?

[Oberstar]

Rusty, the 251 is nicer, but it doesn't belong in a WWII Dodge;). The engine isn't getting ripped out and sold to the first person with a $20 bill, I just wanted to see what to expect if I do trade it out. As far as the oil filter, it has a NAPA full filter now, but before, it had an oil filter housing filled with what looked like steel wool? is that the partial you refer to?

[Rusty O'Toole]

About 1950 Chrysler introduced a full flow oil filter, it looked like an aluminum tower on the side of the engine. Used on Chrysler sixes up to 1954 and on some industrial engines.

Standard oil filter was a partial flow add on. It was clamped onto the engine by brackets and plumbed into the oil system by small pipes like brake lines.

All modern engines use the full flow filter, so this is a modern feature for the flathead 6.

Nice to have but not a deal breaker.It is one of those little things that make an engine more desirable.

The partial flow filter does a more thorough job of filtering but only filters part of the oil, about 1/10 at a time. The full flow filter filters all the oil but is coarser and does not get the oil as clean. The theory is the small particles of dirt are too small to harm the bearings and parts. So the oil looks cleaner with a partial flow.

If you have the partial flow setup it is best to keep the original filter and use the correct, fine filtering cartridges.

Are you sure you are not thinking of the air filter? The oil filter should have had a removable lid and inside a replaceable cartridge. The cartridges are still available, they are used on tractors trucks and Mercedes diesel cars.

Edited September 24, 2011 by Rusty O'Toole

[55 Fargo]

About 1950 Chrysler introduced a full flow oil filter' date=' it looked like an aluminum tower on the side of the engine. Used on Chrysler sixes up to 1954 and on some industrial engines.

Standard oil filter was a partial flow add on. It was clamped onto the engine by brackets and plumbed into the oil system by small pipes like brake lines.

All modern engines use the full flow filter, so this is a modern feature for the flathead 6.

Nice to have but not a deal breaker.It is one of those little things that make an engine more desirable.

The partial flow filter does a more thorough job of filtering but only filters part of the oil, about 1/10 at a time. The full flow filter filters all the oil but is coarser and does not get the oil as clean. The theory is the small particles of dirt are too small to harm the bearings and parts. So the oil looks cleaner with a partial flow.

If you have the partial flow setup it is best to keep the original filter and use the correct, fine filtering cartridges.

Are you sure you are not thinking of the air filter? The oil filter should have had a removable lid and inside a replaceable cartridge. The cartridges are still available, they are used on tractors trucks and Mercedes diesel cars.[/quote']

Here is a pic of my full flow oil filter on my 251 47 C38S engine, it is a taller type filter housing, but has the large lines, and is not the direct bolt onto the block type filter housing you mention Rusty. Are you familiar with this type?

[Rusty O'Toole]

It looks like the add on partial flow but with bigger lines. I have seen them before. You say this is a full flow so there are 2 types of full flow filter. The partial flow is similar to yours but with smaller oil lines.

[55 Fargo]

It looks like the add on partial flow but with bigger lines. I have seen them before. You say this is a full flow so there are 2 types of full flow filter. The partial flow is similar to yours but with smaller oil lines.

I have no idea if it is full flow or partial,just assuming, as per he size of the lines, it would depend on how it is plumbed into the block, would it not?

Edited September 24, 2011 by Rockwood

[Don Coatney]

I have no idea if it is full flow or partial,just assuming, as per he size of the lines, it would depend on how it is plumbed into the block, would it not?

It appears to be plumbed for full flow service. With the oil pan off you can make sure the pipe plug is installed per this drawing.

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Don, that is what I figured, any reference to the C38 engines state full flow oil filtration. But you never know what filters were used on the first engines for 1946 may have been....