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1949 Moredoor


falconvan

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I finished my hood peak and shot some epoxy primer on it; that'll hold it for a while. Im still not 100% sure where Im going with this; just doing one small mod at a time and see where it ends up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah, I did. I wanted a drop in and im not a Pertronix fan. I've bought two kits from them over the years and had problems with both. Someone on here did a slant six distributor conversion but never posted anything on how it worked after it was installed so I didnt want to do something untested.

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Yeah, I did. I wanted a drop in and im not a Pertronix fan. I've bought two kits from them over the years and had problems with both. Someone on here did a slant six distributor conversion but never posted anything on how it worked after it was installed so I didnt want to do something untested.
I tried the Langdon and did not like how close it was to the engine block----hard to adjust timing. I feel he has to much slop in the tang to the oil pump---the mechanical advance would tend to move on the marks. I went with the Chev inline six HEI---it sits up higher and adjustment is easier---not for everybody but it works well for me.

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That GM distributor sticks out like a sore thumb, but it works and its a self contained unit: just plug in keyed 12v and go.

Putting a slant six distributor on a flathead isnt that difficult, there is a very detailed thread on it.

I had a slant six distributor on my flatty and I can tell you the difference was like night and day: much quicker starts, idled smoother, had more power off idle, didnt matter if it was damp or raining it would start right up (it wouldn't do that with the points distributor).

One drawback to using the chrysler based electronic ignition is the seperate ignition box, ballast resistor and the extra wiring associated with it. Using a GM ignition module with the slant 6 distributor will eliminate the ballast resistor and be a little easier to hide, plus they are cheaper than the chrysler box/ballast resistor

Heres my setup:

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Edited by Daliant.
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I see what you mean about the HEI; the one I got from him was the mini HEI with the seperate coil so i think it wont be so bulky. That slant six setup looks good, too. It'll be here Tuesday so I'm anxious to get it installed and see the difference.

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use the GM module and you have to split it wide open to try and trouble shoot it where the simple Mopar split system is troubleshoot 1-2-3 and fixed for a whole lot less money..I have never had a failed Mopar module..its physical size is the main reason for its durability and longevity...have lost a ballast resistor mainly due to water on opening the hood when hot and get a rush of cold water and the random bad pickup in the distributor..GM has always sold cars at a lower entry price knowing fully well they will be making it up in daily repair and parts replacement sales..

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I once toyed with using a furd V-6 distributor. It would work but it was so bulky I would have had to modify the battery box and inner fender. I also once installed a Mallory electronic (distributor point fired) ignition box and a giant coil. First drive the engine died twice while sitting at a stop light. I was able to restart it, drove home, and re-installed my dual point distributor. Dual points allow longer dwell that equates to more coil saturation time and a hotter spark. Been running dual points ever sence.

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I did a little boneyard shopping on the way home from work today. After watching Robert Horne's thread on using the Ranger 5 speed I'm convinced it will work so I got one of those and an 8.8 Explorer rear end with disc brakes and a 3:73 limited slip.

So far so good on the trans install. Still looking for a Explorer rearend, but for now, I will use the stock rearend for a test. I cut down a Ranger driveshaft to 41" for the test. A Explorer 2dr, 2WD driveshaft is 41", when I can find one.

You may need a longer driveshaft though.

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I ordered my Langdon's flathead HEI distributor today. :D

I have been running the Langdon's Mini HEI for close to 5 years with zero issues. Dropped it is, set the timing and been running great since.

I will agree that the hold down is a bit tough to get to when adjusting the timing but once it is set you are good to go.

Also other than the cap being a bit taller, it doesn't look out of place or like a non-stock distrubutor and if you go with the round standard looking coil most will never know you are not stock.

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Edited by hkestes41
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I got my Ranger trans front plate back from the machine shop. They did an awesome job; they made this snout for the Dodge throwout bearing to ride on. Reasonable price, too. It's Morley Performance in Fenton, Missouri if anyone wants to check them out online or on Facebook. Great shop with some cool projects going on.

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I got my HEI installed; wow, what a difference in throttle response! Very easy to do; only took a few hours. Anyone interested im my old stuff before it goes on Ebay? Cap, rotor, wires, and coil are all new; perfect for a 12v conversion. $60 and it's all yours; distributor and ballast resistor, too.

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