Joe Flanagan Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 I second Andy's advice. I faced a similar situation when I removed the rear axle on my Plymouth. I used a degreaser and let it sit for a while and then hosed it down. Repeated the process over several days. In places, I used a wire wheel. There is also a product called Easy Off, which is an oven cleaner, that works well for this. I wiped everything down with lacquer thinner just before painting. I just used Rustoleum in a spray can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 If you even consider pressure washing the transmission to help clean the crud off of it be sure and have a yolk installed into the tail shaft and use tape on the input shaft to bearing retainer to prevent water from going up into the transmission. Over the years I have bought several overdrive transmission for Chevrolets and a few BW T-5s, all were clean and supposedly just removed from running vehicles. All had water in them from being pressure washed. When I buy one now I place the output end into a one gallon bucket and stand the transmission on the output end and watch the water pour out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hi Update on my ongoing project. I managed to get a really good package deal on some workshop equipment - engine crane, leveller and engine stand (AUD$389 the lot @ Glenfords). Happy days!! I've been just doing small bits and pieces on cleaning up & painting the transmission, park brake etc, but with the new tools, was set to get the main unit out. Worked on it this evening and...its out! I was ably assisted by my eldest (though we did have an incident with the top of the crane arm breaking a window pane on an old door which has been used as a shelf above the workshop:o Gave us a jump, but we laughed like hell!! Too busy looking at the engine clearance over the chassis to think about the height limit above!!) Anyways, here it is out of the car now. These really are big, heavy lumps of metal. I'll now set about taking off the bellhousing and assembly and getting it onto a stand for some further work. I'm getting a lot of enjoyment out of doing this project. Could be habit forming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 What great memories you and your son will have. Congratulations. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Probably the only kid in Australia to have his picture taken beside an old flathead since . . . who knows? It's great he wants to do that with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-12 Tommy Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Congrats on yankin' it out. The father/son thing is really cool! Have fun! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatS.... Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 This carb kit should be available from a local independent parts store that handles Standard Motor Products or Hygrade Carb kits. New and under $25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Thank you very much for that info Pat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I finished refurbing the parking brake mechanism - an easy little cleanup and painting process. Only new split pins to get yet. I've decided that while I am going to take the engine and transmission back to resemble the stock factory colours, I'm also going to take some small liberties here and there to personalise it. I guess the paint I used on this mechanism isn't "text book", but I kinda like how the finish came out. Before and after shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Today I removed the bellhousing covers and then also the clutch outer. No major grooves or flaws to my eyes, but I'm a clutch 'virgin' so to speak, so perhaps you all can comment on how this looks to you? The next task is to remove the fluid drive unit.... Am I reading correctly in my shop manual that this is achieved by undoing and removing the nuts located on the rear of the fluid drive unit, between it and the crank flange? If so, what an interesting job that is going to be.... Photos of clutch and faces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbagestate 44 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 The fluid drive to flange connection shouldn't be too tough. You'll need an open end wrench to get at the nuts as the space is real tight and won't be reachable with a box wrench. You won't be able to turn them all the way off in one shot. When they are all loose you pull the coupling away from the flange to remove them the rest of the way. The flange holes are spaced so that the coupling will only go on one way.I think Don C has posted pictures of that in the past. You'll see that when you get the coupling off. The hard part might be keeping the motor from turning as you try to loosen the bolts although they came right off for me. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatS.... Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Those FD bolts are a great job for a young one with little fingers and lots of patience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Oh . . . THAT'S why you had him out there. The little fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 ...The hard part might be keeping the motor from turning as you try to loosen the bolts although they came right off for me. Good luck I tried briefly to undo a couple of the nuts with no success. Ended up just turning the motor over. Can anyone suggest a good way to prevent the crank from turning while I'm putting some pressure on the wrench? I guess I could just lower the unit down until the flywheel is resting on the ground and let the weight of the engine prevent it from turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 If you have the pan off, wedge a piece of 2x4 between the crank journal and the block. I think the last time I had to pull my FD unit off my engine I used a small pry bar between two other nuts to hold it from turning while I loosened and tightened the nuts. It also wouldn't hurt to put some kind of line up marks between the crank flange and FD unit to make it easier to allign when reinstalling it. As has been mentioned the stud holes are not symetrical. One is a little off so that it can only go on one way. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbagestate 44 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I forgot to mention that I had the pan off when removed the coupling and did as suggested with a 2x4 wedged between the crank throw and the inside of the block. Since you're going to pull the pan anyway, That will make things much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jordan Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 I hope this isn't too silly a question but... is it possible to adjust the emergency brake while it's out of the car. I have never been able to get it just right and now that the transmission is out I can easily reach everything. just curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rob..........looks like you and your son have been having some fun......couple of things.....the clutch plate looks like it could do with replacing whilst you have access to it, also I'd get the pressure plate refaced at the very least whilst you have access to that also.......also did you "mark" where the pressure plate bolted onto the fluid drive unit........similar to what would have been done if it had just a normal flywheel...if you have access to the bolts/nuts with the ringgear/flywheel on the ground then that will work as good as any other way.............btw if you are gunna paint it mopar silver try and get paint that doesn't need heat from a running engine to "cure" it.......most silver paints are a "soft" paint, consequently after painting they take a while to really dry hard or need heat........without either they tend to come off easily on your hands........look around for a good quality paint.........anyway have fun.....lol.....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 ...the clutch plate looks like it could do with replacing whilst you have access to it, also I'd get the pressure plate refaced at the very least whilst you have access to that also Andy - I got a parts/price list from Jim Robinson, but this doesn't have any reference to clutch. Would he have a clutch place you reckon? I'm going to assume this isn't going to be a readily available 'off the shelf' plate that my local shop is going to have in stock... .......also did you "mark" where the pressure plate bolted onto the fluid drive unit........similar to what would have been done if it had just a normal flywheel... Photo below - this was a good example (for me at least) of why it is so important to have the Shop Manual's available to read FIRST before tearing headlong into much. It was on my SECOND reading of the manual that I properly understood the reference to marking the plates prior to removal. I've also used my Dremel to make a mark on the fluid drive unit and crank flange before I go any further to separate them. I've been making a point of grabbing a coffee (or beer...) before getting my hands dirty and just reading the manual for what needs to be done. I know it won't save me from making some dumb mistakes along the way, but hopefully it might minimise the extent of any screw ups! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 I hope this isn't too silly a question but...is it possible to adjust the emergency brake while it's out of the car. I have never been able to get it just right and now that the transmission is out I can easily reach everything. just curious Hi Don I hope one of the others will chime in on your query - this is my first hands-on with the parking brake mechanism, so I've got not idea really on where to 'set' it as yet, other than to have it loose enough so that the drum will turn. Any advice on just how 'loose' the fit should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 I hope this isn't too silly a question but...is it possible to adjust the emergency brake while it's out of the car. I have never been able to get it just right and now that the transmission is out I can easily reach everything. just curious You can adjust the clearances bewteen the pad and the drum while it is out of the car. The shop manual gives directions. Adjusting the length of the brake cable will have to be done with the transmission back in the car. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rob, Jim probably will have the bits,but I'd check with a local brake/clutch place as the clutch & pressure plate look like normal pieces to me, also whats the throwout bearing like?.......I have never played with a fluid drive so am not sure how parts compare to the non FD parts ........I'd be renewing the throwout bearing also unless its 100%..........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Rob, Jim probably will have the bits,but I'd check with a local brake/clutch place as the clutch & pressure plate look like normal pieces to me, also whats the throwout bearing like?.......I have never played with a fluid drive so am not sure how parts compare to the non FD parts ........I'd be renewing the throwout bearing also unless its 100%..........andyd I'll investigate with one of the local outfits, but Jim has advised he has only 1 left for the fluid drive unit and it has 'some surface rust' so is willing to sell it for $80, down from the $125 list. Whaddayareckon? I think the fluid drive / non-fluid drive plates differ in that the 'standard' clutch plates have damper springs - my fluid drive plate doesn't. Would this make sense? Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Rob, 30% off sounds fine by me, as mentioned I haven't played with an FD setup b4 so the lack of springs appears to be correct as shown in your pic.....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Hi all I Managed to get the engine block off the crane and onto the engine stand today. I had my youngest little helper with me to get the oil pan off - see photo - we had fun and he's great at turning the ratchet. I then managed to get the fluid drive unit off the crank. To do this I purchased a cheap set of wrenches and used the grinding wheel to narrow the ring end of a 5/8 spanner to get it between the block and nuts. As recommended by you fine fellows, I then used a block of wood to keep the crank from turning - worked a treat and easy off. Heavy beast though! Tonight I got down to popping out the freeze plugs in the full knowledge that there would be a lot - a LOT - of sludge in this head. As you can see, I wasn't disappointed! I had a good belly laugh when I managed to shift enough crud from the first plug that the remaining water in the head finally evacuated itself - all over me! I foresee a strong hose jet and a wire poker thingy in my immediate future as I try to clean it out some more.... Lovin it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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