Full flow oil filter on 251 truck motor?

[austinsailor]

I went by the shop today and my 251 truck motor is ready to be picked up. All the machine work is done, it's looking good. One corner of the block was cracked where the bolt goes in, but we found a workaround with no welding involved. But that is another story.

My machinist tells me it is designed to take a full flow oil filter, and it looks to me like he is right. On the block side, around the pressure relief valve area, is a diamond shaped machined area. I will get pictures tomorrow afternoon, but he says that the top and bottom holes in this diamond shaped area are the output of the oil pump and the input to the oil galley.

Right now I just don't recall what was there. I'm sure when I go through all my parts it'll come back to me, but I know it was not a filter. It had the usual bypass filter hanging on the side of the motor.

Now to the question - what do I need to put a full flow filter on this thing? I'm assuming someone knows more than me and can figure out what the heck I'm talking about. It sure appears that it was designed to take one.

Anyone know what I'm talking about?

[greg g]

Talk to Don C.

[Dodgeb4ya]

If you want the factory look- You will need 2 proper sized rubber O-Rings to fit in the 2 machined circular grooves in the block. They will seal the inlet and outlet oil passages to the aluminum filter housing. You need to find a oil filter housing off any 1949-54 Chrysler 6 cylinder 251 to 265 engine or any that look like the picture. Use (2) 3/8" X 1-1/2" SAE bolts and 2 lock washers to bolt it on.

Edited April 14, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya

[BeBop138]

Austin, if the pics are the same on your block you are all set for the full flow filter--I may have an extra filter housing if you need it.............Lee:D

[austinsailor]

Yes, it looks like that. And I am interested in getting one.

Gene

[Don Coatney]

There is one very important step that must be done to make this full flow filter work. If your engine originally had a full flow filter this plug as pictured below may already be installed. If your engine originally had a by-pass filter then you need to install the pipe plug per the drawing below. The internal threads should already be inside the oil passage inside the block. You need to find a pipe plug as is pictured in the second picture. I also recommend you drill/tap, and install a petcock drain in your filter housing if you dont already have one. In my opinion the NAPA 1062 filter is the best one to use.

[austinsailor]

You guys are great! I figured I'd eventually get this figured out, but I didn't think it would be almost instantaneous.

[austinsailor]

Does anyone make an adapter for a spin on filter for these? That would be the best of all worlds, to be able to just put on a big spin on like my Dodge diesel has, or something similar.

[Don Coatney]

Does anyone make an adapter for a spin on filter for these? That would be the best of all worlds, to be able to just put on a big spin on like my Dodge diesel has, or something similar.

Use the search function on the tool bar above and you will find lots of answers to your question.

[austinsailor]

I never found anything in the archives, but my NAPA store went in back and came back with a remote mount for the filter, one that takes a great big spin on filter. Add two lines from the block to the filter and back and I'm done. cost about $37 for the mount and filter, hoses will be extra.

I had in mind one that would fit on the block like the cartridge one does, but I once had a Ford Escort diesel and both filters were mounted up on the frame, so this doesn't seem so strange.