louie the fly Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 I notice that the disc brake conversions have the steering arms mounted on the outside of the caliper mounting plate, and from what I see this is the only way it can be done. What effect, if any, does moving the steering arms inwards (by the thickness of the plate - 6 or so mm) have on the steering setup? Many of the kits I've seen on the web look like they use a 1/4" plate. Mine is a 54 Australian Dodge with the 3 hole spindles. Quote
rustyzman Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Toe will have to be corrected in that case. Drag link may be OK as is unless the steering wheel ends up off center because of the angle difference from the pitman arm to the steering arm. Not really sure how much it will be affected. Quote
Andydodge Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Louie, have attached a couple of pics I took tonite of my disc brake setup...........I have the same 3 hole stub axle, mine are ex 1962 Chrysler Royal, but are the same from 1941, I used 3/8th plate as the basic adaptor plate, and welded 2" wide by approx 1/2" thick bungs onto the plate to provide a mounting boss for the calipers.......the discs are PBR brand Leyland P76 rotors and calipers using the stock P76 bearings with an adaptor/spacer on the stub axle to move the inner bearing out and provide for the inner oil seal to run..........if you look closely you can see that i have the plate mounting from the outside with the single upper and two lower bolts inserted from the outside. The clearance here is not much and all three bolts have had their heads countersunk and the holes into which they fit have also been countersunk. By countersinking these bolts there is sufficent clearance between the bolt heads and the inner side of the disc rotor.............anyway trust this helps........I have taken a template of the caliper bracket.......just can't remember where it is.......lol.........let me know if you want a copy.........lol..........andyd Quote
Drdialtone Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Does anyone know what disks/calipers were used with the PLYDO conversion plate? I'm told Volare, but not sure and on mine, I don't see any distinguishing numbers or stamps to help identify them. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Does anyone know what disks/calipers were used with the PLYDO conversion plate? I'm told Volare, but not sure and on mine, I don't see any distinguishing numbers or stamps to help identify them. Quote
Drdialtone Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Don, You are a wellspring of information!! Thanks!! Do you know what the "brake pedal booster" is that is referenced at the bottom of the PLYDO document? Thanks, Kirk Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Don,You are a wellspring of information!! Thanks!! Do you know what the "brake pedal booster" is that is referenced at the bottom of the PLYDO document? Thanks, Kirk I dont know but I suspect it is a vacuum powered brake booster. Give Plydo a call. Quote
littlemo Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Don, how many times have you actually posted this Plydo directions sheet ????? lol, Cass, alias Littlemo ... Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Don, how many times have you actually posted this Plydo directions sheet ????? lol, Cass, alias Littlemo ... Apparently not enough. Do you want me to post it again? Quote
Alshere59 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 It made a pretty big difference on toe in on mine. Granted I don't know what it was before I started but after it really needed adjustment. Also had to take out the master cylinder check valve and replace with a 2 lb residual valve in the front due to dragging front brakes. I put a 10 lb in the rear as well. I am using the original master cylinder for now. Quote
Ray Bell Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 Toe is not an issue... you can easily correct that... But Ackerman is. Moving the steering arm inwards will seriously increase Ackerman, so the inside wheel will turn much more relative to the outside wheel, inner edge tyre wear and tyre squeal will result. Quote
190bearplace Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 Ray, Will shimming the arms in change the ackerman? I thought it was the angle of the arm itself that changed toe out on turns and that would remain the same wouldn't it? It has been a long time since alignment class and my memory isn't the best anymore. Quote
Alshere59 Posted March 17, 2011 Report Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Never heard of Ackerman in all honesty. I knew the wheels had different angles and why in a turn but not the how. I do see your point after a bit of reading though. It would change both the angle and length. Would the effect be that pronounced with roughly 3/16 of an inch on both sides. Also how would the increase in length play out. I think I'm happier not knowing. If anyone else was wondering what Ackerman is here is one of the sights I was reading. http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/ackerman.html Edited March 17, 2011 by Alshere59 Quote
Mustang6147 Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 I am searching for shocks sizes or part numbers, and no where anywhere are there part numbers for shocks? Quote
Alshere59 Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 Try here. http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf Quote
PatS.... Posted March 26, 2011 Report Posted March 26, 2011 I am searching for shocks sizes or part numbers, and no where anywhere are there part numbers for shocks? I used shocks for the front of a 73-87 Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton on my 50 Dodge with the shock bracket kit. Quote
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