Door Lock Cylinder Retainer Screw ??

[55 Fargo]

I have tried unsuccessfully, over the past few years to drill out the right door lock cyl retainer screw.

I have managed to drill into the screw about an 1/8 of an inch, my small drill bits break easily.

I have not tried the following, left drill bits, cobalt bits, screw extractors.

I need to get this cyl out, so I can swap in a new/used latch, that way the lock will hold, when locked.

I have read the archived threads on this, any success stories with this task.

My left side, unscrewed, and I have cleaned up the threads with a tap, and new screw, all is well on that side, the machine screw is a 10/32, about 3/4 of an inch long.Thanx Fred ps cannot use heat, very difficult tight spot

[busycoupe]

I savaged some locks out a junk d24 and after unsuccessfully trying to back out the set screw, I took off the door panel to get a better look. What I discovered was that the set screw was in a sheet metal tab. I was able to bend the tab slightly with a long, thin screwdriver. Perhaps you could bend the tab enough on your door to swap the locks, then carefully bend it back.

[55 Fargo]

I savaged some locks out a junk d24 and after unsuccessfully trying to back out the set screw, I took off the door panel to get a better look. What I discovered was that the set screw was in a sheet metal tab. I was able to bend the tab slightly with a long, thin screwdriver. Perhaps you could bend the tab enough on your door to swap the locks, then carefully bend it back.

I have ponderd this, and will try, my goal was to drill this sucker out, but the SS screws are as hard as rock......Fred

[Jerry Roberts]

I have ponderd this, and will try, my goal was to drill this sucker out, but the SS screws are as hard as rock......Fred

I have used cobalt bits on hard steel with good luck .

[faucet47custom]

The bracket that holds the lock and handle assembly in my D24 ended up coming out so I did it out of the car. PITA by the way.

[55 Fargo]

The bracket that holds the lock and handle assembly in my D24 ended up coming out so I did it out of the car. PITA by the way.

Do you mean the latch assembly bracket, I have had these out and in, on these cars, not too bad, or do you mean the retainer bracket where the screw goes into that holds the lock cyl in place.

I just removed a lock latch assembly from a parts car the other day, it was really easy to do.......Fred

[faucet47custom]

its the bracket that the set screw is in. I ended up gently prying the lock cylinder out of the bracket, but I am tearing mine apart to prep for paint and wasn't worried about damaging the paint.

[55 Fargo]

its the bracket that the set screw is in. I ended up gently prying the lock cylinder out of the bracket, but I am tearing mine apart to prep for paint and wasn't worried about damaging the paint.

Oh I get you now, if I can't drill it out, I may as well leave it alone, the reason for removing it is, for a latch/lock mechanism swap, but I suppose these cars are easy to break into, maybe should leave it alone.......Fred

[BobT-47P15]

As I recall, from many years ago, I couldn't drill out that darn set

screw either. I believe I took a punch of some type, tapped the

end of the lock shaft, which in turn pushed out the cylinder. It

just slid past the end of the set screw. Haven't tried to put a

lock back in yet.....just put a chrome pop-in cap in the lock hole.

I figure if you can tap the lock out, should be able to gently and

carefully tap it's replacement in. Guess I need to test that

theory some time. I have a couple nice looking locks, but no

key for them. Generally speaking, I don't want to lock a convertible

anyway. Would just be for looks. You can still lock the door from

the inside even with no lock cylinders in the door.

[55 Fargo]

I decided to go at this hard today, so pulled dooor panel, used a long screw driver, and bent the retainer screw mount slightly:eek:, and gently pried the lock cyl out of the door, only made a tiny scratch on paint, but can touch it up, it's very small.

I then swapped in the other lock/latch assembly, reinstalled the door handle, lock cyl, and now my doors close better, and lock:), which was my goal.

I found a tiny screw driver I dropped into the door a couple of years ago, and my inner door cavities are nice and clean, and no gunk.

The door lock works great from inside, and outside with the key, now all my locks work, both doors, trunk, and glove box...........

Edited October 26, 2010 by Rockwood

[BobT-47P15]

Good work, Fred.

Where there's a will, there's a way......as they say.

Of course, it helps to get some additional outside advice

along with that.

[55 Fargo]

Good work, Fred.

Where there's a will, there's a way......as they say.

Of course, it helps to get some additional outside advice

along with that.

Absolutely Bob, and Thanx to those who have advised me on this task.

I still have to put the door panel back on, but want to use new plastic on the door itself first for a moisture barrier.........thanx again

[busycoupe]

Congratulations! It always feels good when the job goes well.

Dave

[55 Fargo]

Congratulations! It always feels good when the job goes well.

Dave

Thanx Dave, I am still going to drill ou the screw at some point, gonna try cobalt bits, but in reality, don't need to now:D

[Niel Hoback]

See my signature.

[55 Fargo]

See my signature.

Hi Neil, my exact sentiments.

One thing on this donor door latch/lock, the handle no longer sags, the door shut much better, and the door is actually aliigned to the B pillar a bit better.

Go figure, I am thinking the passenger door on the parts coupe was not used as much as on my car, infact both latch lock assemblies had to be swapped in for the parts car, as the locks on my car would not hold........Fred

[Niel Hoback]

Credit Red Green. It sounds like you have done the right thing, maybe by accident or even out of desperation. At any rate, all is well, be happy. I am happy for you. You could say that sometimes you get lucky, but its more likely you simply did the right thing.