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Posted

After removing my old distributor and trying to install a newer distributor I ran into two problems!

l. The advance control arm on the newer one would not line up with the hold down bolt on the engine block. Completely different! And when I did try to use the new one on my engine it would not work because of interference on the engine block. So what to do? I just redrilled some holes to make the backet fit my engine configuration. So a newer distributor will not fit onto my engine per just what I stated but with a little jury rigging it will!!!!

2. i tried to start up the engine but it would not fire! I thought maybe I might have put the distributor in 180 out so I removed it and turned it 180 no luck there. So then I got this neat little spark gismo that lights up when its set in place on any of cyclinders. I did this to see if I was getting any spark and sure enough I was but I noticed that it was that my gismo was showing a slight bit of spark on every revolution of the distributor shaft!!!! So then I took a real good look at the cap and sure enough there are cracks in it (Darn). So now I haft to order a new distributo cap for my new jury rigged distributor. All this is because my old distributor hold down screw wore out and would not hold the points in place. Oh yes I started with two new old distributors and rebuilt one only to notice that the points were not evenly going in and out (More problems) So I went to the second one and rebuilt it with all the extra stuff from the other one. Guess that enough of that story!!!

So now I need a distributor cap and maybe someone can clue me into what year this unit is? I think its a 1953 Dodge but it might have come out of an old street sweeper engine??? But its a Chryslet distrutor and I should be able to get a cap? Well I hope I can at my local parts supply house.

Now can anyone give some info on what year this distributor is? It has parts No. 1479589

underthat? AT-40101 and next to that looks like

two 11 on there side followed by G31.6344

Thanks for the help and my back is bothering me from playing with that distributor from hell!!!! Or to be polically correct a distributor that needs help!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Jon:D

Posted

Found a new cap on the internet and ordered it up to arrive at our local parts store tomorrow. But still want to know about how to tell without taking the engine apart how do you tell when number one cyclinder is at the top of it power stroke??? Is there a neat little trick one can do to find this out????:cool:

Posted

Take the spark plug out and hold your figer over the hole while pulling the engine over with the fan. When you feel presure, line up the timing mark on he damper. No mark? removethe pipe plug over nmber six and lower a foot long piece of wire down until it hits the piston and you can see TDC exactly. Six and one reach the top at the same time.

Posted

That's one thing Henry Ford had a good idea about and that pin that srews in and out of the timming chain cover. When the pin goes in a notch inside the cover you are dead nuts on number one cyclinder-Simple!!!!

Posted

if your cylinder head has a plug over the piston area of #6 cylinder, remove the plug (no water will escape) and stick a phillips head in it, then hand turn the crank till #6 is at tdc. this will be the firing position for #6 and #1. the rotor for #1 should be at 7 O-clock. don't forget to re-install the plug before firing engine up.

Posted

the cylinder will be at 7 ONLY if the oil pump is properly indexed to the camshaft....who know what has been done over time and by whom...it takes just a little extra effort to ensure all is back to the factory specs..if you don't have a book on this..you should get one..worth its weight in gold..

Posted

I have done all the proper setting of number one cyclinder and the rotor is set at seven it just trying to get the dizy to have enough play in it to get it work correctly. By this I mean by the book and I do have a book in fact I have three!!!!

Posted

I have a timming mark on the crank shaft that has degrees on it and it set at the proper position-number one piston is top dead center-and the plug wire is located on the cap at seven oclock but I do not have enough travel on the dizy to advance the rotor by hand. I just want to get an idea of which direction the vacumm advance is facing and where is that oiler located at when you look down at the distributor. Just an easy answer. I will take another picture with the rotor cap taken oft and show you that the rotor is at 7 oclock. :)

Posted

Oh yes thanks for all the info so far. It ran befor I took out the rotor and it will run again as its only a matter of finding the out which way to turn the rubic cube in this opperation.:cool:

Posted

just one more question are your points position located on the top of the rotor when looking down at them? I wish my book had a better picture as this would really help. :rolleyes:

Posted

by chance are you mismatching parts from two different distributors? There are two distinct models and the caps and rotor will not interchange and work well..oft times if one has a super hot coil it can jump the gap but will run rough as a cob..no power...but if stock low voltage secondary coil..odds are you will not jump the gap..

with the power on, everything set for static timing, slowly rotate your dist housing (rotor stays stationary) till it just opens the points (will throw a spark at that time) just barely back it up...you should now be able to start the engine timing wise that is..

now, if this does indeed do the job..you can try this yet again with the cap on and verify a spark on #1 wire..as for your vacuum advance housing..here is a shot of my distributor position..

post-7-13585356765418_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)
DSC03525.jpgThe difference between your engine and my engine is that the trottle leakage is on the side. And so when I set the vacumm advance in your location it hits my trottle leakage. Hate to take out the oil pump but maybe that is the key. I do not have the room you have down there and could you see if there is a square peice of engine casting just above your distributor? If not I could just grind that peice out of there and then have more room to turn my distributor. Going to look at the oil pump now lititure and see what would be involved with moving it one notch. I will not move the enternals of the engine as it is set at top dead center. Jon Edited by JIPJOBXX

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