What Oil do you use?

[Guest skattruggles]

What oil do you like best and what weight do you use?? I searched and couldnt find anything. Thanks.

Scott

[Normspeed]

Here's some stuff on another recent thread:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2152

[randroid]

Scott,

Lots of variables there so a simple answer is dependant upon your driving conditions, etc. If your engine has at least 10,000 miles on it and is well broken in, it's hard to beat a synthetic for making your engine last as long as it can. There are those who will berate synthetics with the argument that it takes three quarts of oil to make one quart of synthetic, but those figures are skewed and if they aren't it only needs a glance at the recommended changing milages to look upon arguments against synthetics with a jaundiced eye.

If you drive on dirts roads you'll want to get rid of the dust the oil collects and since our engines came stock with partial flow oil cleaners you may want to drain the sump often enough to use regular oil.

What have you been using in your other cars? These things are industrial engines that are still in use many years after they stopped pushing MoPars and are to be respected more than feared, and they aren't fragile.

-Randy

[greg g]

I have been used multi viscosity detergent oil in my P15 for the last 5 years. When I first got the car back on the road, the original engine was tired and suffered from low compression and blow by, it got 20 w 50 and seemed happy. I currently have a freshly rebuilt 56 230 engine which I broke in on 10w 30, currently its diet is 15w 40 oil from Tractor Supply Company Traveller Brand. It is rated for use in diesel engines and has all the current API rating stuff. I believe it was 6.50 for a gallon container.

[Lou Earle]

Newly rebuilt after 1500 mile break in I use10 w 30- older engine 15w 40 or 20 w 50 .

As far as I know all car makes' then and now, say change oil at least 2 times a year or more.

So if I am using synthetic on an infequently driven car it is probably a money looser. On frequently used car it is a real money saver in cost and wear.

Lou

[bob westphal]

These engines were designed and built long before multi weight oils came on the scene. I use a straight weight oil and recommend my clients to do the samein all their cars manufactured prior to multi grades. In my area, where temps get below +32 for short whiles in the winter and very rarely near +10, I recommend 30W all year.

Here are the factory recommended weights:

Not lower than +32 degrees F...SAE 30 W

As low as +10 F......................SAE 20 W

As low as -10 F .................SAE 10W

Below -10 F .................SAE 5W

They recommend 10W for the first 1000 miles breakin on new/rebuilt engines, then whatever weight you use for the climate.

The multi grade oils now on the market should work well but be careful with the grades below 10-30. They are designed for the newest cars (last 10yrs.) which have different oil requirements than do our old pots.

[Guest rockabillybassman]

The whole problem now, with dire potential consequences for us all, is that muktigrade oils now contain too little zinc to satisfy the flat tappets our engines have. Even single grades have this problem, and as of recently, so do the diesel oils so many have been using recently. This problem is especially bad when using new tappets or a new cam, the tappets are not as good quality as they once were, and if the cam is case-hardened rather than made from hard stock, the lack of zinc (ZDDP) can flatten the lobes rapidly. Chevy smallblock owners are particularly affected because they use case-hardened cams. The only solution is to find an oil with acceptable zinc levels (I believe there are a few, eg; Valvoline) or to use an additive (GM OEM).

[DutchEdwin]

The only solution is to find an oil with acceptable zinc levels (I believe there are a few, eg; Valvoline) or to use an additive (GM OEM).

What are the acceptable levels of zinc in the oil?

I'm rebuilding my engine, new tappets, new cam. The old cam was round as can be. Would like to prevent that.

[Plymouthy Adams]

read and heed as you deem applicable....

http://www.automachperf.com/breakin.html