pulling the radiator on a P10

[Cpt.Fred]

hey dan,

i don't know if the pump has ever been replaced, don't think so.

but it works perfect so far, and i put grease in it every once in a while

to make it happy...

i have ordered a spare, though, today at andy b., who employs the most annoying and impolite ba****ds on the planet, by the way.

(sorry for my language, but i was angry all day long after calling them, and still am...maybe they don't like germans)

btt

we greased up the area while pulling the assembly out already, wouldn't have

stood a chance of getting it out otherwise.

but it is out now, and that's a good thing.

it's resting at the shop right now, filled with acetic acid.

i hope we can get it fixed...

best, fred

[Reg Evans]

I had a similar problem with my 35 Dodge when I dragged it home. It would overheat after only driving a few miles. First I replaced the water pump......no change. Second I removed the radiator and had a radiator shop boil it out.....no change. Third time was the charm. I removed the head and found that most of the coolant ports between the block and the head were clogged shut with rusty scale and the holes for the water distribution tube were also clogged shut. I cleared the clogs with a drill bit and removed the freeze plugs so I could get rid of the crud in the bottom of the cooling system and Yahoo !!!! Nessie runs cool now on the hottest days of summer even though I didn't replace the rusted out water distribution tube. The previous owner was not using any type of rust inhibitor or antifreeze and let it sit for years marinating in plain H2Oh.

[Cpt.Fred]

ouch!

reg, you just scared me... i sure hope the swamp hasn't gotten into my engine as it did into yours.

just saved the photo to my computer, just in case anyone is ever to ask me again why one should put rust inhibitor into the coolant or at least use destilated water...

[Reg Evans]

Cpt.,

Don't be scared. It's only a half of a day job and should probably be done to any old flattie that has been sitting for a while. You'll sleep better knowing for sure that your coolant is circulating properly.

PS.

Another time I drug home an old MoPar truck that was running like crap and overheating so the seller gave me a great deal. It turned out to be a simple case of the timing being way out of whack.

[Cpt.Fred]

hey reg,

good that you mention the timing!

only thing i changed on the car was putting a new vac advance on it

before the trip...

friend of mine suggested (like i wrote earlier) it could be the timing.

was yours too advanced?

i tried to adjust the timing on mine, one time with the vac line disconnected, and one time connected, but with a vaccum gauge ont he manifold.

i'm still not sure if i did it correctly (which i am pretty much ashamed of...)

thanks for any additional info on this!

i try to sneak around pulling the plugs on my engine, at least till the fall when seaseon ends and i plan to pull the complete nose anyway, if i can't avoid it.

Edited August 9, 2010 by Cpt.Fred

[Cpt.Fred]

we fixed the radiator yesterday,

only leak we found was right under the upper inlet.

we closed it and did a final pressure test, now everything is fine.

we flushed the radiator repeatedly with acid and water, i can't think

of anything else to do, so i am going to put it back in now...

the problem must be elsewhere, the leak was too small.

how do i get the plugs out of the block?

can i just lever them out with a large screwdriver and a hammer?

[Don Coatney]

how do i get the plugs out of the block?

Use a self tapping sheet metal screw.

[Cpt.Fred]

good idea, thanks!

[Cpt.Fred]

update:

i just came back from a test ride and everything seems to be good again.

after putting acid in the engine and radiator and flushing everything several

times, putting a thermostat back in and a complete engine timing, it seems to

work now.

i'll have a 200mile trip on the weekend, by then i will know if everything's

really alright...

funny thing is, i cannot turn the dizzy far enough to reach retarded timing.

i have to turn it counterclockwise till it stops, then my timing light reads TDC.

once i rev it or put the vac advance back on it advances like it should,

so i left it that way for now.

drives nice, anyway.

[greg g]

There is another adjustment on the bottom ot the distributer body. Perhaps if you move that it would give you a better range of adjustment with the normal hold down.

[Cpt.Fred]

do you mean that clamb bolt on the side of the shaft,

right beneath the housing?

what would i have to do to it?

by the way: the points i got from andy b. didn't fit. no matter how you put them in and no matter what position the eccentric adjustment tappet is,

the points cannot close... i had to work with the old ones, cleaned them and

smoothed the surfaces.

[greg g]

Fred, from Don Coatney's photobucket link,a shot of the other bolt on the dist. You can loosen it and then perhaps gain some more adjustment in relation to your timing marks.

Points and condensers need to be ordered specific tot he distributor part number from the tag on the side. Not suprised Andy got it wrong.

[Cpt.Fred]

i ordered the parts with the correct number... anyway, i can't change it, but i was upset once again. quality was poor, too. i'll check napa or roberts or even kanter for the next time.

i have to take a closer look to my distributor, mine looks a little different, i think.

but the principle is the same, so i guess i know what to do, thanks!

the weekend trip will tell me more...