alternative disc. conv. method not using brackets

[Norm's Coupe]

One other important thing about Ed's brake system.

Ed came up with his disc brake conversion back in the 90's. At the time, about the only place to buy disc brake conversion kits was from places like MP Brakes and a couple of other places to fit early Mopar. Those older systems were not a bolt on application and they ran anywhere between $800 to $1200 by the time you finished having your spindles machined, etc. So......you can now see Ed did save a lot of money on his system, "at that time", even if you count his labor time involved. However, I really don't think there is that much of a savings today doing it with junk yard parts.

Today, we have several places to buy the kits, including from Olddaddy on this forum, starting at a little over $200. These kits are all bolt on too. I have never ask Ed the question. However, if one of these less expensive kits had been available at the time he may have gone that route too, especially if you had to pay to get the machine work done.

[randroid]

Gents,

I'm also a published Novelist and own a small publishing company. In a word, it would be illegal to copy something from that book without written permission, but there's also a very simple way to get around the law by including the ISBN, name of the publisher, and an earnest plea for everyone who sees your example of this fine book to purchase it. That won't nullify any illegality but it would make it impossible for you to be prosecuted if you're not making any money from it.

One other point to check would be the date of publication and check to see if the copyrights have been renewed (www.loc.gov) because chances are pretty good they haven't, which puts the book into the public domain.

I'd copy that page in a NY second and never lose a minute's sleep.

-Randy

[Norm's Coupe]

Gents,

I'm also a published Novelist and own a small publishing company. In a word, it would be illegal to copy something from that book without written permission, but there's also a very simple way to get around the law by including the ISBN, name of the publisher, and an earnest plea for everyone who sees your example of this fine book to purchase it. That won't nullify any illegality but it would make it impossible for you to be prosecuted if you're not making any money from it.

One other point to check would be the date of publication and check to see if the copyrights have been renewed (www.loc.gov) because chances are pretty good they haven't, which puts the book into the public domain.

I'd copy that page in a NY second and never lose a minute's sleep.

-Randy

Randy,

Actually, Ed is the person who wrote that article in the book. Don't think he got paid for it either. (not really sure about that). Since he's the one who wrote it and supplied the pictures, he has first rights to the article. The article mentioned on the web site is on Ed's own web site. Plus, that book is now out of publication. The one we found on Amazon is being sold by a private party through Amazon. That's why the price is so high too. At any rate, since Ed provided everything you see, I doubt that anyone could say anything about it being on his own website. They copied him in the book with his permission, not him coping them.

[Guest 50Plymouth]

... The kits that are available today more than pay for themselves in my opinion. Spend the two hundred bucks for the kit and be done with it. What is your time worth?

Scarebird Mechanical offers kit for $145 which is better than $200+ so I may move that direction.

With the kits do the rotors require any machining? Do you use stock hubs?

As far as 'time worth' I am in an awkward position now as a rural pastor where time is actually more available than money.. However, a few years ago I would've automatically jumped to the kit as I assume I would in the future.

I appreciate the kick in the wallet so to speak of moving in that direction. You guys are right. I probably will go for the cheapest kit I can find. I'm the kind of person that makes a spreadsheet for comparison first if I don't my wife will

greybeard: thanks for noting the site actually is the whole article. Hey, I already saved $96-$130

Ryan

[Norm's Coupe]

Scarebird Mechanical offers kit for $145 which is better than $200+ so I may move that direction.

With the kits do the rotors require any machining? Do you use stock hubs?

As far as 'time worth' I am in an awkward position now as a rural pastor where time is actually more available than money.. However, a few years ago I would've automatically jumped to the kit as I assume I would in the future.

I appreciate the kick in the wallet so to speak of moving in that direction. You guys are right. I probably will go for the cheapest kit I can find. I'm the kind of person that makes a spreadsheet for comparison first if I don't my wife will

greybeard: thanks for noting the site actually is the whole article. Hey, I already saved $96-$130

Ryan

Ryan

The answers to your questions is, yes and no. All depends on whose kit you use. Never heard of the one you mentioned. The best thing to do is contact the people selling the kit and get all the information direct from the horses mouth. For example, my kit requires that I use the hubs made by ECI, the GM rotors drilled for Mopar bolt pattern. Don used Ply Do's kit and he bought the rotors with the hub in them for his kit. So, as you can see, each kit may be as simple to work with but may be done a little different.

[Guest mudflap22]

50plymouth asked if anybody had done this--I have and gave him my best answer. My time is my own and I had very little money invested in maching. You guys seem to have a great deal more money than I have whiich really isn't the issue. I like doing it myself. Nothing wrong with a kit. I know I can always get parts for my combination --can you get a new rotor or something else by NOT going to the manufactuer of your kit? My car is being built to be a driver and will not see a great deal of garage time. If something breaks, I know I can fix it anywhere in the United States instead of waiting for somebody to send me parts.

[Norm's Coupe]

Mudflap,

The only real part you need that has to be ordered is the brackets. All the other stuff is over the counter at any parts store. The reason you have to buy the hub new hub with the ECI kit is because it's designed to use the 79 - 80 Camero/Firebird rotors that have no hub. All the other kits we mentioned use either standard GM or Mopar rotors.

Someday many years down the road I may need new rotors. However, if I want I can just buy the new standard rotors off the shelf and use them. I would just need to change over to GM wheels at that time by changing the studs in the hub. My hub is drilled to fit both, GM or Mopar. However, I can also have that new rotor drilled to fit the Mopar bolt pattern I have on the hubs now. So, all of us can buy the replacement parts anywhere. The GM rotors and calipers are also still used today. The calipers with my kit are the same ones that fit my Lumina Van.

Plus this neat hub made it all worth the money to me. You won't find something like this in a junk yard. Too bad it's hidden behind hubcaps and wheels though.

As a point of interest. Don Coatney bought his kit from Ply Do (basic bracket set up). He then purchased rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, etc. locally at a regular parts store. I in turn ordered the whole kit complete with everything included to complete the job except brake fluid. Don and I later compared cost as to which was cheaper buying locally or ordering my kit. Keep in mind I also had to pay about $60 in freight charges due to the weight. After we finished comparing notes, my cost was just slightly over Don's, but still not the total cost of the freight charges. So......either way it's about the same price when you add up all the cost involved.

[JohnS48plm]

Which kit will allow you to use stock P-15 wheels? I don't think you can with the ECI or the one in Tex Smiths book.

[Norm's Coupe]

John, you are correct you cannot use stock 15" wheels with the ECI kit. Not sure but the same may be true with the other kits, unless they are using smaller calipers.

[PatS....]

50plymouth asked if anybody had done this--I have and gave him my best answer. My time is my own and I had very little money invested in maching. You guys seem to have a great deal more money than I have whiich really isn't the issue. I like doing it myself. Nothing wrong with a kit. I know I can always get parts for my combination --can you get a new rotor or something else by NOT going to the manufactuer of your kit? My car is being built to be a driver and will not see a great deal of garage time. If something breaks, I know I can fix it anywhere in the United States instead of waiting for somebody to send me parts.

Nothing wrong with doing it yourself, but the PlyDo kit and Charlies kit also use off the shelf Volare rotors and GM midsize calipers and off the shelf wheel bearings.

The only specialized parts are the bracket and the bearing spacer neither of which would ever need servicing.

I have Charlies kit and it will be going on the car very soon. A very simple straightforward kit well worth the low price.

[Don Coatney]

I think we have beat this topic enough. Everyone needs to do what they feel is best for them. What was best for me was the Plydo kit and everything else new. I did find junk yard rotors but I did not use them as I wanted everything new. Pictured is everything I used. I can now go into any auto parts store and buy replacement parts so I will not be stuck on the road waiting on parts.

[Jim Yergin]

John,

I have the AAJ Brakes kit and I am using stock wheels.

Jim Yergin

[JohnS48plm]

Jim

Did you have to drill and tap your spindle like the Py- do kit or was the caliper bracket just a bolt on? What rotors and calipers does the AAJ kit use? Are you using your original master cylinder?

John

[Jim Yergin]

John,

I did have to drill and tap the spindle uprights. I used P15 uprights with the three mounting holes instead of the four hole ones on my '41 P12. At the time I don't think AAJ had the four hole set up but may have it now. Actually this way I can keep my original parts in case someone later wants to restore it to original.

If I remember correctly the calipers are GM and the rotors are Mopar. I bought all the parts, other than the master cylinder, from AAJ Brakes. I installed a Mopar dual reservoir master cylinder. The kit did not require it but I decided to do it while I was working on the brake system.

Jim

[JohnS48plm]

Jim Thanks for the info. I'm still rebuilding the motor so disc brakes will be later this year.

John

[Norm's Coupe]

John,

I think ECI is the only kit where you don't have to drill the spindle out. I checked just about all of them (didn't know about AAJ then), and they all said you had to drill out the spindle. Plus you had to use the spacer on the axle. ECI is the only one that doesn't require a spacer or drilling the spindle that I could find. That was the primary reason I went with the ECI system.

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Well, this is ironic after my starting this thread but I am putting in an order for the Scarebird kit.

I think using the Blazer plate setup would work just great (and be somewhat cheaper yet ... which I admittedly obsessed over ) but I just would feel more comfortable with more detailed directions and no concerns of centering the plate and all (I'm not a machinist.. a friend would have done any such work)

After the most recent posts you may find it interesting no machining is necessary to the spindle or hub. No drilling of anything necessary is what I was told upon asking (well, you do have to cut down the spindle bolts shorter I guess). Apparently it uses some stock rotors with hub ready to go. I haven't gotten the parts list for it yet.

This is going to be more money than the Blazer 'bracket less' method (yet cheaper than ECI or olddaddy's kit) and more than the stock drums of course but I hope I will be satisfied. Once I get the stuff I plan on doing a thread with lots of pictures outlining the entire installation procedure and co$t$) for future people looking.

Mark, the gentlemen that runs Scarebird seems very nice. Now I'll begin researching MC solutions or whether to stick stock as some have done.

Ryan

[greg g]

just looked at the scarebird site. looks like good stuff but I did not see a specific listing for late 40's to mid 50's Mopars. what kit are you ordering??

[Guest 50Plymouth]

just looked at the scarebird site. looks like good stuff but I did not see a specific listing for late 40's to mid 50's Mopars. what kit are you ordering??

My kit is not listed on the website I just asked for '50 Ply application, back in Jan I heard he was still testing it. Those pages are incomplete if you notice, and he doesn't have any pages at all yet for some applications that he does do now. If your willing to wait a few weeks he will coat the raw steel with one of those zinc-something.

besides http://www.scarebird.com/ there is an eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Scarebird-Classic-Disc-Brakes