aero3113 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) I did a little bit of looking into my oil pressure issue the other day. I decided to take a look at my oil filter. I opened it up and noticed a bunch of very small metallic flakes in it. I took a magnet and they were drawn right to it. Do you think my oil pump may be breaking down? Bearing material is not ferrous is it? What do you guys think it could be from? I replaced my oil pump not too long ago and took its first long drive(I have been on many short drives with no issues). It was during that drive I had the oil pressure issue. Edited July 14, 2010 by aero3113 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 14, 2010 Report Posted July 14, 2010 you could have a main bearing going, while the facing is non magnettic, the shell back is...by all accounts, I hope I am not right..this could explain the low oil pressure also as there is no restriction to flow at the bad bearing..bad part is as one bearing goes, the ability to feed the rod also is gone Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 14, 2010 Report Posted July 14, 2010 Since you just changed your oil pump before this happened, I would look under the cover for grooves worn in it. That would account for the low pressure and the shavings. Also, it's easier than dropping the pan. Quote
aero3113 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Posted July 15, 2010 you could have a main bearing going, while the facing is non magnettic, the shell back is...by all accounts, I hope I am not right..this could explain the low oil pressure also as there is no restriction to flow at the bad bearing..bad part is as one bearing goes, the ability to feed the rod also is gone I did stretch my relief valve spring a little bit. Wouldn't that be a temporary fix and cause the oil pressure to rise (it didn't do much). This is what is making me think it is the oil pump. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 that is against advisement in the book but..others have done this also..it is a false sense of security against known worn parts...still, what about the metallic shavings in the oil filter housing..is there any m ain bearing flutter in start up? do you know just how many miles are on the engine.. Quote
aero3113 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Posted July 15, 2010 that is against advisement in the book but..others have done this also..it is a false sense of security against known worn parts...still, what about the metallic shavings in the oil filter housing..is there any m ain bearing flutter in start up? do you know just how many miles are on the engine.. Yes I know it is not recommended to stretch the spring, but the oil pressure should have rose when I did it. No, there is no flutter on start up,it sounds normal and idles normal. Do not know how many actual miles are on the car. I installed new pistons,rings and crank bearings when I first bought the car. When I get time I will pull the cover off of the oil pump and inspect. Any other ideas? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 if it has been a bit since an oil change..you could drain the oil and look for further signs of metal contamination..the pump would have ingested a bit of this metal if from another source..if the source is babbit from the bearing shell it will press fit to the pump mechanism but could easily be flicked of with your penknife..personally I think a look at the bearings is in order.. Quote
aero3113 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Posted July 15, 2010 Can I replace the main bearings by only removing the oil pan? or does the motor have to come out? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 rods and mains can be replaced from below...secret to this success is the timely change prior to a failure..failure usually results in scored crank journals...why I asked about the flutter..odds are you do this when you first detect flutter you can extend the mean time between rebuilds that would include the upper cylinders.. Quote
aero3113 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Posted July 15, 2010 rods and mains can be replaced from below...secret to this success is the timely change prior to a failure..failure usually results in scored crank journals...why I asked about the flutter..odds are you do this when you first detect flutter you can extend the mean time between rebuilds that would include the upper cylinders.. Tim, If I had a bad main bearing/s would I definately hear some flutter on start up? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 usually if it is even wear across the bearings yes flutter is often an early sign..however..if for some reason you have had one bearing go bad..not necessary so... Quote
aero3113 Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 In neutral I can hold down the gas slightly and the oil pressure will be steady @ 40psi. Does this help with any suggestions? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 oil pressure seems to be good..rule of thumb is 10 per thousand RPM and book says anything at idle...but the metal is the part that I would be investigating..and you never explained the reason to put on a new oil pump... Quote
aero3113 Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 oil pressure seems to be good..rule of thumb is 10 per thousand RPM and book says anything at idle...but the metal is the part that I would be investigating..and you never explained the reason to put on a new oil pump... I noticed my oil pressure was a little low when the engine warmed up,so I decided to install a new pump to be safe(I took the cover off of my old one and it looked worn). Why would the pressure drop to near 0 when driving but when I let off the gas to shift gears it will jump to 40Psi then go back down when I step on the gas? like I said in neutral it will stay at 40psi if I have my foot on the gas,but in drive on the road it will be near 0 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 as you slowly add a few more pointers to the problem we may be able to get nearer the problem..to have a lower pressure at a higher speed would indicate a restricted oil pickup in the pan...operating at high speed with this condition would very well run bearing dry of oil..that would explain the metal shavings...I figure at this point if you do not drop the pan for a detailed inspection you will not have mmuch to work with in the near future.. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Keith, have you dropped the pan yet to have a look inside? Quote
aero3113 Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Keith, have you dropped the pan yet to have a look inside? Not yet, when I get some time it looks like I will be. Quote
jd52cranbrook Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I hope your not just low on oil? Quote
aero3113 Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Posted July 17, 2010 I hope your not just low on oil? I recently did an oil change. Quote
jd52cranbrook Posted July 17, 2010 Report Posted July 17, 2010 (edited) It sure sounds like a bad or blocked pick up as Tim said. To go to zero, I dont think its in the bearings, but those could be next. Drop the pan. And re check the pressure relief valve install. Edited July 17, 2010 by jd52cranbrook Quote
aero3113 Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Posted July 17, 2010 I pulled the pan today and look what I found. I pulled the two middle main bearings and the forward bearing spun. The crank is slightly scored. I am assuming the front and rear are the same. I plan on cleaning up the crank the best I can and replacing the bearings. I do not have the money right now for a complete rebuild so it will go back together. At least I found where the metal is coming from . Quote
martybose Posted July 17, 2010 Report Posted July 17, 2010 I pulled the pan today and look what I found. I pulled the two middle main bearings and the forward bearing spun. The crank is slightly scored. I am assuming the front and rear are the same. I plan on cleaning up the crank the best I can and replacing the bearings. I do not have the money right now for a complete rebuild so it will go back together. At least I found where the metal is coming from . Sorry to hear about your discovery, but I'm not so sure about your plan. None of those bearings look good at all, and just replacing them might just destroy another set and damage the crankshaft more. I'd also be inclined to pull apart one or more rod bearings, because with that much damage you'll usually lose the rod bearings as well. Marty Quote
jd52cranbrook Posted July 17, 2010 Report Posted July 17, 2010 Bummer for sure. But I still don't think bearing spun, or wear causes oil pressure to go to zero. And remember, all that metal, has gotten everywhere in your oil passages, and bearings, and timing chain, and cam, and, and, and, and. You may want to rethink slapping it back together. My uneducated guess is you have more than one issue going on now. Much good luck, bummer to have it happen during summer time. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted July 17, 2010 Report Posted July 17, 2010 Mine weren't scored quite that badly but ALL of them are scored. Rod, main, camshaft bearings, every one of them. You probably have the same situation, if I had to guess. I also had plenty of metal shavings. I found them in the oil pan and in the pickup screen. I assume they're in the oil pump and every other place the oil goes. Quote
aero3113 Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Posted July 17, 2010 I didn't pull any rod bearings yet but I had time to pull the front and rear and inspect, they look fine. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.