Tips for improving the ride/handling

[Dan Babb]

For the short time I had my truck on the road, I noticed that the ride is extremely rough. You really feel every bump.

When you hit a bump going around a corner, it really feels like the rear lifts off the ground a bit...like the tires aren't staying on the ground.

I'd like to know how your truck (with the completely stock setup) feels when you're on the road.

While I'm tearing down my truck, I'd like to address the suspension too.

I have put new radial tires on the truck.

I haven't changed the shocks, so I'll check those out.

Is it worth taking the spring mounts off the truck to clean them up? Do they wear out? Are there replaceable bushing I should worry about? Or should I just lube everything up?

The springs have that nice rust color to them. Should I spray some penetrating oil to loosen them up a bit or does that not really matter?

[1949dakota]

Thats how my truck rides too!! I could swear that sometimes my back wheels lose contact with the road:cool:

[JBNeal]

When I got my '48 road-worthy, it was all over the road as the bias ply tires reacted to every lump & dip in the road; I quickly opted to limit my speed to under 45mph to keep from wandering into the ditch or into oncoming traffic. I did find that when I had about 1000# in the bed that the ride smoothed out considerably. After that load was removed, the rear seemed a li'l more under control, probably because the load had worked the springs loose after they had sat dormant for 20+ yrs. I spray those rusty leafs every spring and put a load on to work the springs loose.

By comparison, my '02 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 has a solid front axle, and WOW is that truck a handful compared to a 1/2 ton longbed. It's much smoother than the '48, but it's still a chore to keep it in a straight line compared to a lighter modern truck.  [steering and suspension issues were repaired, yielding a truck that rode like a dream]

Radial tires are helpful in smoothing out the ride. I've also heard of guys removing a leaf or two from their rear springs to smooth out the rear hop. New shocks would help too, so would setting the steering box & front end alignment in keeping the wheels to track straight.

The spring bushings have a grease zerk on them for a reason, and if they are frozen or worn, then it's time for new ones. I reckon if each suspension component is addressed at the same time, then you'd recognize a change in handling. But as my dad told me, it's still a 50+ yr old pickup, so don't expect it to float like a Newport on the way to town.

Edited February 16, 2019 by JBNeal
added repair information

[1952gary]

In restoring my B3B, I found similar problems in the ride. I put new shocks on prior to the restore and improved the ride somewhat. During the restore I removed the entire running gear and sandblasted the entire truck frame. I found spring hangers frozen and springs leafs showing wear imprints on the underside of its upper spring. All springs were separated, sandblasted, and painted. I beveled the upper edge of each leaf below the main to allow for a total range of motion and I removed one leaf from all springs front and rear. All spring hangers were sandblasted, repaired or replaced. The truck is not yet on the road however when I step up on the frame with my weight it moves freely which is a big improvement prior to restore. It is my opinion the springs were the culprit due to their 50 year wear pattern.

[1949dakota]

I'd agree, when I haul a load it does smooth out considerably, and about 95% of the rattles and squeaks disappear! I should just keep it loaded:)

[John-T-53]

If you've already put radials on the truck, replace the shocks next. They would be a big factor in affecting your ride quality (like on any car or truck), and they're responsible for keeping your tires on the ground. I've seen many cars going down the freeway with bad shocks, and on a bumpy section of pavement, I've watched tires literally bounce up and down, leaving the pavement momentarily each time. No contact = no control.

As said earlier too, lubricate all the zerk fittings around the chassis and loosen up the springs with some penetrating oil.

My 1/2 ton has all original suspention that's well broken in and has never been disassembled, but with 8 year-old radials and new shocks and it rides almost as good as a '74 Newport.

Edited July 7, 2010 by John-T-53

[grey beard]

I found the same problems you'all mentioned on this thread with my own Pilothouse, especially on longer interstate trips at higher speeds. Sort' bets you to death, after while. I have new taller radials - 31 inch idameter for slower crankshaft speed. Four new gas shocks helped immnensely, but the ride was still very choppy due to the stiff springs and the short wheelbase.

I finally pulled the rear springs apart. They were so stiff that my considerable weight on the rear bumper could not flex the suspension one bit. I removed three leavces from the original stack of eight, startibg at the bottom, and removing every other leaf. Previously, it sat quite high in the back, unloaded. Now it sits just a small amount higher in back than front, measuring at the lower running board edges, and I can flex the rear suspension just like a car - this truck will never be asked to carry heavy loads again. Best part of this story is that it now rides like a lady. My wife doesn't mind long trips in it now, and does not complain at all.

Common sense would dictate that all the spring pivot points must be free to flex. You must know that each spring has three grease zerks - one on the front and two on the back at the shackles. If any of these points does not take grease readily, find out why and fix it before you ever expect it to ride nicely. New zerks are a good beginning, and a blue-nose heat wrench is a good second plan. Truck spring shackles do not have rubber bushings as do MoPar automobiles, so you can go at 'em with heat without mewlting them down or setting 'em on fire - except for shock rubbers, of coursew. Get them all limbered up nicely. You'll be glad you did. The front zerk on pickups has an access hole in the bed apron just for that vcery purpose.

It is sorta' critical to get the steering box centered on these trucks if you want them to go down the road in a straight line nicely and have no bump steer on jounce and rebound, over bumps, etc. Preoblem is that there is no adjustment between the steering box and the right side spiindle to get the box perfectly centered.

I addressed ths problem by cold-bending my drag link - the rod between the steering nox pitmen arm and the right side spindle. These rods normally have a considerable bend in them from the factory, but mine needed to be lengthened to get the box centered. I accomplished this by jacking on the drag link and putting weight on the truck in small increments until I had the box centered. There is a high spot in the gtears that you can feel if you adjust the mesh load screw on top of the box. Now the truck handles nicely with one hand on the wheel at sixty, even on rough roads.

I'm happy. Now if I can just get those brakes adjusted to stop a little nicer . . . . . .

Good Luck

[PatS....]

Maybe look in to the hot rod trick of teflon between the leaves for a better ride as well.

[Frank Elder]

If you are going to use it as a truck it will bounce&jounce....if it is just going to be pretty, remove some leaves as greybeard says, your kidneys will thank you:)