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Help! Need photos of upholstered door panels


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Posted

Can anyone on here, who has a P15 Club Coupe that is restored to original condition, post some pics of how their door and back seat panels look? Not asking to take them out, but get some detailed shots showing how the chrome trim is laid across the top and on the bottom where it separates the vinyl strip from the fabric. I need to know if the chrome strip on the back panels passes above or underneath the window crank and escutcheon. Since mine were redone and no back chrome strip was replaced, it's hard to tell. Also, what is good material for making new panels. Right now I have 1/8" warped pressboard. What was originally used? What I have now as panels are not the original ones.

Posted

Although it's nowhere near stock...the trim is in the right place on the front door. Would be similar in coupe.

2nd pic.....not a real great shot, but you can see the rear trim follows at the

same height as the front door trim.

post-10-13585345160277_thumb.jpg

post-10-13585345160455_thumb.jpg

Posted

I posted this before on the package tray thread or kick panels,,,my mind is long gone!! IF you think you have already seen this SOB. I think the more perfect material than the pressed board backing is whats called 'Kemlite" or aka Dairy barn liner. It is pretty thin,easily flexed,but stable to breaking etc. and impervious to water,unlike the pressed board. It is smooth on one side and pebble grained on other. Its the same stuff you see alot in public restrooms cause it doesnt graffitti as well,more durable. Bonding anything to it would be relatively easy and durable and it would LAST forever, especially covered. Easy to cut and shape, jigsaw,circle saw, rough burr in a drill to shape or drill hole. It would NOT be 'stock' but better than original, better material. I use it everywhere. Cows cant wreck it in the bottom of a feed bunk,,,now thats a test of durability. Mine eat off of it every day!!

What glue or bonding agent do they use for attaching fabric or vinyl,whatever covering over the pressed board panels???

Just my opinion,,,your mileage MAY vary!!!-d-

Posted

Haven't hung around an auto upholstry shop in a while, but seems as if they used a paint sprayer looking unit containing glue, and sprayed it onto things they were stickiing. Sprayed both halves, let them get tacky, then slam- dunked them together. There are spray can trim cements available....at either auto stores or hobby stores. I think auto shops use a black colored, waterproof fibreboard of some type for door panels. They have some flexibility. My current masonite door panels do not give, therefore I could not put the springs behind my door handles and window cranks.

Posted

Sorry guys...I really meant that I need to see the back panel, since my door one still has the holes to trace where the moulding goes. I just need to see where and how close it passes above or under the window crank escutcheon. The pics of the four door won't help me with the back part, but the ones showing the work on the panels do, as far as how it's done. The one showing the coupe was fine, but the seat covered up the crucial part I needed to see. Even if it's not original, but the stainless moulding is still where it was originally, that would be fine.

Posted

jerrye937 sells replacement panels (door) on ebay from time to time at a reasonable price if you needed new ones. I don't know if he sells them with the trim or not, mine didn't come with the chrome pieces, but still very pleased with his product. He will also sell matching material for the armrests and such. Bought mine,all 4 plus 3 pieces of material 2x3 ft for $95.80 and 28 something for shipping in the total price of the 95.80..

May God Bless Us All... John Ennis

Posted
Sorry guys...I really meant that I need to see the back panel' date=' since my door one still has the holes to trace where the moulding goes. I just need to see where and how close it passes above or under the window crank escutcheon. The pics of the four door won't help me with the back part, but the ones showing the work on the panels do, as far as how it's done. The one showing the coupe was fine, but the seat covered up the crucial part I needed to see. Even if it's not original, but the stainless moulding is still where it was originally, that would be fine.[/quote']

Darin,

Here you go. This is one of my coupe before I replaced the door panels.

48Plymouth20.jpg

Posted

Thanks, Norm, but my front panels are fine, as far as seeing what went where. It's the back panels that I'm trying to get a pic of. You didn't take pics of those (like this one you posted) before you redid them, did you?

Anyway, in the meantime, I tried reconstructing how it may have been set up, going by my old panels and using the stainless strips and arm rests.

myPlymouthPics00088.jpgThis shows the passenger side door panel. I put the stainless strip right where it used to go when the panel was on the door and added the armrest to fit right over the holes where it used to go. The holes for the window and door cranks are visible.

myPlymouthPics00086.jpgThen, I butted up the back panel, that has no holes for the trim, against the door panel and lined up the trim according to the door trim. The only thing is that even though both panels are lined up on the bottom, the back panel seems to be taller than the door panel. If I line them up even from the top, that puts the strip passing right through the window crank, so that can't be right. I'll have to say the match up in the pics would be right, but need to be sure, in case I'm not.

Posted

Darin,

I do have a picture of the rear quarter panel before I took it apart. However, I just checked my computer and it's not in the computer files. It is a 35 mm shot. I'll dig it out and try scanning it tomorrow. (scanner has been acting up). Then I'll post it. As for the stainless strip that goes along the bottom, it is supposed to match up with the stainless trip on the door panel. Then the leatherette material is below the stainless just like the door. Also here is a picture of the quarter panel from my restoration page. It's the new panel with the holes in it.

The hole is for the window crank. The three holes close together are for the arm rest and the square hole is for the ashtray. I did not mark the stainless location because I wasn't putting those back on. The stainless strip that goes under the window crank is also supposed to line up with the door stainless.

One reason your's isn't lining up is you did not cut out the little rounded spots on the bottom of your quarter panel. The floor is ridged there so you need to cut those rounded areas so the panel sits solid on the floor.

Like I said, I'll dig out the other picture too.

rearsidepanel.jpg

Posted
jerrye937 sells replacement panels (door) on ebay from time to time at a reasonable price if you needed new ones. I don't know if he sells them with the trim or not, mine didn't come with the chrome pieces, but still very pleased with his product. He will also sell matching material for the armrests and such. Bought mine,all 4 plus 3 pieces of material 2x3 ft for $95.80 and 28 something for shipping in the total price of the 95.80..

May God Bless Us All... John Ennis

John....the replacement panels you bought...do they have the all the holes in them for the trim, armrests and fasteners ready to go? I know I can try to make my own, but the ones I have now were done so half-ass that I'd hate to try to follow that pattern. I think the $100 would be worth not having the headache of trying to figure out where to put the holes correctly. I would just need the panels because I have the fabric already.

Posted
Darin' date='

I do have a picture of the rear quarter panel before I took it apart. However, I just checked my computer and it's not in the computer files. It is a 35 mm shot. I'll dig it out and try scanning it tomorrow. (scanner has been acting up). Then I'll post it. As for the stainless strip that goes along the bottom, it is supposed to match up with the stainless trip on the door panel. Then the leatherette material is below the stainless just like the door. Also here is a picture of the quarter panel from my restoration page. It's the new panel with the holes in it.

The hole is for the window crank. The three holes close together are for the arm rest and the square hole is for the ashtray. I did not mark the stainless location because I wasn't putting those back on. The stainless strip that goes under the window crank is also supposed to line up with the door stainless.

One reason your's isn't lining up is you did not cut out the little rounded spots on the bottom of your quarter panel. The floor is ridged there so you need to cut those rounded areas so the panel sits solid on the floor.

Like I said, I'll dig out the other picture too.

[/quote']

If you can find that pic, Norm, that would be great. That's really what I need to see. It looks like the strip passed under, but just need to be sure. My panels I have now are so badly made and warped that it wouldn't be worth trying to use them to make new panels from.

BTW, you panel looks a little different from mine. Did you make that from the original pattern or did you buy one new? I'm aware about the strip for the leatherette at the bottom. I've been having to pry open the pinched parts of the strips so that I can take out the old fabric and put in the new stuff...very tedious and time consuming. I'm just getting them ready so the upholsterer doesn't have to try to figure them out, but want to make sure that this part is ready to go because he wasn't very familiar with it. I'll leave enough material for him to work with. Would be great to know how they got those three creased lines in the front door panel where the strip bends down.

Posted

Darin,

By the three creased lines, I assume you mean on the front door by the window crank. There was real thin padding back there to form that. So your guy could reproduce that if you want. David Maxwell has that under there.

Here is the original rear panel before I took it apart. I took one of these apart and used the original board as a pattern to make my new one, so the shape of my new one is exact. It's a large picture so will take a little longer to show up here.

P15rearseatpanel.jpg

Posted

Heaven....

The panels I purchased have the holes for the door and window handles, arm rest on the front ones,also have the holes for the original clips that hold it on to the door. But I didn't see any marks or anything for the chrome trim pieces you are asking about. Sorry I couldn't be more help. If you get in touch with the man he maybe able to help you out on that. I have 4 old door panels that have the trim on them, but in terrible shape. I don't know if I could get measurements for you or not. Don't know how to do the pic...thing on this forum. But if I had you email (home) I can do it that way. email me if you want me to try for you.

God Bless Us All... John Ennis 47Plevy

Posted
jerrye937 sells replacement panels (door) on ebay from time to time at a reasonable price if you needed new ones. I don't know if he sells them with the trim or not, mine didn't come with the chrome pieces, but still very pleased with his product. He will also sell matching material for the armrests and such. Bought mine,all 4 plus 3 pieces of material 2x3 ft for $95.80 and 28 something for shipping in the total price of the 95.80..

May God Bless Us All... John Ennis

John...is jerrye937 still a member? I couldn't find him in the member's section on here.

Posted
Darin' date='

By the three creased lines, I assume you mean on the front door by the window crank. There was real thin padding back there to form that. So your guy could reproduce that if you want. David Maxwell has that under there.

Here is the original rear panel before I took it apart. I took one of these apart and used the original board as a pattern to make my new one, so the shape of my new one is exact. It's a large picture so will take a little longer to show up here.

[img']http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/P15rearseatpanel.jpg[/img]

There we go, Norm! That solves the mystery for me. Thanks so much for posting that. So the trim did pass above instead of below, which means where the trim is on my door isn't where it was originally. Whoever redid the doors on my car replaced the panels, but failed to place the trim where it originally was and never replaced it on the back panels. BTW...what was the material they used for the original panels? It looks like it was black. Do you still have that piece?

Posted

Sorry Darin, this stuff was so ratty that I tossed it right after doing my panels. Not sure, but I may have the pattern though. Will look tomorrow. The back panels were the black board type material. If you look at the bottom rear corner of the picture you'll see part of the panel peeking out from the ratty covering.

Posted
John...is jerrye937 still a member? I couldn't find him in the member's section on here.

Heaven...

jerrye937 is his ebay name. I believe his email is TIGGER88 at peoplepc dot com. Tell him Fruffy sent you...

Take care and God Bless, hope this helps..

John Ennis 47 Plevy

Posted

Darin,

Just checked and the pattern I made does not have the holes in it, or stainless locations. I used the old board for that. The patterns I have are just the patterns for cutting the cover material, then you cut the holes, etc. based on the on the board after mounting the material.

There is an easy way to do that without the pattern though. Just mount your backing boards in the car, then measure from the top of the board down.

Posted

I suppose one more thing a person could do.....is measure from top edge of the door panel to where top edge of the stainless trim goes. Should give the correct alignment/spacing.

I think you have to be pretty careful of those little tabs or spikes on the back side of the door trim pieces.....they go thru the hole and are bent over to secure the item. Not sure what you could do if some are broken....any good ideas?

Posted
I suppose one more thing a person could do.....is measure from top edge of the door panel to where top edge of the stainless trim goes. Should give the correct alignment/spacing.

I think you have to be pretty careful of those little tabs or spikes on the back side of the door trim pieces.....they go thru the hole and are bent over to secure the item. Not sure what you could do if some are broken....any good ideas?

Bob,

That's a good point about the tabs on the stainless trim. They are stainless so won't break off that easily. However, for people using fiberboard or plywood to make the panels, they are of course harder and thicker than the blackboard.

When I made my door panels and side panels, I layed the stainless on the blackboard and marked the location of each tab on the board. Then I used a hobby knife to poke slits at each mark for the tabs to go through the board. That way when I put the stainless on I just had to push it through the precut slits and bend them over on the back side. That way there was no real pressure on those tabs to break them. The bottom piece of stainless is held on by staples originally. I didn't reuse those, however, you could rivet those onto the board.

The best way to measure the locations though is to actually mount the bare board into the car like it belongs. Then measure down and locate the positions so they line up with each other. That way if one board is cut to a different size than original, the trim will still line up.

I think the best way to make a pattern for the door and side panels is to use art construction board and tape it together if not large enough. Then cut that to size, mount it in the car and do your measuring. That way you don't waste good material if you make a mistake, and you'll have a good stiff pattern to work with.

Posted

Gents,

I was about to mention making a pattern like I did in the 70's when tricking vans to put myself through college, but Norm saved me the trouble.

I was in NAPA last week and noticed several racks of clip, dozens of sizes and materials, and next time I need a clip I think I know where to get one.

-Randy

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