Brakes....?

[jmooner3]

Thanks Merle, I had seen this and did this adjustment just the bottom eccentric for the rear... What about the fronts? They seem to have a little different setup with mid retainer spring and additional adjustment. Any tips for the front?

[Merle Coggins]

Read the rest of that section.

Or, click on "Return to P15-D24.com" in the header above. Then find the "Technical Tips" link in the left side of the page. Once on the Tech Tips page scroll about half way down and there's a section regarding adjusting the brakes without the special tools. The front brakes on our trucks, are the same as the rear brakes on the cars, so the procedure written there will work for you.

Merle

[oldmopar]

The front and rear brakes on the one ton should have the same adjustment nuts

There are the 2 on the bottom the anchor bolts and then 2 on the rear of the backing plate which are also used for a minor adjustment. Be sure that the adjustment nuts on the backing plate are actually turning the cam sometimes they brake and the nut will turn but the cam does not move against the shoe

[jmooner3]

I have to get back to the brakes this week. I've been playing with the carb (dif post).

I read the procedure in the tech tips(thanks Merle). Asside from being bigger the shoes in the back only appeard to have the lower heel pivots. I have the shop manual and there are many different brakes listed, It seems very little about the ones I have... It took me a while to find the rear brake section and axle pulling to get the drums off...Really it was this fantastic source of knowledge that solved that one for me too.

The front has the heel cam adjust which I did dial in and all four appear to work as they should. The upper bolts on the backing plate looked like a cam that moved the brake so it was planer with the drum...It didn't look like it moved it closer to the drum...Am I missing another adjustment? I'll get under there Tuesday.

[oldmopar]

  jmooner3 said:

The front has the heel cam adjust which I did dial in and all four appear to work as they should. The upper bolts on the backing plate looked like a cam that moved the brake so it was planer with the drum...It didn't look like it moved it closer to the drum...Am I missing another adjustment? I'll get under there Tuesday.

That is what I was trying to explain in my last post the adjustment nut on the backing plate turns a cam that moves the toe of the shoe close or from the drum. If that cam is not working it may be damage in which case it will need to be repaired. This is much easier to see when the shoes are off

[jmooner3]

old mopar you are the man! a picture is worth a thousand words, I didn't see the cam behind the brake as the shoes are in good shape and already installed with retaining spring. The previous owner seems to have put the parts in but never got to charging the lines. All cams were all the way in to allow for easy removal of the drum.

Did you say the backs had the same or simmilar "upper" adjust bolt? Those I had appart and only saw a slide point for the shoe no cam.

Off with the front drums again:D Thanks!

[oldmopar]

Yes same for the rears should be in about the same place as the ones in the front

Edited April 4, 2010 by oldmopar
Add photo of rear brake

[jmooner3]

Put truck up on stands adjusted all four, multiple itertaions as suggested to what feels like great consistency accross all four. I went so far as to set up each with slight drag- figured this would set the truck for least pedal travel then I could back them off. It's better as it engages before pedal hitting the floor but still lots of pedal travel and brakes are set as close to the drum as I dare, as I said slightly brushing both front and back shoe.

Thoughts?

[Merle Coggins]

Have you checked and adjusted the pedal to M/C linkage rod yet? I had to lengthen mine after replacing my M/C. I had decent brakes but with a low pedal. After adjusting the linkage rod I had decent brakes with the pedal much higher.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

to adjust the length of the rod. Short of having a Miller Tool or an Ammco Tool with all the proper sleeves for a B3B i'll need to adjust all four with the truck on a lift. I am confident in the brakes function wise they are fine, the pedal could be a little higher thats all.

Thanks,

Hank

[jmooner3]

Merle - Haven't looked at the linkage there yet. Any tips or pitfalls to avoid?

[TodFitch]

  jmooner3 said:

Merle - Haven't looked at the linkage there yet. Any tips or pitfalls to avoid?

Yes. Adjust the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder too long and there is a relief port that gets blocked. When that happens the brakes will lock up when you are driving. Been there, done that.

[Merle Coggins]

Remove the return spring from the pedal so that you can better feel when the linkage rod contacts the piston. Adjust the rod length until you have slight movement between when the pedal is against the stop and when the rod contacts the piston. At that point the top of the pedal should move around 1/8" before it begins to compress the M/C piston. As long as you maintain that small amount of free play you won't have the problem that Tod ran in to.

Merle

[HanksB3B]

My pedal travels around 3" then is rock solid at about 5 or 6 inches from the floorboard. Think I only need to adjust each wheel a little more before it's as good as it gets. Would you agree?

Thanks,

Hank