MC

[DollyDodge]

I had rebuilt my MC and all whell cylinders, plus replaced all the hoses. The brakes worked well. I had one leak around the fitting where in the MC where the brake line goes in. I took the MC out took the fitting out, put some high pressure oil resistant thread sealer on the fitting, making sure not to get any inside the MC. I put it all back together. Went to bleed the brakes, got fluid coming out of all bleeder valves with no air, but the MC never built up pressure. What the heck happened? (I went ahead and ordered a new MC from Rock Auto, since the old one did have some minor rust damage in the cylinder which I was able to hone out, but it did have damage). In any event the old MC worked before. I can't figure it out, because I really didn't do anything to it other than fix a leak

[JBNeal]

That's the thing with old hydraulic brakes: you fix one leak, another one pops up somewhar else if'n ya don't replace everything with new. I replaced lines on the '48 after honing the master & wheel cylinders and still had a spongy pedal. Finally bit the bullet and had all the cylinders sleeved by White Post. They told me that the master cylinder & the rear half cylinders were all out of tolerance for the piston cups to seal properly, so fluid was slowly leaking past the sealing lip when pressure was applied. It cost a purty penny, but I had addressed the entire brake system (except the pedal itself) and now it's worry-free braking. When I did the '49, I didn't even bother honing anything, just sent every cylinder to White Post. On both trucks, I went with DOT5 since all the rubber was new; so far, so good...if it weren't for a weeping line on both trucks, I probably wouldn't have to top the MC off at all.

Anyhow, I reckon since ya fixed that one leaky fitting that the tolerance issue may have been amplified. I reckon I spent more $$$ on brakes than on the fuel tank & engine compartment combined...Dad told me to focus on the stopping before the going, and the going before the showing. It was a tough pill to swallow when I was 15, but patience paid off as every time I stomp on the brakes, I can do it with confidence.

Edited March 22, 2010 by JBNeal
poor grammar

[DollyDodge]

Lots of good advice there. Do you have contact info for White Post. Is the resleeving better than buying new cylinders?

I like the quote abour fixing the stopping before going. Makes me smile.

Rpb

[TodFitch]

Lots of good advice there. Do you have contact info for White Post. Is the resleeving better than buying new cylinders?

I like the quote abour fixing the stopping before going. Makes me smile.

Rpb

I had master and wheel cylinders sleeved by:

Sierra Specialty Automotive

3494 Chandler Rd.

Quincy, CA 95971

Telephone: +1.530.283.1886

Fax: +1.530.283.4845

email: joe@brakecylinder.com

http://www.brakecylinder.com/

Quincy is a bit closer to Bishop than Virginia for White Post http://www.whitepost.com/

[HanksB3B]

of re-sleeving. I looked into it and it was much more than ordering a MC for 129.00 rear upper and lowers 24.50 ea. (x4) and 45 ea front left and right.

Total $317.00 from Roberts Motor Parts. Everything was brand new built to factory spec and fit, instaled and operate perfectly.

Hank

[DollyDodge]

Thanks for the links and thoughts on brakes. Quincy is a lot closer than Virginia

[JBNeal]

I don't recall the price, but it was up thar, something like $700 for the whole truck...this was back in '98 and I didn't have a lot of choices available, just what I could find in the Hemmings ads. The advantage I bit on was that the brass sleeving was not as apt to corrode as cast iron would. My cores were ravaged with pitting from sitting so long in a humid environment, and Roberts & Bernbaum & NAPA cost about the same for new. They cleaned them up, sleeved them & replaced all the innerds, good as new.