at last, some progress made on the engine install/mounts

[buds truck]

Its been a long time, but I finally found some time to get into the shop and install the motor and mock it up for custom motor mounts. This sure has been a learning experience. I didn't know that putting in an older motor in the dakota frame (which came with a 318) would be such a problem. I was assured on another forum (a dakota forum at that) that the engine would just bolt in. NOT! So I had to resort to building custom mounts using the original brackets that came with the 68 318. I found that one of the braces I saved off the dakota when I took it apart (either a core support piece or a gas tank brace) was just the right width for the rubber mount biscuit bracket, so off I went. Here are some of the pics. Tomorrow I plan on making the lower braces so it has more strength.

[buds truck]

more pics

[buds truck]

2 more pics showing that the carb is level both ways with a purnometer

[JBNeal]

looks good...have ya thought about adding gussets below your fabricated brackets to spread the engine loading across the web of the frame? I'm thinking that if ya drew a straight line from the top bottom of the engine heads through the motor mount bolts that it might pass very near the bottom of the frame.

[buds truck]

looks good...have ya thought about adding gussets below your fabricated brackets to spread the engine loading across the web of the frame? I'm thinking that if ya drew a straight line from the top bottom of the engine heads through the motor mount bolts that it might pass very near the bottom of the frame.

yup. my thoughts exactly. that is what I will be doing tomorrow. just ran out of time and energy tonite. :D:D

[Plymouthy Adams]

they changed the engine mounts on the later model 318 casting (magnum series) and thus bolt in not direct and simple...

am not sure if this an issue in your truck..but clipping the Dakota to the passenger car series has an issue with shooting the tunnel......(V6 and the 360 V8) I have had to move the engine to the drivers' side in both cases and I moved the engine rearward in the case of the V6 quite some distance closer to the firewall which requires no mods to the firewall itself.. I found that notching the cross support is required to allow proper clearance in engine torque movement..though it is not great..last thing you need is an oil pan banging the frame..you can see this notch in the picture just below the motor mount bracket (yes the steering is yet to be bolting in place as shown in this shot)

[buds truck]

Finished making the gussets for the front mounts. I am satisfied with them and I guess that's all that matters. Next weekend I get the heads from the machine shop. the ones on there now are just to help with the mock up.

[buds truck]

they changed the engine mounts on the later model 318 casting (magnum series) and thus bolt in not direct and simple...

am not sure if this an issue in your truck..but clipping the Dakota to the passenger car series has an issue with shooting the tunnel......(V6 and the 360 V8) I have had to move the engine to the drivers' side in both cases and I moved the engine rearward in the case of the V6 quite some distance closer to the firewall which requires no mods to the firewall itself.. I found that notching the cross support is required to allow proper clearance in engine torque movement..though it is not great..last thing you need is an oil pan banging the frame..you can see this notch in the picture just below the motor mount bracket (yes the steering is yet to be bolting in place as shown in this shot)

Tim, the tunnel and the firewall are from the Dakota and grafted to the 53. worked out well. The only modification I had to do was to the steering column. I shortened it and will need to reverse the shift arm to miss the exhaust manifold. I have about an inch and a half to 2 inches clearance on the crossmember to engine area top and back. the motor actually sits slightly to the pasenger side to clear the power brake booster. Bud