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Posted

Today I installed the radiator and hoses and filled the system with coolant. Then I got under the car to install the bolts for the rear motor mounts and I noticed coolant dripping. It was coming from between the head and the block at the front corner of the engine (extreme right front corner as you're standing in front of the engine). This is where I attached the ground for the battery, but like a dummy, I thought I could attach the cable directly beneath the head bolt. I just checked some pictures in the archives and see that most guys have the cable fastened via one of those bolts that thread down INTO the head bolt itself. Also, I hadn't torqued that one bolt down to spec yet, so I figured that was why it was leaking. I torqued it down and it still leaked. So I took the bolt out, removed the battery cable, torqued the bolt back down without it, and it still leaks.

The coolant pooled up around the #1 spark plug and I figured it had leaked into the combustion chamber. I pulled the spark plug and used a shop vac to get the coolant out. I think it might have just pooled around the spark plug from the top of the engine and I maybe only have a leak to the outside.

I have it down to about 70 foot pounds and it's still seeping very slowly. Under pressure I'm sure it will leak worse.

Do I need a new head gasket?

Posted
Drain the coolant from the block then remove the head bolt that is leaking. Wrap the head bolt threads with teflon tape then re-install and torque it down. Then refill the coolant.

Good advice. That's how I fixed mine.

Posted

You guys have no idea how happy you just made me. I've been agonizing over the prospect of pulling the head off. Once I saw that it wouldn't stop leaking, I just put everything away and went inside. Knocked all the enthusiasm right out of me. Oh, and it was getting to be nap time anyway.

I looked at the specs for the cooling system in my manual and I didn't see how many gallons of coolant this system takes. I think I put more than three in there.

Posted

As I remember in the old days we oust to take string and rap it around the bolt and then install. But with teflon tap its a snap!

I had a slight head leak also up where yours was at but it was one of the two bolts that hold down the inlet pipe for the radiator water.

Posted

Joe, take about 1/2 an hour, drain down coolant, not all, but enough to be below the head. Then wrap bolt with teflon tape and re-install, add coolant, and fire this baby up.

I am dying to read that it's running for you, and all is well.................fred

Posted

Thanks, Fred. I'm wondering about the other bolts that go into the water jacket. I understand there are others but I don't find anything in the manual about their location. I figured that while I have the coolant drained I might as well get all the ones that might leak.

Posted
Thanks, Fred. I'm wondering about the other bolts that go into the water jacket. I understand there are others but I don't find anything in the manual about their location. I figured that while I have the coolant drained I might as well get all the ones that might leak.

As I recall, all of the bolts except a few that go into the intake ports go into the water jacket.

Marty

Posted

I've never heard of cracking a block with teflon tape, but I didn't have much luck with sealing up my head studs with it either. The last time I used Aviation form-a-gasket sealer (a truly vile-looking dark brown liquid) purchased at my local auto parts store with much better success.

Marty

Posted

EDIT: As Don C can tell you, (or so he was told. He does not believe it, or is still testing the theory after several thousand miles) you can not(( EDIT 2: should not, can not, was the wrong word choice, obviously you CAN DO almost anything)) use teflon tape on your head bolts, as you will crack the block. Lets get that discussion going again. (could be in a new thread. could be a poll) Some believe you should not use the tape, and if that is what they believe, then I guess they should not. I do not know either way.

Shel;

I am still waiting for the first crack to appear;) Once it happens I will report my findings.:D

Posted

I just looked at the original flathead that was in my car. It's sitting in the garage with the head off of it. The head bolts that go into the water jacket are all but the ones above the intake and exhaust ports. So if you're standing in front of the engine, you have three long rows of head bolts running front to back. It's the right and center rows that go into the water jacket. The row on the left does not.

Posted
Well, I'm two seconds away from getting out the teflon tape. If any man objects, speak now or forever hold your peace.

For what it's worth, I used the liquid teflon stuff in the sqeeze tube...

Pete

Posted
I used plumbers goop once and the instant I bent over to tighten the bolts a large crack appeared.

Ye Old "Plumbers Butt". Used to have a Supervisor at the Pen, he would have more Plumbers butt, pants hanging the more Crazy or stressed he got, was pretty funnny to say the least.........

Posted

So I put tape on all the head bolts that go into the water jacket. It wasn't that bad except for the fact that I had to remove the spark plug wire loom and the coil mount and the carburetor linkage. I'm not looking forward to taking all that stuff off again when I do the second torque-down. I also had a small leak around the thermostat housing so I pulled that off and reinstalled with some Permatex type sealer. I think the problem was that the underside of the housing is so badly pitted that even with a gasket it won't seal completely. I haven't filled it back up with coolant yet. Figured I'd wait till tomorrow morning when I'll be better situated to deal with any leaks.

Posted

I have a head bolt directly under the mount for the ignition coil. The throttle linkage is too close to a couple head bolts for me to turn a wrench on them. It would help, I guess, if I had a 1/2" extension. Probably will get one soon.

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