55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 Thanx Jim, anyone of us could do this, just requires time and patience..... Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted October 21, 2009 Report Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) Fred, is there any way to duplicate that embossing stuff as you say it smells bad? Looks like real progress being made, otherwise. You're doing a thorough job.......when I did mine, I used masonite (will not use that again), and was in a hurry so some of my measurements and fit are not quite perfect. Have used this interior for the past 10 years or more, has gotten plenty compliments (cause most folks don't see the imperfections), and it was not very expensive to do. Edited October 21, 2009 by BobT-47P15 Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 Fred, is there any way to duplicate that embossing stuff as you say it smells bad?Looks like real progress being made, otherwise. You're doing a thorough job.......when I did mine, I used masonite (will not use that again), and was in a hurry so some of my measurements and fit are not quite perfect. Have used this interior for the past 10 years or more, has gotten plenty compliments (cause most folks don't see the imperfections), and it was not very expensive to do. Bob the embossing strips,(not sure of the correct name), are rubber like, I will clean them off real good, then will try washing them witha disinfecatant cleaner, like Mr Clean, using a cloth or sponge, not submerging the strips. They should be okay then, hopefully they will glue okay onto the panel, the hard par will be getting the material glued on to it, as you have to have close to 100% contact, to create the embossment. Your interior looks great to me, most of the time I like everyone else work better than mine, maybe a perfectionist thing....Fred PS, if I could afford it, a lot of this work would have been hired out, as this is very tiem consuming, I have a lot of work to do on the house this fall/winter, after this project is more or less complete,will not be doing another fora long time. Want to do a 40s early 50s Dodge truck next.. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 21, 2009 Report Posted October 21, 2009 Fred, on the P15, that lower section (carpet area on yours) has a stainless strip that it's attached to the top section of the panel covering with. If you rip off the cloth section on top, you will see that the covering is only clipped onto the stainless strip. So..........you have to raise those clips off, clean out all the old material from under them, then attach to your new panel covering the same way by bending those clips down. To get the material down into that embossing strip. Find something that fits in that grove real nice to use to press the covering in as you cover the panel. Actually, you could use a small dowel if nothing else. Just grind it down on the tip until it will seat down in that grove, then smooth it off on the point of the dowel so it doesn't cut into the material. Then you can drag it along those indentations to seat the material into the panel. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 Fred' date=' on the P15, that lower section (carpet area on yours) has a stainless strip that it's attached to the top section of the panel covering with. If you rip off the cloth section on top, you will see that the covering is only clipped onto the stainless strip. So..........you have to raise those clips off, clean out all the old material from under them, then attach to your new panel covering the same way by bending those clips down.To get the material down into that embossing strip. Find something that fits in that grove real nice to use to press the covering in as you cover the panel. Actually, you could use a small dowel if nothing else. Just grind it down on the tip until it will seat down in that grove, then smooth it off on the point of the dowel so it doesn't cut into the material. Then you can drag it along those indentations to seat the material into the panel.[/quote'] Hi Norm, on the Chrysler the stainless strips ly on top of the panel, they have there attachments poke straight through, at least by the look of mine. The carpet is surge edged, the one side is sewn right to the panel fabric, the outer edge and bottom overlpe the backer board. I liekt he dowel idea.....Thanx Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 Here isa pic of the old material with carpet sewn onto the bottom,the stainless strip, pierces right through the material and into the backer board, the material does not go under a cap for the trim strip, as Plyms do. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 21, 2009 Report Posted October 21, 2009 Fred, If you have no stainless strip that goes along the top edge of the carpet, then you'll have to sew the carpet onto your door panel material prior to installing the covering. If you look at the door panels on my website, you'll see some flat material, plus the pleated material. I had to sew those together first, prior to installing the covering on the backer board, then add the stainless over the sewing joint. In your case though, without something to cover that joint, you will need to turn under the edges of the carpet to get an even good looking joint between the two. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Posted October 21, 2009 Here is a prototype right side kick panel, take note mine isa different shape as it is a Chrysler, and I cut out a bit to squeeze by the heater box better. Not bad, had no pattern, made up on from a newspaper. This was not an easy task, the panel looks like the outline of Texas..... Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 21, 2009 Report Posted October 21, 2009 Fred, You may be surprised, but actually that looks about the same shape as the P15 coupe kick panel. I had the originals to use as a pattern. Looks like the only difference would probably be the size. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Posted October 22, 2009 (edited) Okay made both kick panels for both side of the car. Now I am going to wrap vinyl, over them, should I use 1/4 inch foam too, how about mounting them, looks like mine can be mounting with door panel clips, as there are holes for them to mount. I think I am going to use some nice fastener screws, this will also hold them tighter. Along the A pillar, where the kick panel runs along, there is little sharp pointed deal. Do I use those to attach the windlace, any idea what those are there for?.....Thanx guys, know this a long one, but I appreciate the help....Fred Pics Edited October 22, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
Niel Hoback Posted October 22, 2009 Report Posted October 22, 2009 There are little pointy things along the door edge of the kick panel that you put the windlace under. Line it up with the edge of the door opening and bend the little point things down to trap the windlace. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 22, 2009 Report Posted October 22, 2009 Fred, My kick panels are mounted with four stainless screws. One at the top and one at the bottom along the door edge. The other two mounting screws go through the heater/fresh air ducts vent cover at the door edge, that is slipped over the kick panels. The vent has a grove that the kick panel slips into. That was the way my originals were held on, so that's how I put them back on. Quote
RobertKB Posted October 22, 2009 Report Posted October 22, 2009 Here is a prototype right side kick panel, take note mine isa different shape as it is a Chrysler, and I cut out a bit to squeeze by the heater box better. Not bad, had no pattern, made up on from a newspaper. This was not an easy task, the panel looks like the outline of Texas..... Hope you were drinking Lone Star beer when making the Texas kick panel. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Posted October 22, 2009 Does anyone see the ghostly image in the 2nd pic,,,,,wooooooooo it's Halloween time Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 Fred, I don't believe the kick panels were covered with any material when new. They were simply colored cardboard. However, you can certainly cover them any way you wish......I covered mine to match the door panels. Mine were actually attached vertically at the door opening with small nails to a tack strip that is attached to the metal framework with tabs. However, I think chrome screws with the trim collars would look just fine. That's what holds on my door panels. No windlace installed in this pic. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) Fred, I don't believe the kick panels were covered with any material when new.They were simply colored cardboard. However, you can certainly cover them any way you wish......I covered mine to match the door panels. Mine were actually attached vertically at the door opening with small nails to a tack strip that is attached to the metal framework with tabs. However, I think chrome screws with the trim collars would look just fine. That's what holds on my door panels. No windlace installed in this pic. Hi Bob, I used new SS screws with trim collars, to fasten the kickers for a preliminary fit, now they will be recovered with the same material as the door panels, which is dark blue, will use some 1/4 inch foam on there first. In some ways I would not mind evn the door panels going on this fashion along each bottom corner, as the clips are not so great in each corner , as the panle holes were hard to get right in these corners for some reason, so may use a screw and collar on each door panel bottom corner. Here is a pic of the rear panel, with all the holes and cut out for everything, including the dome light switch...Fred those gasket hole cutters are great.. Here is a pic of the kick panel srewed on, steering column will get paint, new carpet will look better too. Bumper pan installed, will pull prep and paint as car body next spring. SeFront seat bottom, is actually a nice specimen, it will be getting the re-upholstery soon, would like the driver side a little firmer though....Fred Edited October 24, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 24, 2009 Report Posted October 24, 2009 Fred, A little caution about using the stainless screws with a padded covering over the kick panels and door panels. With the padded coverings, the top vinyl/cloth covering is not directly attached/glued to the panel on front side, the padding is. Therefore, when you run the screw through the vinyl covering it will cause the covering to bunch up in the screw threads, because the covering comes away from the padding. There is a way to prevent that though. Go to a sewing store and pick up a package of grommets and the tool to press them onto the material with. Then put the grommets in the screw holes first in the material. The tool works similar to a rivet tool, except its for applying grommets to material. Doing it this way, the screw has a nice clean hole to go though and won't get caught in the threads, causing it to bunch up. The grommets come in different sizes and the tool can be used on any size. Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Posted October 24, 2009 Fred' date='A little caution about using the stainless screws with a padded covering over the kick panels and door panels. With the padded coverings, the top vinyl/cloth covering is not directly attached/glued to the panel on front side, the padding is. Therefore, when you run the screw through the vinyl covering it will cause the covering to bunch up in the screw threads, because the covering comes away from the padding. There is a way to prevent that though. Go to a sewing store and pick up a package of grommets and the tool to press them onto the material with. Then put the grommets in the screw holes first in the material. The tool works similar to a rivet tool, except its for applying grommets to material. Doing it this way, the screw has a nice clean hole to go though and won't get caught in the threads, causing it to bunch up. The grommets come in different sizes and the tool can be used on any size.[/quote'] Thanx Norm, this isa good idea, will do.... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Thanks norm, I'll go redo mine now. I covered them with carpet matching the floor and only glued them to the backng panels. I have the grommets but never thought of using them. Great idea. Quote
Frank Elder Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Is the carpet on the panels an option? My D24C has a vinyl covering instead... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 No, the carpet was me using what I had laying around. It was scraps from the floor which was supposed to be rubber mat. Quote
Frank Elder Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Thanks Niel, hows the digit? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Coming along nicely, but quite tender and touchy. Thanks for asking. Quote
Frank Elder Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Good for you, if it makes you feel any better I don't think I've ever seen a 10 fingered "Shop" teacher:) Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted October 25, 2009 Report Posted October 25, 2009 Guys, I forgot to mention one other tool needed that will help you to install the metal grommets. That's a leather hole punch. The wheel turns for various size holes. The grommet tool works best if you first punch a hole in the material. One of these will do that nice and neat. Then insert the grommet and fasten it in the hole with the tool. You can find this tool in the hardware store. You use a hole size slightly smaller than the grommet size. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.