Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Fred, is there any way to duplicate that embossing stuff as you say it smells bad?

Looks like real progress being made, otherwise.

You're doing a thorough job.......when I did mine, I used masonite (will not use that again), and was in a

hurry so some of my measurements and fit are not quite perfect. Have used this interior for the past 10

years or more, has gotten plenty compliments (cause most folks don't see the imperfections), and it was

not very expensive to do.

Edited by BobT-47P15
Posted
Fred, is there any way to duplicate that embossing stuff as you say it smells bad?

Looks like real progress being made, otherwise.

You're doing a thorough job.......when I did mine, I used masonite (will not use that again), and was in a

hurry so some of my measurements and fit are not quite perfect. Have used this interior for the past 10

years or more, has gotten plenty compliments (cause most folks don't see the imperfections), and it was

not very expensive to do.

Bob the embossing strips,(not sure of the correct name), are rubber like, I will clean them off real good, then will try washing them witha disinfecatant cleaner, like Mr Clean, using a cloth or sponge, not submerging the strips. They should be okay then, hopefully they will glue okay onto the panel, the hard par will be getting the material glued on to it, as you have to have close to 100% contact, to create the embossment.

Your interior looks great to me, most of the time I like everyone else work better than mine, maybe a perfectionist thing....Fred PS, if I could afford it, a lot of this work would have been hired out, as this is very tiem consuming, I have a lot of work to do on the house this fall/winter, after this project is more or less complete,will not be doing another fora long time. Want to do a 40s early 50s Dodge truck next..

Posted

Fred, on the P15, that lower section (carpet area on yours) has a stainless strip that it's attached to the top section of the panel covering with. If you rip off the cloth section on top, you will see that the covering is only clipped onto the stainless strip. So..........you have to raise those clips off, clean out all the old material from under them, then attach to your new panel covering the same way by bending those clips down.

To get the material down into that embossing strip. Find something that fits in that grove real nice to use to press the covering in as you cover the panel. Actually, you could use a small dowel if nothing else. Just grind it down on the tip until it will seat down in that grove, then smooth it off on the point of the dowel so it doesn't cut into the material. Then you can drag it along those indentations to seat the material into the panel.

Posted
Fred' date=' on the P15, that lower section (carpet area on yours) has a stainless strip that it's attached to the top section of the panel covering with. If you rip off the cloth section on top, you will see that the covering is only clipped onto the stainless strip. So..........you have to raise those clips off, clean out all the old material from under them, then attach to your new panel covering the same way by bending those clips down.

To get the material down into that embossing strip. Find something that fits in that grove real nice to use to press the covering in as you cover the panel. Actually, you could use a small dowel if nothing else. Just grind it down on the tip until it will seat down in that grove, then smooth it off on the point of the dowel so it doesn't cut into the material. Then you can drag it along those indentations to seat the material into the panel.[/quote']

Hi Norm, on the Chrysler the stainless strips ly on top of the panel, they have there attachments poke straight through, at least by the look of mine.

The carpet is surge edged, the one side is sewn right to the panel fabric, the outer edge and bottom overlpe the backer board.

I liekt he dowel idea.....Thanx Fred

Posted

Here isa pic of the old material with carpet sewn onto the bottom,the stainless strip, pierces right through the material and into the backer board, the material does not go under a cap for the trim strip, as Plyms do.

post-114-1358535198754_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585351987979_thumb.jpg

Posted

Fred,

If you have no stainless strip that goes along the top edge of the carpet, then you'll have to sew the carpet onto your door panel material prior to installing the covering.

If you look at the door panels on my website, you'll see some flat material, plus the pleated material. I had to sew those together first, prior to installing the covering on the backer board, then add the stainless over the sewing joint. In your case though, without something to cover that joint, you will need to turn under the edges of the carpet to get an even good looking joint between the two.

Posted

Here is a prototype right side kick panel, take note mine isa different shape as it is a Chrysler, and I cut out a bit to squeeze by the heater box better. Not bad, had no pattern, made up on from a newspaper. This was not an easy task, the panel looks like the outline of Texas.....

post-114-13585351988532_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Okay made both kick panels for both side of the car.

Now I am going to wrap vinyl, over them, should I use 1/4 inch foam too, how about mounting them, looks like mine can be mounting with door panel clips, as there are holes for them to mount. I think I am going to use some nice fastener screws, this will also hold them tighter.

Along the A pillar, where the kick panel runs along, there is little sharp pointed deal. Do I use those to attach the windlace, any idea what those are there for?.....Thanx guys, know this a long one, but I appreciate the help....Fred

Pics

post-114-13585351991967_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585351993197_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585351993503_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
Posted

There are little pointy things along the door edge of the kick panel that you put the windlace under. Line it up with the edge of the door opening and bend the little point things down to trap the windlace.

Posted

Fred,

My kick panels are mounted with four stainless screws. One at the top and one at the bottom along the door edge. The other two mounting screws go through the heater/fresh air ducts vent cover at the door edge, that is slipped over the kick panels. The vent has a grove that the kick panel slips into. That was the way my originals were held on, so that's how I put them back on.

Posted
Here is a prototype right side kick panel, take note mine isa different shape as it is a Chrysler, and I cut out a bit to squeeze by the heater box better. Not bad, had no pattern, made up on from a newspaper. This was not an easy task, the panel looks like the outline of Texas.....

Hope you were drinking Lone Star beer when making the Texas kick panel.:P

Posted

Fred, I don't believe the kick panels were covered with any material when new.

They were simply colored cardboard.

However, you can certainly cover them any way you wish......I covered mine to

match the door panels. Mine were actually attached vertically at the door opening with

small nails to a tack strip that is attached to the metal framework with tabs.

However, I think chrome screws with the trim collars would look just fine.

That's what holds on my door panels. No windlace installed in this pic.

post-10-13585352012252_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)
Fred, I don't believe the kick panels were covered with any material when new.

They were simply colored cardboard.

However, you can certainly cover them any way you wish......I covered mine to

match the door panels. Mine were actually attached vertically at the door opening with

small nails to a tack strip that is attached to the metal framework with tabs.

However, I think chrome screws with the trim collars would look just fine.

That's what holds on my door panels. No windlace installed in this pic.

Hi Bob, I used new SS screws with trim collars, to fasten the kickers for a preliminary fit, now they will be recovered with the same material as the door panels, which is dark blue, will use some 1/4 inch foam on there first.

In some ways I would not mind evn the door panels going on this fashion along each bottom corner, as the clips are not so great in each corner , as the panle holes were hard to get right in these corners for some reason, so may use a screw and collar on each door panel bottom corner.

Here is a pic of the rear panel, with all the holes and cut out for everything, including the dome light switch...Fred those gasket hole cutters are great..

Here is a pic of the kick panel srewed on, steering column will get paint, new carpet will look better too.

Bumper pan installed, will pull prep and paint as car body next spring.

SeFront seat bottom, is actually a nice specimen, it will be getting the re-upholstery soon, would like the driver side a little firmer though....Fred

post-114-1358535204561_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585352045969_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585352046257_thumb.jpg

post-114-13585352046562_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
Posted

Fred,

A little caution about using the stainless screws with a padded covering over the kick panels and door panels.

With the padded coverings, the top vinyl/cloth covering is not directly attached/glued to the panel on front side, the padding is. Therefore, when you run the screw through the vinyl covering it will cause the covering to bunch up in the screw threads, because the covering comes away from the padding. There is a way to prevent that though.

Go to a sewing store and pick up a package of grommets and the tool to press them onto the material with. Then put the grommets in the screw holes first in the material. The tool works similar to a rivet tool, except its for applying grommets to material. Doing it this way, the screw has a nice clean hole to go though and won't get caught in the threads, causing it to bunch up. The grommets come in different sizes and the tool can be used on any size.

Posted
Fred' date='

A little caution about using the stainless screws with a padded covering over the kick panels and door panels.

With the padded coverings, the top vinyl/cloth covering is not directly attached/glued to the panel on front side, the padding is. Therefore, when you run the screw through the vinyl covering it will cause the covering to bunch up in the screw threads, because the covering comes away from the padding. There is a way to prevent that though.

Go to a sewing store and pick up a package of grommets and the tool to press them onto the material with. Then put the grommets in the screw holes first in the material. The tool works similar to a rivet tool, except its for applying grommets to material. Doing it this way, the screw has a nice clean hole to go though and won't get caught in the threads, causing it to bunch up. The grommets come in different sizes and the tool can be used on any size.[/quote']

Thanx Norm, this isa good idea, will do....

Posted

Thanks norm, I'll go redo mine now. I covered them with carpet matching the floor and only glued them to the backng panels. I have the grommets but never thought of using them. Great idea.

Posted

Guys,

I forgot to mention one other tool needed that will help you to install the metal grommets. That's a leather hole punch. The wheel turns for various size holes. The grommet tool works best if you first punch a hole in the material. One of these will do that nice and neat. Then insert the grommet and fasten it in the hole with the tool. You can find this tool in the hardware store. You use a hole size slightly smaller than the grommet size.

sunvisortool.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use