brakes-aggravtion

[ChrisCoccia]

My brakes were working, then my rebuilt MC went. I ordered a new MC from Andy Bernbaum and installed it. Apparently the pressure from the new one caused my left front WC to start leaking. I called Bernbaum's to order parts to rebuild the WC, but he didn't have the pistons. So I said to myself just go ahead and order a new WC, but I was informed they only sold them in pairs. I went ahead and got two WC so they would match and everything would be new. Well now they match-they both leak! They are leaking from inside the wheel, my brake shoes are fouled. The hose connections are not leaking. I put the one marked R on the passener side and the one marked L on the drivers side. Am I missing something or should I start throwing stuff?

[MBF]

I've got the same problem with the whl cyls on my 36 Plymouth that I got from BB. I'm going to have the originals sleeved this winter and be done with it. If you're not running the truck I've had luck throwing wet shoes in a drum of speedi dri for a few days, and then hitting them with brakeclean if they're not to badly saturated. Just be careful working around the brakes if they're the original shoes (asbestos) and wear a respirator, not a dust mask. Mike

[Jim Roach]

I purchased a rear wc from BB and it leaked from the start. Purchased one from NAPA and it worked just fine. I tried to discuss it with BB but he wouldn't return emails. I've long since scratched him from my parts list.

Jim Roach

[John-T-53]

I purchased all new wheel cylinders from Roberts and they work fine with no leaks. I did have a line leak in one of the rears, though. The back of the studs nicked the steel line inside the drum and fouled the shoes. I was able to dry them out using isoprophyl alcohol and a propane torch with a spread tip. I first sprayed the shoes liberally with brake cleaner, sanded off the glaze, and sprayed them again. Then I doused them in alcohol and let it soak in. I did this a few times, then on the last application I fired up my torch on low and heated up the shoe surface until its color changed from dark to light. No problems since!

This method worked on shoes that were "lightly soaked" with brake fluid. I caught it just in time before they were completely soaked. Not sure if it would work on a pair that were dripping. :-o

[Jim Gaspard]

I don't venture over to the car side very often, but I do sense they are also very opinionated, and with a larger following, have some experience with BB service and quality. Since we have some cross board members here, are the ill feelings mutual across both forums.

I have a concern. For my frame off project I bought all my brake restore parts from BB and completed last fall all my work except adding fluids. At my pace, it will be another year or two until I will be ready to charge up all my systems with a completed resto for the road. Right now my cab and bed are off the frame. Should I test out the wheel cylinders and lines now while everything is freely accessible?

[grey beard]

Hi Jim,

I also got all my brake system parts from BB. Man, but his bedside manner sufrely does lack serious gravity! That guy can send attitude thru a phone line quicker'n any license bureau clerk.

Anyhoo, installee everything and bled the system and have had nairy a problem since. I'd suggest you go ahead and put the system together and bleed things so you have a full pedal. That way nothing will dry out any further. Who knows how old his stock is, or where he got it from. etc.

The very most simple way to bleed brakes is like this: take your old master cylinder cap and drill a hole in the center. Tap this out to 3/8 NPT thread size. Go to the hardware and buy a 3/8-inch threaded hose barb fitting and install it in the old cap. Now take your old garden sprayer and take the wand off the hose. Stick the hose on your master cylinder, after you've filled it with fluid. Pump up a few pounds worth of pressure on the sprayer bottle.

NOTE - do NOT put fluid in the sprayer - you're just using it to make air pressure, not to dispense any fluid. When you're finished, you'll still have a good usable garden sprayer.

Now go around your brake bleeders with a wrench and a rag, and crack each one in turn, till you see fluid. Catch the few drops of fluid that come out in your rag. After you've done a few wheel cylinders, stop and check your fluid level. Don't let it get too low or it will entrain more air in the system. Keep the master cylinder full, and keep bleeding cylinders one at a time till you get nothing but fluid when you open each cylinder.

Now, at this point, if your brakes are adjusted properly, I guarantee you will have a nice firm pedal. No muss, no fuss, and no brake fluid on the garage floor. Why, you didn't even need your first wife in there pumping the pedal and all like that there .. .

Good Luck

[Jim Gaspard]

I can handle that procedure. What is the best way to add initial brake fluid to the system, through the master cylinder with bleeders opened slightly to let air escape? I'm sure that step can be found somewhere here through search, but while you're on a roll,............Thanks almighty medicine man of mopar!

[ChrisCoccia]

I talked to BB this AM. he tells me that the bore for the fittings on the inside is bigger and if the shoes push the pistons too far in the fluid leaks around them. I am still working here 10pm, but when I get time this wknd I am going to try to make sure the pistons are all the way out and try to get some hydraulic pressure behind them with the drums off. I was thinking I'd try fixing some c-clamps over the end s of the cylinders then bleeding to see if they still leak. If so I will be calling him back.

[JoelOkie]

I recently replaced my entire brake system on my B1B with parts (except brake lines) from Andy B's......everything worked great, and went text book smooth, including the brake bleeding and adjustment. I think it's probably the first time for me in dealing with lockheed brakes that there wasn't at least some littlle nagging issue that had to be re-done. I sure watched the bottom inside of the tires for several days, half expecting to see fluid on at least one of them, but they have worked so far.

It was nice to install everything and it all work just as it was supposed to. I bought wheel cylinders for my 46 Plymouth coupe a few years ago from the local NAPA, (who as someone mentioned usually have good brake parts), for the most part, such as I have experienced. The two rear ones both leaked initially, and when I took them apart I found what appeared to be light rust, or corrosion of some nature, behind the pistons, near where the brake fluid comes in. Emory clothed them lightly to remove whatever it was, put back together, and they have been working good since. I use DOT 5.

I guess it may just be the luck of the draw of some of these parts for older vehicles, to some degree, how long they have been sitting around, and how they have been stored, ect.

Joel

[Jerry Roberts]

[quote=grey beard;

...<snip ...

The very most simple way to bleed brakes is like this: take your old master cylinder cap and drill a hole in the center. Tap this out to 3/8 NPT thread size. Go to the hardware and buy a 3/8-inch threaded hose barb fitting and install it in the old cap. ...<snip>

When you are modifying your old cap , you will also find a very small hole in the cap that must be plugged for this procedure .

[PatS....]

How about a reverse bleed??? Fluid IN through the bleeder, chase the air out the master...

This link is for a motorcycle so the sizes of hose given is too small but the general procedure is the same for any brake system.

Works great, especially if you are by yourself.

http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bleeder.htm

Google reverse bleeder for a couple of commercial kit$$$.