plan of attack

[47chrysler]

I ended up buying the 360 moter and transmission for my 47 chrysler. I plan on cleaning it up inside and out. Should I bore it out and go with new rings and pistions. or can I just put new rings and leave it at that? I am on a tight bugget with about 500. to go into the motor. What should I have done to the heads? Never did a motor rebuild and looking for others ideas and thoughts thanks gary S.

[55 Fargo]

Gary, if this engine cannot be used as is, I would dismantle it, have it hot tanked, and have the machine shop take measurements, or do that your self.

If you can use standard bearings, and are able to get the valves ground, then maybe you could get oversized rings and be done.

$500 is a real tight budget, especially when doing an engine, even if you do it yourself.

You will need to plasti-gage the bearings, to see where there at too.

How does the engine look now, have you got the heads off and looked at the cyls yet.....Fred

[47chrysler]

I am pulling the transmission off to day. After draining the oil, will be bolting the motor to a stand. Do not know how far I will get but hope to have the heads off tonight.

[Merle Coggins]

Poor mans rebuild =

1. Disassemble and inspect. If all is in good shape, pistons are good, cylinder bores are smooth but with some taper, crank journals are clean and smooth, etc, than a cheap rebuild is possible.

2. Get a large wash tub or plastic kiddy pool and fill with hot water and a good degreasing soap. Simple Green or Dawn dish washing soap would work. Using different shaped brushes, including a wire brush, clean everything. Be sure to get some long skinny brushes that can get into the oil passages in the crank and block. When you're done washing and drying the parts be sure to oil up the machined surfaces, cylinder bores, bearing bores, block deck, etc, to protect them from rusting.

3. Measure the crank journals, cylinder bores, and anything else to determine if it's standard size or has been machined once already. Then based on those specs go buy your gaskets, seals, bearings, and piston rings, and etc. I highly recommend replacing the cam bearings too, but you may need to have a qualified shop do this since it takes special tools.

4. Reassemble the engine with the new parts. You'll need a piston ring compressor and a torque wrench at minimum, along with regular tools. Be sure to use Plastiguage to check bearing clearances. It may seem to be a waste of time, but it assures you that all is right between the bearings and the journals. Use plenty of engine assembly lube and don't be afraid to ask for help from someone who has rebuilt engines before. It's not too difficult if you take your time and pay attention to the details. I also highly recommend getting a shop manual on the engine. It will be invaluable during reassembly.

You will probably have to farm out the heads to a shop to have the valves ground, and for the cam bearing replacement. But other than that you should be able to get your engine freshened up within your budget. It won't be perfect, but it should run well enough for a long time.

If the valve job pushes your budget limit, and the valves and seats are still OK, you may be able to just clean them and lap them in by hand. Get some valve lapping compound and a lapping tool (a curvy stick with suction cups on either end) and lap away. This will help get a good seat on the valves again.

Merle

[Plymouthy Adams]

as a note on use of the plastigage, and yes I have seen it done wrong, you must have the caps and shells free of oil...this is the only way to get a true reading...ensure your shells are correctly indexed to the cutouts..do not turn the crank while doing this procedure, unit passes inspection..remove all residue of the plasticgage..THEN properly lube, fit and torque and proceed to next insert set..if crank being checked is still in the block and still in the car...you must support the adjacent bearing cap to get correct reading..if on engine stand and laying on the journals (head facing down)..proceed as normal..