mackster Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Makkelsay, I posted a link on suspension upgrade in the tech section of this forum with a link to an article upgrading an early GM product which is set up much like our cars are. I also describe a system that I have made and hope to install on my car using all MoPar parts. Check it out. Thanks for posting all this info james, I will check it out. Sure sounds really interesting. . . . Quote
makkelsay Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Posted March 1, 2009 almost done with the engine put the headers i got for dirt cheap on for S&G's since i wont be using them till further down the road im still waiting on my new valve covers so the chrome ones are just placed on there and that air cleaner is trashed i just put it on there to see what itd look like haha heres the list of goodies on this engine Offy Dial-A-Flow intake Holley 4150 Dbl Pumper with larger jets Comp Cams 340 cam and lifters New push rods M/T Valve Covers New Gaskets all around Summit Oil relocation kit Taylor Spiro 8mm Wires Accel Spark Plugs All new Expansion plugs(not in yet) Quote
makkelsay Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Posted March 3, 2009 no comments......sheesh:( well i ordered a summit fuel electric fuel pump and plumbing kit because my mech fuel pump is apparently fubar! so that chunk of change puts doing the brakes off for a bit i should have the valve covers and new pil pan on tomorrow and ill take pics and better ones at that:rolleyes: Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 3, 2009 Report Posted March 3, 2009 I would ilke to say something but the pictures are sideways and crappy so all I can say is sheesh..... Quote
makkelsay Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Posted March 3, 2009 Yeah I know the pics are bad...my phones camera is awful Ill try to borrow a camera soon....I need to document this for reference for others Quote
makkelsay Posted March 4, 2009 Author Report Posted March 4, 2009 well its just my luck i put my M/T valve covers on and everything seemed to be going ok tightened everything down walked away to start on my frame adapter plates and i hear a loud pop walk over to my engine and see a crack almost encircling(sp?) one of the bolt holes so is there a way to have them repaired or am i just SOL? Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 well its just my lucki put my M/T valve covers on and everything seemed to be going ok tightened everything down walked away to start on my frame adapter plates and i hear a loud pop walk over to my engine and see a crack almost encircling(sp?) one of the bolt holes so is there a way to have them repaired or am i just SOL? Did your valve cover crack? Actually I think you are SOL. Good luck being SOL:rolleyes: Quote
makkelsay Posted March 4, 2009 Author Report Posted March 4, 2009 well i guess they will become wall art:mad: good thing i had some crappy summmit chrome valve covers around Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 Question is why did it crack? their must have been some gasket or something under it. is it on the top or bottom? might be able to tig it back together. Quote
makkelsay Posted March 4, 2009 Author Report Posted March 4, 2009 i put a valve cover gasket under it am i not supposed too on aluminum valve covers? it cracked near the bolt hole near the intake and looks like its fubar...ill take it to my machinist tomorrow to see for sure Quote
mackster Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 i put a valve cover gasket under itam i not supposed too on aluminum valve covers? it cracked near the bolt hole near the intake and looks like its fubar...ill take it to my machinist tomorrow to see for sure My guess will be that It was over-tighten a bit too much. and it wasnt seated right. . . .hope you can save it. try not to be S.O.L. BTW you are making a superb progress on it. . . . Quote
makkelsay Posted March 4, 2009 Author Report Posted March 4, 2009 oh yeah anyone have advice on getting exhaust studs out? i need to get the remaining 3 out to replace em with arp bolts 1 of em broke off and im currently drilling and tapping it...oh how fun:mad: Quote
Fireball Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 Try welding a nut over the stud, the heat usually looses the stud and the nut is easier to wrench also Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 Your supposed to go foward not backwards !! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 the cracking of the valve cover (any cast aluminum valve cover) is just inattention to detail in the fact that brawn was used instead of a torque wrench...IF..you should get lucky and get the item repaired..I would suggest use of rubber coated cork gaskets and using know torque value and sequence of tighetening from the center out...one should also recheck this value after a few heat cylces...and before the question comes up what is the torque vlaue..use that listed for the generic size hardware per torque chart and I believe the size in question is that of 1/4 x 20....go by this and you cannot go wrong..these values listed in torque chart per size and TPI is great information..only in use of torqe angle bolts will this differ..but then again the design of the torque per yield is different...pay attention to grade of bolt..and if there is no grade marking..be sure they are junk common hardware bolts that should not be on an automobile..use of grade 5 and better is recommended with the actual specific application being the final guide... Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 'Nother thing don't use anything bigger than a 1/4 " ratchet ( keeps the king kong factor down) Quote
makkelsay Posted March 5, 2009 Author Report Posted March 5, 2009 I didn't king kong it sheesh And like I said I didn't use a ton of might on em. But either way I've got some chrome ones on there now I got the frame adapters made and welded in place on the frame and might be macking some motor mounts tomorrow if the stock ones have to much angle for our liking...and yes we test fit but I'm still not convinced I like the angle the cushions sit at Quote
makkelsay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Posted March 7, 2009 PROGRESSSSSSSSSS so it took most of the day to make motor mounts and get the engine in driver side mount is a modified stock mount and the pass is from scratch! the pass side will need some trimming once i get the control arms back on transmission is hopefully going in tomorrow and the engine is pretty much in so im pretty happy so far Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 7, 2009 Report Posted March 7, 2009 Them are some fine looking exhaust manifolds;) Don't forget, to be a true Mopar the motor has to sit off to the passenger side!! Speedway has some nice biscuit style mounts for cheap that work great. I can almost here it cranking over!!! Quote
makkelsay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Posted March 7, 2009 Its got speedways universal cushions between the mounts and it sits an inch to the pass side... Soooo check and check Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 7, 2009 Report Posted March 7, 2009 I just noticed the small holes under the exhaust, make sure to test them to make sure they don't go to a smog pump rail, blow a little air in one and see where it goes. drill, tap and plug them if necessary. Quote
PatS.... Posted March 7, 2009 Report Posted March 7, 2009 Looking good so far. I have an observation re this pic...it looks to me like there might be some interference with the upper "A" frame of the suspension. Might be something to check before you get too far along. The "A" frame sticks out from the 4 frame bolts a fair bit and it also needs room to go up and down. Quote
makkelsay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Posted March 7, 2009 Yeah I noticied that after I got it all together But I don't have my front suspension on hand so it'll stick out for now but I plan on cutting it down and if I have to make a new mount Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.