Truck engine 'restore'

[pflaming]

Now working on the engine that came with the truck. The head was off, was told it ran hot so they parked it. It is cleaning up quite nicely, a head is being squared up for installation on Saturday. Need to put in one valve, then will do a compression check. Did a little cleaning on the block, just hated to work on a dirty block. Only put a couple of hours into it, came out ok considering the small amount of time spent.

Question: Do I connect the starter directly to a battery and pull the lever? Or do I need some other components. How secure should I 'mount' the engine to rotate it? Now it is just 'standing' on steel horse saws, nothing clamped down.

Thank you regarding the head gasket, was wondering if the old one would work. If I get any kind of favorable compression test, I will carefully put the other engine in storage.

Wish me luck!!!

[MBF]

Nice progress! I'd set it on the ground and block it so it is supported by the ears on the bellhousing, with another block in the front so it isn't sitting on the oil pan. The negative lead will go to the post on the starter switch with the positive ground to one of the bolts on the engine (you can use the starter mounting bolts). When you get it running don't goose it or she'll try to flip herself over from the torque. If you're going to run it for awhile you may want to have a garden hose running into the block insteat of setting up a radiator. Nothing like hearing them come back to life the first time. Good luck-keep us posted. Mike

[Don Coatney]

I did my initial compression check after rebuild with my engine sitting on my

work bench. I then built a running stand out of wood and ran my engine for

about 10 hours prior to installing it in the car.

[MBF]

My BAD! I thought you were going to try to do a test run-sorry-didn't realize you were just checking compression! Wiring in the same though.

[brian hood]

Hey,

The negative side of the battery goes to the starter if you are using a 6v positive ground. The positive side is hooked up to the engine ground. I hope this helps.

Brian

[pflaming]

Don and Brian: Thank you!!!! Don the pictures really help. I took the clutch and brake pedals off, NOW, since the 'dog house' is off, I may just put the engine back in the frame. Might not be much more work than securing it some other way. Did not quite understand the HAMB notes EXCEPT the part to consider using a HAND HELD gauge to avoid making problems.

Going to use the head gasket that came out. It is a 'copper' gasket with no tears or "burn throughs". Ordering a gasket set and motor mounts today. I think I will call VPW first.

[Young Ed]

To help with sealing we sprayed silver engine paint on both sides of the used gasket when it was installed. Dad actually ran that car around with that used gasket and it never failed. Was just a beater car he eventually parted out. Once you get this one going good you'll want to upgrade to a new gasket

[Don Coatney]

Did not quite understand the HAMB notes EXCEPT the part to consider using a HAND HELD gauge to avoid making problems.

What did you not understand? The screw in compression tester fitting was too long. When the engine starter motor engaged to spin the engine, the exhaust valve opened it made contact with the compression tester fitting causing the engine timing gear to shatter.

[pflaming]

Don, I did understand that and that is what I was referring to. Will get a hand held gauge. In a post a while back someone explained that the valve is kept in by one of two means, one of which consists of two little 'wedges'. It appears that is how mine are. I have the compression tool, now need to figure out how to get those 'wedges' out. I would guess, after the spring is compressed then a good side cutter pliers may get a hold on the pieces and they pull out. I recall they are held in by the spring as it drops down over them, not sure about that.

Question: One valve and spring is missing on the 'original' engine. I am going to rob one from the 'blue' engine. Can I rob the valve guide as well? Going to call VPW, will ask them also.

pf

[Young Ed]

Once you lift the spring with the compressor tool the keepers should come right out. Use a magnet to fetch them. Also for future note if you are doing this on an engine thats assembled put rags in the oil holes so you can't drop the keepers into the oil pan.

[tinlizzy]

Don where did you get that fancy dual exhaust? Looks like to flanges on the same manifold. Did you make it yourself?

Lee

[Don Coatney]

Don where did you get that fancy dual exhaust? Looks like to flanges on the same manifold. Did you make it yourself?

Lee

That is a George Asche manifold.

[Don Coatney]

Can I rob the valve guide as well?

Valve guides are a one time use item. They are still available new. Installing a used valve using a valve seat used by another valve is not a good practice unless you grind the used valve and used valve seat so they are both "refreshed".

[pflaming]

Engine is going together: Cylinders and pistons look good; added new bolts, tapped the holes and cleaned the holes with air hose; used the old gasket, looks good; installed the head and torqued it down.

Observations: Check all value setttings, they were 13 / 17 consistent so left them alone;takes small fingers to install the valve hold, so glad I had a rag in the base; the head has "washers" molded in. Can't figure out why some were bolts and others were bolt stubs with nuts. I used all bolts, is that OK.

Went to do the compression test after dinner and discovered I did'nt have any battery cables. Also noticed that Don's picture is from a car not a truck, am I correct on that. My starter has a lever, not a switch.

Compression test next then I will know if I have an engine that might run or just a cleaned up block!!!!

Didn't do anything to the valves, taking a small risk there.

I trust I am not boring anyone, just cataloging the 're'birth of an old engine and welcome such valuable tips like, put a cloth below those valves, and timely pictures and tolerances.

[Don Coatney]

I must assume you installed the oil pan and filled it with oil. You can

install a gauge to check your oil pressure as pictured.

[pflaming]

I saw that guage in your previous picture. Will it register oil pressure just by motoring with the starter? I was going to put oil and heat guages on when I got ready to 'start' it up. Looks like you mounted that oil gauge with some type of short pipe and elbo arrangement.

Thank you for your input, it really is valuable to me. Now if I could just get rid of the new back pains!!!! Guess I may have to let up a bit after I do the compression test, got a four tablet Ibporfin sore back, not used to being a full time mechanic!!!!

[Don Coatney]

I saw that guage in your previous picture. Will it register oil pressure just by motoring with the starter? (

Yes.

[Young Ed]

Having the truck starter makes it a little easier actually. Less wiring because no solenoid. You just push the arm on the starter.

[dbcooper292]

Hey I used that blue color too! The manual said silver but I couldn't picture it and figured grease spots would sit in it forever so I used a mopar blue from the 70s. Either I was onto something or we're both crazy! Looks great. I'm planning to run mine soon too but I'm just using the frame instead of setting it on blocks, and bodging together the rest like you're showing. It seems easy to me, if your frame is available, to set it on the mounts and pretty safe too.

db

[pflaming]

I didn't apply any sort of gasket sealer before I put the head on. Should I backtrack, remove the head and put a sealer on because if this thing gets a C- grade for better I going to try and start it? My carpel tunnel is really sore today, keeps my mind off my sore back! Just about forgot, any special kind of Oil? The cylinders probably still have a bit of laquer thinner in them, should I squirt some oil in the cylinders once I start motoring it? (Wish my new gasket set was here, ordered a set for APW) and what do you guys use for gasket sealer, (silver paint?) just the usual.

Finally who or what is HAMB?

[Young Ed]

That head is only temporary right? At this point just leave it. If you get compression it should be good enough to see if it runs. Oil down the cylinders is a good idea. If you get a oil can with a flex tube you can shoot some towards the pistons. Beyond that I run reg 10w40 in my flatheads

[pflaming]

Yes, the head gasket is temp. I guess if I get a C- result, then an good gasket and sealer might make it better. I'm thinking to do the Bonami (snake oil) treatment if the test is C- and see how much improvement I can get w/o doing a valve job. A valve job is tedious work and I'm a hammer kind of mechanic. Thankyou on the oil, will get a oil can and squirt some in each cylinder as well.

Still haven't found HAMB

[Young Ed]

HAMB is another message board like this one. The message about the broken timing gear was a post on the HAMB. I don't think the bonami thing is for valves its more of a poor piston ring fix.

[pflaming]

Good to know, (Bon Ami is for rings) compression is the result between the rings and the valves, wrote that for me to remember. Noted this morning that there are three places where oil lines can be attached to the block. One on each end and one in the middle where I think the oil filter goes

California guys, anything I need to know regarding CA emmissions? Seems old cars are currently exempt if they are 'stock'. Am I correct. Need to keep that in mind.

[Young Ed]

You are getting there. Keep reading and playing. You are obviously addicted like the rest of us